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Mk6 R clutch issue?

Rob_d91

New member
Hello everyone, this is my first post here and I’m looking forward to having joined your community. I tried searching through threads for info but I’m not too great at navigating the site and couldn’t find much details. Last year I came across a M/T carbon steel 6R at my regular VW dealership having maintenance done on my MK7 GTi and it being a dream car from my past, I couldn’t pass it up. With 70k miles on the new R, I immediately changed the Haldex fluid and had a LiquiMoly oil change. I’ve had it several months now with no notable issues aside from the occasional inconsistent clutch feeling, but a few pumps and it was fine. It’s been that way since I got it. Now last night at 76k miles I was backing out of the driveway and when I went into 1st it was stuck in reverse. Let up on the clutch, and it stayed on the floor. I shut the engine off and physically pulled the clutch back up. Put the car in N and started engine. Pumped the clutch back up and good to go. I get home from the store and after doing a K turn (using reverse again) going into 1st, the clutch stuck to the floor mostly but came back up about 1/4 of the way. Clutch engagement was very strange. Started it up today and it was fine again until using reverse then the clutch issues stayed for longer, say about 1-2 min of driving I had to pull the clutch up with my foot and the engagements felt very unidentifiable and different. Some slipping occurred and some quick engagements, obviously all unintended as I was babying the car and doing my best to manipulate the vehicle smoothly. For reference I’m 30 and have owned VWs and Audis most of my life, all manual transmissions. I also have some, but very low, track time. What do you guys think is going on here? My guess is bad slave cylinder but from what I’ve learned, that is essentially the TOB which is pretty much a clutch. Wondering if this is my “well shit it’s time for a southbend” moment ... thanks in advance for any comments.
 

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Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion

torga

Autocross Champion
Sounds like you've either got air in the system, or your slave cylinder is going out -- those two issues are not necessarily mutually exclusive. You're on the right track with your troubleshooting.
 

Rob_d91

New member
Thanks for the reply’s guys. Upon further inspection I’ve found there to be a minimal, yet identifiable, amount of wetness on-top of my shifter bushings at the top of the trans. The engine and bay are very clean and dry so this was an easy spot. Not sure if this indicates more of a TOB/slave issue or not, to my knowledge air in the lines wouldn’t create this.
 

Rob_d91

New member
Update: I chatted with my local euro specialty shop (island sport works in Brick NJ) they confirmed it’s certainly the TOB. (No seepage near the bleeder block or the master and pedal sticking to the floor can only indicate either those 2 or failed slave/TOB. We ordered a Stage 2 SouthBend Daily clutch kit with single mass flywheel conversion, metal TOB, and new rear main seal. Total cost to install will be around $2,400. Labor is $890. Seems fair. But for now, get a load of my new manually operated clutch setup until the car goes to the shop next Wednesday. It’s a synthetic strap wrapped tightly around the pedal and torch melted to itself, with a bike tire inter tube slice stretched tightly around the pedal for grip and rigidity. Ha. VWs always bring out your creativity
 

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Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion
I'm just like I hope this dudes commute is super short but he will probably come back saying he drives 30 miles each way stop and go city traffic 😂
 

Rob_d91

New member
😂😂 it’s only about 12 miles, half highway, half stop n go. The pull strap isn’t amazing tho. It doesn’t solve the issue of the wildly inconsistent engagement points but it does enable me to pump the clutch back up a few times for 1-2 nice engagements before sinking again. I can rev match shift if I’m rolling even tho it must be bad for the trans in some way, but we’ll see how the stop n go part plays out ..
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion
but we’ll see how the stop n go part plays out ..

Heh, good luck man. It would be awful/hilarious if you get pulled over and a cop sees that set up. Imagine trying to explain it lol
 

torga

Autocross Champion
This is the ingenuity we all strive for. Built, not bought.
 

Dynastar

New member
Funny enough, this just happened to me as well on Thurs (slave cylinder). It is now in the shop. They have to pull the transmission and the mech says I might as well change out the clutch as it will need it soon anyway. So what is the recommended clutch? I am Stage II, but fairly easy on the clutch
 

Rob_d91

New member
Love the comments 😂 Cars back and feeling better than ever. The clutch master cylinder was apparently to blame. Replaced with a new OEM unit. However, I still went ahead and still had a SouthBend Stage 2 Daily clutch pack installed with the updated “quiet” single mass flywheel conversion. The rear main seal and clutch fluid lines were all replaced as well. Total $3,093. Car feels great, loving the heavy pedal. Thanks for all the replies guys 👍🏼
 

Rob_d91

New member
Funny enough, this just happened to me as well on Thurs (slave cylinder). It is now in the shop. They have to pull the transmission and the mech says I might as well change out the clutch as it will need it soon anyway. So what is the recommended clutch? I am Stage II, but fairly easy on the clutch
SouthBend Stage 2 Daily. Good for 400+. Worth the $$$ on such an important component
 
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