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My R is now a DUMP TRUCK after SB Stage 2 Daily...

Rob_d91

New member
Had a master/slave failure a few weeks ago (89k miles) and decided to have the SB stage 2 daily SMF “quiet” version installed same time. Total for clutch pack, rear main, master, pedal bushings and a power mirror switch: $3,184. About 200 gentle break in miles later and I decided to give it some low rpm throttle (stock tune) and the thing turned into a tractor for a couple seconds while pulling normally in 5th gear 1800-2300 rpm. Really aggressive NVH each time I start to build low rpm boost. I’ve had poly engine mounts in mk5 r32 and poly dog bone/engine mounts in mk6 gti and this felt similar to throttling those cars but I’m with factory mounts. I’ve read everything from the SMF is normal sounding with high gear lash noise and NVH, to there must be something wrong. I can’t seem to get a good idea of wether or not this is ok. Hoping others with similar experience can chime in. Thanks 👍🏼
 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
Welcome to life with a lightweight flywheel. A Fluidampr will help smooth out some of the vibrations, but you're stuck with the rattle.
 

Rob_d91

New member
I went for a ride with the local euro performance shop owner who said it sounds like every single one he’s ever done. I ordered the fluidampr only because of the threads I saw about the harshness on synchros. NVH is fine with me as long as it’s not causing excessive wear. Thanks for the replies guys
 

torga

Autocross Champion
I think you're gonna be surprised at just how much the Fluidampr does for NVH -- it really pulls its weight.
 

Rob_d91

New member
I think you're gonna be surprised at just how much the Fluidampr does for NVH -- it really pulls its weight.
I’m looking forward to it. It’s still not gone in yet but it’s at the shop. I prioritized other mods after hearing that the chatter is fine. By this I mean it’s been on stands in the driveway for a week now with me working on it a little each day. Went with a different intake, chose the CTS cold air with the wet filter. Also installed H&R MK6 R specific springs which I got from f’n tire rack on sale for $208 shipped. Replaced some parts that I stripped with old triple squares I bought like 10 years ago that got dremel’d and die grinder’d off. One being the top nut for the strut mount. Got cross threaded somehow. How, idk. That was fun to get off but it’s just metal so it can all go away with the flip of a switch. Had fun with sparks for the first time in probably 2 years. To be honest I like the NVH from the clutch and so I got a CTS dogbone ordered. New strut mounts an sway bar links. Bolts. Still breaking in the clutch bc I drive the daily every day but once I hit the break in mileage, the CTS down pipe is going in. Ordered thru the shop thinking it would be a b**** because of the “AWD” but I’ll be doing it myself now. Currently chasing a strange noise after the spring install so I’ll be posting updates to that thread when I figure out how I’m definitely to blame. Ha.
 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
Getting the stock downpipe out is kind of a bitch because it's all one piece from the turbo to the catback - you'll have to disconnect the front end of the propshaft, so make sure you have new bolts for that too. getting the new one in isn't too bad. Just make sure after putting the new downpipe in place, you reconnect the propshaft coupler before tightening the dp flange to the turbo. I forget exactly why, but I remember not being able to do it with the downpipe bolted to the turbo.

Also, I highly recommend installing a 42 Draft shift cable support bracket while you're in there, to keep the shift cables from rubbing on the new downpipe and burning. It's cheap insurance, if nothing else.
 
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