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Oxygen sensors shot, worth it to replace?

DanSan

meerkat
nah mine seemed to stay on until the downpipe basically fell apart. once i put it back together those 2 codes went away.

i mean i would clear the codes, within 50 miles or 2 cycles of the ignition they came back
 

Lt_matt405

New member
Ok now im kind of stuck... Yesterday I cleared out the cel light and as soon as I started my car it came back on. I checked
the engine codes again and it came up with 9. Well 4 but some repeated.

P0036 - Heated oxygen sensor Heated Control bank 1 sensor 2
P0042 - (same as P0036 but sensor 3)
P0043 - Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 3
P0138 - Oxygen sensor circuit high voltage

Are both sensors 2 and 3 bad or is there something actually wrong? I had the test pipe on for about 10 months and just put the high flow cat back on and switched from stage 2 to stock programing. I have 2 spacers on sensors 2 and 3 and I think there is one on the first one.
 

v.b

Ready to race!
Ok now im kind of stuck... Yesterday I cleared out the cel light and as soon as I started my car it came back on. I checked
the engine codes again and it came up with 9. Well 4 but some repeated.

P0036 - Heated oxygen sensor Heated Control bank 1 sensor 2
P0042 - (same as P0036 but sensor 3)
P0043 - Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 3
P0138 - Oxygen sensor circuit high voltage

Are both sensors 2 and 3 bad or is there something actually wrong? I had the test pipe on for about 10 months and just put the high flow cat back on and switched from stage 2 to stock programing. I have 2 spacers on sensors 2 and 3 and I think there is one on the first one.
Did you already make sure the sensors are physically intact? Driven through any puddles lately? Oh and you should not have a spacer on the "first" sensor - the one right on the turbo.
 

Lt_matt405

New member
Did you already make sure the sensors are physically intact? Driven through any puddles lately? Oh and you should not have a spacer on the "first" sensor - the one right on the turbo.
yeah I didn't think so and im in PA and there's puddles all over the place. lol and when I changed from testpipe to cat they just looked like they had a little carbon buildup but I blew out the spacers and put everything back on.
 

v.b

Ready to race!
yeah I didn't think so and im in PA and there's puddles all over the place. lol and when I changed from testpipe to cat they just looked like they had a little carbon buildup but I blew out the spacers and put everything back on.
Pretty sure water in the tail pipe means sensor death. Usually the heater circuit error is indicative of that. You may need to replace them. You can use the universal sensor that bosch makes. Where in PA are you? I have a spare one that I can sell you, if you want.
 

Lt_matt405

New member
Pretty sure water in the tail pipe means sensor death. Usually the heater circuit error is indicative of that. You may need to replace them. You can use the universal sensor that bosch makes. Where in PA are you? I have a spare one that I can sell you, if you want.
Lehigh valley but I already got a center and rear sensor off ecstuning. But thanks for the offer! I figured I would need them at some point anyway. I just hope this works!
 

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
Or you can save even more by buying the universal one for $50.
Does it have the correct harness? Connector, length, cable trees, casing, etc?

Not opposed to trying it, just want to know what I'd be getting into.
 

v.b

Ready to race!
Does it have the correct harness? Connector, length, cable trees, casing, etc?

Not opposed to trying it, just want to know what I'd be getting into.
You reuse the original harness, they give you everything you need to do it. No soldering required - you splice it in with their connectors. Worked fine for me - the sensor itself looks exactly like the OEM sensor also (at least for our cars).
I'll take a pic for you next time I'm in my garage.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
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