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R OEM Down Pipe Removal

bebersol

New member
Here's the way I did it. Some of this I learned by trial and error.

Golf R, OEM Downpipe removal

Top of car
1. Remove engine cover/ air filter housing
2. Remove O2 sensor (22mm wrench)
3. Remove battery and case
4. Remove 2 engine side bolts attaching DP to turbo easiest to reach using a long extender from battery space. (17MM socket)
5. Remove remaining upper bolt attaching DP to turbo, set O2 sensor shield aside.

Under car
1. Loosen last bolt securing the DP to the turbo housing.
2. Remove the 3, 12-point bolts securing the driveshaft to the transaxle. (I think this was an 11mm socket)
3. Remove the shield from under the Rt passenger side of the car (10mm)
4. Remove the shied from under the drive shaft center U joint.
5. Remove the small cross brace under rear of exhaust
6. Loosen the bolts on the sleeve where the down pipe connects to the muffler section.
7. Check to see if pipe is loose
8. Remove the 2nd o2 sensor
9. Pull down on drive shaft center U joint and remove the front of the drive shaft from the drive hub
10. Push drive shaft as far to passenger side as possible
11. Remove the last bolt holding the DP to the turbo
12. Take your time and finagle the downpipe out, you may bend a little shielding but it’s easy to fix.

Install new DP.
• Torque the turbo bolts from 15 to 20 Flbs, remember to install the O2 sensor shield.
• Torque o2 sensors from 12 to 15 Flbs
• Torque Drive Shaft from 40 – 45 Flbs
Notes:
If you DP comes with lock nuts their a total pain in the butt, I’d recommend regular nuts with loctite or locking washers for a much easier install
 

rangomango

New member
Awesome write up, even a few years later! I used this to swap the downpipe on my MK6 Golf R and have a couple questions plus additional tips.

3. Remove battery and case
4. Remove 2 engine side bolts attaching DP to turbo easiest to reach using a long extender from battery space. (17MM socket)
Definitely much easier with the battery and tray removed to access the top engine side nut. I was able to reach the further two nuts with a deep 17mm and 3/8 ratchet.

I could not access the engine side lower bolt, regardless of the combinations of extensions and wiggle joints used. I ended up getting it when I was under the car.

2. Remove the 3, 12-point bolts securing the driveshaft to the transaxle. (I think this was an 11mm socket)
This is a 10mm 12 point. I recommend getting new driveshaft bolts, however reusing them once should be ok. It makes it easier if a friend can help put the car in and out of gear as you spin the drivers side wheel to get access to each bolt.

3. Remove the shield from under the Rt passenger side of the car (10mm)
Do you have a picture of this shield? My car didnt have anything on the RT passenger side. It didn't look like anything was missing

4. Remove the shied from under the drive shaft center U joint.
This holds the driveshaft up, so you may want to have it supported by a jack before removing this shield.

I also couldn't get the shield out with the stock downpipe there. I let it dangle as I wiggled the driveshaft around.

Is there a better way to remove the clamps that slide on the screw?

6. Loosen the bolts on the sleeve where the down pipe connects to the muffler section.
7. Check to see if pipe is loose
I recommend sliding the clamp to the downpipe section so it can drop down easier.

9. Pull down on drive shaft center U joint and remove the front of the drive shaft from the drive hub
I found this a bit difficult, but it will eventually clear the shaft that sticks out of the transfer case.

10. Push drive shaft as far to passenger side as possible
Mine wouldn't stay so I used a strap to hold it over.

12. Take your time and finagle the downpipe out, you may bend a little shielding but it’s easy to fix.
Before you pull the downpipe out i recommend removing the two 13mm bolts that hold the bracket for the grommets for the downpipe hangers. Much easier to remove once off the car.

Install new DP.
• Torque the turbo bolts from 15 to 20 Flbs, remember to install the O2 sensor shield.
• Torque o2 sensors from 12 to 15 Flbs
• Torque Drive Shaft from 40 – 45 Flbs
This was super helpful because the info is seriously spread all over!

One other tip is don't tighten the new downpipe bolts until after the driveshaft is installed. I did and couldn't get the driveshaft over the shaft in the transfer case because the drive shaft was hitting the new downpipe. Loosing it all the way allowed enough wiggle room to get the driveshaft in. I have a cast APR downpipe if that helps.
 

bebersol

New member
Awesome write up, even a few years later! I used this to swap the downpipe on my MK6 Golf R and have a couple questions plus additional tips.



Definitely much easier with the battery and tray removed to access the top engine side nut. I was able to reach the further two nuts with a deep 17mm and 3/8 ratchet.

I could not access the engine side lower bolt, regardless of the combinations of extensions and wiggle joints used. I ended up getting it when I was under the car.


This is a 10mm 12 point. I recommend getting new driveshaft bolts, however reusing them once should be ok. It makes it easier if a friend can help put the car in and out of gear as you spin the drivers side wheel to get access to each bolt.



Do you have a picture of this shield? My car didnt have anything on the RT passenger side. It didn't look like anything was missing



This holds the driveshaft up, so you may want to have it supported by a jack before removing this shield.

I also couldn't get the shield out with the stock downpipe there. I let it dangle as I wiggled the driveshaft around.

Is there a better way to remove the clamps that slide on the screw?



I recommend sliding the clamp to the downpipe section so it can drop down easier.



I found this a bit difficult, but it will eventually clear the shaft that sticks out of the transfer case.



Mine wouldn't stay so I used a strap to hold it over.



Before you pull the downpipe out i recommend removing the two 13mm bolts that hold the bracket for the grommets for the downpipe hangers. Much easier to remove once off the car.



This was super helpful because the info is seriously spread all over!

One other tip is don't tighten the new downpipe bolts until after the driveshaft is installed. I did and couldn't get the driveshaft over the shaft in the transfer case because the drive shaft was hitting the new downpipe. Loosing it all the way allowed enough wiggle room to get the driveshaft in. I have a cast APR downpipe if that helps.
Thank you, all really good additions to the DIY!
 
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