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Rear main seal replacement on Jackstands!

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
So a couple weeks ago my 20-30k old PCV failed and took my rear main seal. Started doing research and decided to tackle this job myself in my smallish garage on jack stands. There is practically zero info on doing this job on a 2.0TSI online, but I had Elsawin and was able to use some TDI DSG guides online and get it done. Pretty much same process. This is the first time i've ever removed a transmission from a car.

Picked up a Harbor freight engine support bar and trans jack which are making this job go super smoothly. The DSG is bulky and heavy but it came out pretty easily with the subframe out. I was also finally able to take care of snapped stud I had in the turbo manifold flange by drilling it out with all the room I had.

Also decided to replace the 120k DMF with a new $300 LUK I picked up off ebay. Actually old one seemed in pretty good shape, only about 10mm of play which is about the same as the new one had.

I also decided to get the newest rev G oem rear main seal which seals inwards towards the crank case instead of out. You have to be very careful when installing this seal so it seated properly. I found the old RMS completely detached from the backing plate and was just free floating on the crankshaft.

If you're ever thinking about tackling this job, dont be afraid its totally doable on jack stands and i'm learning a ton on the way.

















 

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
Did you remove the subframe through personal choice or because you were doing on jack stands? I’m sure it wasn’t removed when my RMS was changed, but that could be because it was done on a lift! I too had the newest OEM revision fitted which was fitted using the fitting sleeve due to the seal pointing inward and it was fine for a while but unfortunately this seal also started leaking a few thousand miles later, it was more “weeping” this time to be fair but this was the final straw with the MK6 which I traded in a week after spotting it! I hope yours lasts far longer, I think if I had been in the US and had been able to get hold of one easy I’d have fitted a billet iAbed version.


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BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
As far as I know the 6MT is much lighter and smaller and can be easily removed without the subframe dropping. The DSG is like 200lbs and bulky and more difficult to remove. I know there's a few tricks to get it out with the subframe still on but its not too bad to remove and gives you tons more room to easily drop it
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Also yeah the sleeve is the tool for the old style RMS. There's actually a new tool set for the new RMS and it's like $150-$200 to buy. Not many people really know about this yet or even know about the new revision seal difference from what I could tell when I was doing research. If you're careful you can get it on without it or use the old sleeve tool or a bottle as sort of a guide to get it on properly.

I decided against the IABED after reading a few issues of people getting leaks and conflicting online info on how to install it properly and I didn't want to deal with that headache.
 

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
Also yeah the sleeve is the tool for the old style RMS. There's actually a new tool set for the new RMS and it's like $150-$200 to buy. Not many people really know about this yet or even know about the new revision seal difference from what I could tell when I was doing research. If you're careful you can get it on without it or use the old sleeve tool or a bottle as sort of a guide to get it on properly.

I decided against the IABED after reading a few issues of people getting leaks and conflicting online info on how to install it properly and I didn't want to deal with that headache.



We used the newest revision seal and sleeve, during your research you would have likely seen my posts about this RMS, the expensive fitting tool is for a different RMS, VW tool T20097 is the correct one, it’s not expensive!


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BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
This is the new tool im referring to: T10122C
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...rear-main-seal-assembly-tool-kit/t10122c~oev/

Also heres a video of it being used:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-AqkeacwTY

There's some extra parts in the tool kit tho compared what was shown in the video but not sure if those are supposed to be used for other models. It all seems pretty new and I had nothing in my version of Elsa about it.

I'm sure T20097 can be used if you are careful though, also saw pics of Russians using cut off soda bottles lol. Technically you can just slip it on freehand too if youre careful.
 

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
Apologies about the poor quality of the ETKA pictures, ignore the fact they say Passat as the latest mk6 ETKA pages are the same.












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Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
Interesting. Appreciate the pics



No problem! Hopefully they serve to reassure you that you fitted it correctly rather than show you didn’t, it’s real easy to invert the larger seal if the instructions are not followed to the letter!


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MrFancypants

Autocross Champion
OP: good job!

If I were a professional mechanic (I am not) and I've performed this job a hundred times the subframe would stay in, because this is the most efficient way to do it. I've watched videos of pros doing this really fast and the subframe never comes out.

If I had a lift I'd consider leaving the subframe in because the lift gives me a lot of room to work.

If I'm doing this with jack stands, as an amateur, I'm pulling the subframe because I can afford to spend an extra hour on the job and that extra hour might be earned back as the extra space will make it easier to get the transmission bolted back to the engine.

The subframe isn't all that difficult to deal with, IMO. If you're brave enough to pull the transmission out of your car the subframe is nothing to be afraid of. For alignment.... if you have subframe collars your camber shouldn't be affected, and if you have a pair of toe plates getting your alignment back takes just a few minutes.
 

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
This is the new tool im referring to: T10122C
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...rear-main-seal-assembly-tool-kit/t10122c~oev/

Also heres a video of it being used:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-AqkeacwTY

There's some extra parts in the tool kit tho compared what was shown in the video but not sure if those are supposed to be used for other models. It all seems pretty new and I had nothing in my version of Elsa about it.

I'm sure T20097 can be used if you are careful though, also saw pics of Russians using cut off soda bottles lol. Technically you can just slip it on freehand too if youre careful.



The tool shown in your video is a two part (non official) version of the VW tool T20097,

Here is a video of the tool you linked to, as I said it’s for a completely different seal, for the W8 amongst others I believe!

https://youtu.be/eMKFtGtMFEA






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BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
I'm stuck right now on the job, as I accidentally put the flywheel on while forgetting to put the intermediate plate on so I wasted 8 TTY flywheel bolts lmao. Waiting for new ones to come in.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
I'm stuck right now on the job, as I accidentally put the flywheel on while forgetting to put the intermediate plate on so I wasted 8 TTY flywheel bolts lmao. Waiting for new ones to come in.
Haha I did the same but luckily realized my mistake when they were only hand tight!

Great work getting that DSG out and the RMS replaced! FWIW I installed an iAbed billet RMS 26k miles ago and haven't had any issues. I have some pics and tips in my build thread. There's a link in my signature.
 

Allchokedup

Autocross Champion
Nice man, what a chore! Since I upset with my car one day I just pulled the whole engine as you might know. After that I'm not really worried what happens to it. I dont like having to work on it but it's all do-able right in the driveway. Hell, had to pull my turbo out of the top of my car as I couldnt get axle bolt off. Enough time it'll get done!
 

zrickety

The Fixer
Congrats, definitely a doable job. However, I would have splurged a few bucks for the iabed billet RMS...no special tool to buy either. The factory seal is kind of a joke when you compare it to others.
 
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