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Rebuilding a 2.0 TSI after timing failure at 173k *ON A BUDGET* (less than $1k spent) - And Then Balance Shafts 2 Years Later

zrickety

The Fixer
Machine shop finished yesterday. They even cleaned the ports! I provided the parts, they did the intake guides and valve job for $215 out the door. Supposed to rain here tomorrow, but I'm going to start reassembly in the morning.
IMG_20200110_152803796.jpg

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GeorgiaBII

Drag Race Newbie
Those are after the machine shop was done? Wow they did a crappy job cleaning up the head. I've never gotten one back that looked like that. A true machine shop will give you back a like new assembly.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
Those are after the machine shop was done? Wow they did a crappy job cleaning up the head. I've never gotten one back that looked like that. A true machine shop will give you back a like new assembly.
They did what I asked. I suppose if I had paid more, I might have expected more. I can clean the gasket surfaces myself.
Nothing against you, GeorgiaBll, but I have a hard time finding anyone in this state that does a good job.
 

GeorgiaBII

Drag Race Newbie
Frank's head service in Griffin has always done top quality work. Also Carrollton automotive machine has an excellent rep. But you don't get cheap.
 

Roadrunner_GTI

Drag Racing Champion
I would have at least expected the machine shop to disassemble and hot tank the bare head and valves. Looking at the exhaust side of the combustion chamber, they didn't even bother cleaning off the carbon buildup. Not saying I dont believe the shop, but if they actually did perform a valve job the exhaust valves should look much cleaner. Unless they only performed a valve job on the intake side? ?

If you're not planning on resurfacing the head (which I'd highly recommend)...I would at least take a block of wood with some fine grit sandpaper to level the gasket surface. It won't be perfect, but it's better than doing nothing. Good luck.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
I only had them do the intake side...the exhaust valves were fine. The purpose of this thread is to show you can fix one of these motors on a budget. Sure, I could have got a reman head from VW and spent $9000 like someone posted in another thread. That's not the point.
 

Roadrunner_GTI

Drag Racing Champion
I only had them do the intake side...the exhaust valves were fine. The purpose of this thread is to show you can fix one of these motors on a budget. Sure, I could have got a reman head from VW and spent $9000 like someone posted in another thread. That's not the point.

I completely agree that it's not necessary to spend crazy money on a new parts when the old ones can be machined. To their detriment, I think much of the VW community thinks that complete assemblies should be replaced (cylinder heads, short blocks, etc). So I applaud you for going the reuse/rebuild route, it's definitely the path less traveled. With that said, I wanted to be fully transparent with exactly what machine work is needed to fully recondition a cylinder head. I would never recommend a valve job be performed on just the intake or exhaust valves. I'm not even sure how a machine shop would quote that TBH. The small cost increase to include the exhaust side is peanuts compared to removing the head again to have it done in the future. Likewise with resurfacing the deck surface of the head, especially given that it's aluminum and even more it's turbocharged. Will the car run if you don't do those things? Sure, maybe. Will it run well or long-term? Not likely. Again, I'm not judging the decisions you've made, I'm just clarifying for people that may look to this thread for guidance in the future.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
'Will it run well or long-term? Not likely.' Harsh words my friend. This isn't a car that was overheated, or had a leaking head gasket. It was running great, jumped time, and bent the intake valves. I have complete faith in the flatness of the head, if anything it matches the condition of the block. I could easily have spent hundreds more to 'fully recondition' the head. They were quoting me per valve, guide, etc.
I made a judgement call, not saying it won't bite me in the butt, but I have enough experience to feel good about it.

For anyone keeping track, the total cost at this point would be $941 (w/ oem head bolts).
I already had new fluids and filter on hand, I don't anticipate buying anything else.
I will edit the first post with a disclaimer.
Edit- updated total with valve guides ($86)
 
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GeorgiaBII

Drag Race Newbie
I'll just say this thread is an example of how to halfway repair the vehicle. I would not recommend doing this much work to only fix the absolute minimum. You have wasted an excellent opportunity here to be sure your engine's top end is in like new shape. Penny wise, pound foolish is the proper term for this.

What any competent mechanic would recommend would be the following.

Pull head and have it reconditioned. This will include replacing bent and broken parts, replacing any worn guides. Reconditioning all valves and seats. Chemically cleaning the head and checking for cracks. Mating surfaces will be checked for flatness, Cam bores will be check for warps (sadly common on these engines). New valve guide seals will be installed at this time.

New injector seals are a must

All wear item timing components would be replaced. This includes guides, chain, and tensioner. New crank seal will be installed and timing cover seals (RTV).

New spark plugs as well during assembly. Assembly will require new head gasket set, and cylinder head bolts.

While not required I would recommend a new intake manifold while it's apart unless it's fairly new. Common failure point on these vehicles and you've already got it apart.

Timing components are almost 700 dollars for this engine if you go back with OEM upgraded parts. I shudder to think how you are only at 800 right now...

I'm doing this exact same job for the exact same reason and have no intention of cutting the corners you are. I expect to spend about 1500 to 2000 to repair this car correctly.


After 20+ years experience repairing cars, trucks, and heavy equipment there is no way I would do what you are doing to my car or anybodies.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
LOL thanks for the tips. I have a parts list on the first page, which includes an oem manifold, oem tensioner, oem crank seal, and Febi chain. I have good experience with Febi parts. I've done 2 other intake manifolds and reused the injector seals, a little silicone spray goes a long way. The other parts are in good shape, or I would have bought them. I understand the VW community is OCD. You want to spend $2k, more power to you. Spend a little more, you can have another engine. I am putting in new plugs and R8 coils as well, I didn't list these as most people would reuse what they've got. I get a set of Denso double platinums for about $16. Let me add that this is an 09 that will have 200k miles this time next year. There is a point of diminishing returns. What you call half-assed or the bare minimum, is exactly what this engine needs.
Nothing more, nothing less.
 
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GeorgiaBII

Drag Race Newbie
What you call half-assed or the bare minimum, is exactly what this engine needs.
Nothing more, nothing less.

Your money. Your time.

I wouldn't do it half assed that way. 200k or not you have an excellent opportunity to extend the life of the car greatly. You declined it for a few hundred bucks.

Enjoy! I'm out.
 

zrickety

The Fixer

zrickety

The Fixer
So the saga continues. I was on call this weekend and of course work was busy.
If you've ever replaced an intake manifold, you may find chunks of plastic missing like this:
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All that flapper movement takes it's toll on the head. The aluminum actually wears down:
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This could potentially wreak havoc with fuel trims and cause driveability problems. I used JB weld and a razor blade to fill these spots. Wait overnight, and sand smooth with something flat. I used a speed square and 800 grit wet/dry. You'll be left with something like this:
IMG_20200113_153906960.jpg


A 3M body block with more 800 grit works great on the other head and block surfaces. You don't want to be aggressive, just get any crud that the gasket scraper missed. I like to clean afterward with rubbing alcohol. My next chance to work on the car is Thursday. Then it's the OEM head gasket and ARP studs...
 

Grabbit

Go Kart Champion
I made a judgement call, not saying it won't bite me in the butt, but I have enough experience to feel good about it.

At the end of the day as long as you can live with your decision, the rest is noise.


I'm doing this exact same job for the exact same reason and have no intention of cutting the corners you are. I expect to spend about 1500 to 2000 to repair this car correctly.

Some would argue spending roughly 20% of the value of a car for a DIY repair on a depreciating asset is a poor financial choice.
 

brat_burner

Autocross Champion
Head looks ok, I'm not gonna hate on any of that because I know it's a budget minded repair. Impossible to get the head surface looking like new unless it's been milled. Using any type of abrasive or polishing type wheel is pretty much not allowed by manufacturers. Any evidence of that could result in an instant debit of a warranty claim. Now they tell you to use a special gasket remover and a Friggin plastic razor blade.

I would point out that injector seals are listed as a mandatory replacement part. Not necessarily the o-rings but the teflon sealing rings. They aren't supposed to be exposed to atmosphere before installation. They should come in a sealed package and be used immediately. I would also like to point out that from my personal experience, this doesn't matter much.... lol. Left injectors out of GM's for days on end and put them right back in and never had a problem.
 
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