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Review - Shuenk TSI K03+ Turbo - Dyno

WalkerT

Ready to race!
Can you update us on how the unitronic stage 2 tune is with yall's new turbo?
I think Doug is going to run his car on the dyno with the Uni stg2. I tried to flash mine last night with my Uni connect cable and it says my account is no longer active! So until that gets fix I can’t run the tests on my car.
 

doug@frankenturbo

Turbos Galore
Travis -- I didn't know you had access to Unitronic's files. Do you need my help with getting your account status restored? Testing data on your car with the Uni Stg2 would be very informative.

Also, to the question about the extras we include, this turbo has a billet diverter valve sandwich plate that eliminates the plastic parts on the OEM diverter valve. This enhances the turbo's durability. It also adds a sporty "blow off" sound that we think our customers will appreciate.
 

mars2

Ready to race!
For the same kind of gain you could get a AUDI B8.5 CHRA from Melett and a Turbine housing from China 06H145702Q.
Like that you upgrade your IHI G6 GTI to a IHI Audi B8.5. You just keep your Compressor housing, the compressor wheel of the G6 GTI and AUDI B8.5 are the same.
This is 200% plug and play
The Audi B 8.5 as a IIHI JH5 with a bigger A/R than G6 GTI and a turbine that is 44mm exducer and 52mm inducer Mixed flow. Bigger than a KO4.
G6 GTI turbine is 41mm exducer/45mm inducer
A few guys proof that this give at least 25 WHP more. with a forge wastegate and 2psi more craving pressure you should be at 35 HP more.
You can also compare on APR B8.5 vs G6 GTI stage 2

The turbine I just put it as a proof of the size. You don't need it as you will already get that with the CHRA.

This will cost you about 250 Dollar

PS: I got build one like that but I also got my compressor housing milled to fit a AUDI C7 RS7 IHI JH5 ( same name)billet wheel 44mm inducer/58mm exducer extended tip 62mm.
With only 18.5 psi at 5800rpm I get 278G/S.
I guess my tuner will manage close to 290G/S with a bit more boost.
 
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WalkerT

Ready to race!
Thanks for the info but tearing down the IHI turbo housing and expecting it to be just a swap is not going to work.
Here is what my manifold looked like when I did a tear down inspection on it.
The exhaust side had multiple cracks and the housing is unusable.
So no swapping the CHRA on high mile old manifolds is not the best idea.
98B0C11B-3306-4A6B-83DB-E9674CEDC9CF.jpeg
 

mars2

Ready to race!
I got you but on what I propose you change Exhaust manifold ( with new waste gate door) and CHRA. SO the only part that you keep from your old turbo is the compressor housing and the waste gate actuator fi you don't want a Forge.
Come on manifold to CHRA is one screw it take 20 second to change. I did it so many time. A 5 year old Kid can do that.
Chra to Compressor housing take 5 minute max! If you have 2 left hand full off thumbs!!!

That Manifold had some serious heat trouble! To high EGT? Mine was not in this shape after 80000 miles stage 2

PS:the A4 B8 turbine can not fit in the G6 GTI exhaust manifold it's 3mm bigger on exducer and 7mm bigger on Inducer.
That's why you have to also buy a new manifold for a 90 Dollars

This one:
 

WalkerT

Ready to race!
You do you. I have done a couple turbo rebuilds on other platforms and I see your point. But I would not want to reuse any of the IHI parts. This is a bolt on solution with a full brand new assembly. New wastegate, new compressor housing, new n75, new manifold, CHRA, and new dv. Just makes more sense than trying to make something work in a used high mile housing.
 

mars2

Ready to race!
I 'm opposite to you.I'm a fan of recycling.
We have really to stop consuming our planet need it.
I only by recycle phone, computer.... Any time I can fix something it make me happy.
I love that Swedish laws that make your taxe's go down when you can proof that you fixed instead of buying new or bought recycle item's instead of new.

I don't see what can go wrong with an old Compressor housing if it is not damage. It's just aluminium with no stress. a new N75 and NEW DV are pretty cheap.
 

WalkerT

Ready to race!
Cost of your rebuild
CHRA £265 = $346 us
Manifold $90 + $90 shipping = $180 us
New DV = $76 + shipping
New n75 = $24 + shipping
New wastegate = $115 + shipping
That is ready $741 without some of the shipping. Plus you are still using the inferior IHI housing. And the Allie express manifold looks like garbage with casting material everywhere. Like it was made in a play dough press.
 

mars2

Ready to race!
CHRA is 118.48 Pound not 265 or we don't see the same thing? So 118 is today 150USD
I have a philosophy only change it if it fail.
Other wise you spend your life buying all kind of thing you don't need or going to doctor because you think you are sick. This is called hypochondria.
Some have Hypochondria for their car. Then you have to change your piston ring because they are old, your pinion in your gear box........................

So for me it's only
150 and 180 (90+90) that you really need. so 330. Sorry I forgot the freight.

Any way my point was not to fight with you. I just wanted to leave an other option for some who might be intrested.
I like a lot the K04 Ebay turbo thread on the B8 forum and I invite you to read it.
I went myself a different road doing a IHI hybrid thats is not far from a K04 by just implementing in it a RS7 wheel on a B8 CHRA and Manifold. Giving without tune 278G/S ( I'm still on my stage 2 for oem turbo, My tuner is too busy at te moment)
I do respect that you went a different way and feel it very intresting.
So long.
 

WalkerT

Ready to race!
I look forward to your before and after dyno’s.

My comparison was for someone to buy what you said vs buying this assembly to get the same result. This turbo does not have stock internals as it has an upgraded turbine and compressor wheel. So you act like you are know but clearly you don’t.

I wanted a bolt on solution and that is the point of the post.

Thx ?
 

1776dmc

New member
I think Doug is going to run his car on the dyno with the Uni stg2. I tried to flash mine last night with my Uni connect cable and it says my account is no longer active! So until that gets fix I can’t run the tests on my car.
Alright cool. I am curious as to how boost feels and the curve on the dyno.
 

Joe_Mama

Ready to race!
I 'm opposite to you.I'm a fan of recycling.
We have really to stop consuming our planet need it.
Great, so people who do proper mechanical repairs are now to blame for destroying our world. Give me a break. You probably reuse stretch bolts too because "eco-friendly".

You dont mix and match parts on a turbo replacement. It is like pulling the whole engine to do a timing chain and then you just reuse the old tensioner because recycling makes you feel good or whatever. Good luck with that, youre playing on borrowed time.
 

doug@frankenturbo

Turbos Galore
CHRA is 118.48 Pound not 265 or we don't see the same thing? So 118 is today 150USD

So for me it's only
150 and 180 (90+90) that you really need. so 330. Sorry I forgot the freight.

Any way my point was not to fight with you. I just wanted to leave an other option for some who might be intrested.
I like a lot the K04 Ebay turbo thread on the B8 forum and I invite you to read it.
I went myself a different road doing a IHI hybrid thats is not far from a K04 by just implementing in it a RS7 wheel on a B8 CHRA and Manifold. Giving without tune 278G/S ( I'm still on my stage 2 for oem turbo, My tuner is too busy at te moment)
I do respect that you went a different way and feel it very intresting.
So long.
mars2 brings up a couple relevant dynamics taking place in the aftermarket. First, there will always be people who want to source their own parts to cobble together a unique turbo. Is it cheaper than buying something complete and ready for use? Probably not, but the unique-factor has a value for some folks.

Secondly, and more importantly, the forum thread he links to is a powerful example of the challenges FrankenTurbo will face in the future: Chinese manufacturers offering cut-rate performance turbos direct to the US market. Our spinoff brand of Shuenk is meant to answer that challenge. We will be offering these products as inexpensively as possible and selling them direct to customers. Like the Chinese factories selling on Ebay, there is no room for a "middle man" markup. Basically the new normal for our market segment is selling at wholesale. As long as consumers gravitate to cheap pricing and little else, our budget brand of Shuenk answers that demand.

I will make at least an attempt at appealing to more than buyers' wallets, though. No Chinese company works to understand the market and offer innovative products as we do. And no Chinese manufacturer has even a basic understanding of how these cars operate. Technical support or advice? Forget that. You won't find any mention of seller support in that "Official Ebay K04" thread. And while no one there is willing to admit it, those turbos are unreliable and fail on their buyers very quickly.
 

zrickety

The Fixer
Yeah I don't care if the Chinese turbos were buy one get one free, I'd rather cobble a turbo together with used oem parts.
The quality control is just not there.
 

doug@frankenturbo

Turbos Galore
We've heard from more than one potential customer that the wastegates on the OEM turbos "rattle". They pointed me to this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl4AuMc8zfg

The person on the video is demonstrating a "fix" for the slop in the actuator rod/wastegate arm assembly. But rather than a clip to hold things together more firmly, there should be spring tension on that wastegate arm. The turbo in the video clearly does not have any spring preload applied to the wastegate valve (flapper). It spins loosely. How common is this fault? Our own turbos have a different actuator rod design that has an adjustable clevis, but nevertheless it's not common for our customers to have to re-tighten the preload over time.

Bottom line, that clip being shown in the video isn't fixing the underlying problem. A lack of preload on the wastegate valve will kill the turbo's responsiveness.

IHI Mk6 turbo wastegate arm.jpg
 

tofuD01

Ready to race!
We've heard from more than one potential customer that the wastegates on the OEM turbos "rattle". They pointed me to this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl4AuMc8zfg

The person on the video is demonstrating a "fix" for the slop in the actuator rod/wastegate arm assembly. But rather than a clip to hold things together more firmly, there should be spring tension on that wastegate arm. The turbo in the video clearly does not have any spring preload applied to the wastegate valve (flapper). It spins loosely. How common is this fault? Our own turbos have a different actuator rod design that has an adjustable clevis, but nevertheless it's not common for our customers to have to re-tighten the preload over time.

Bottom line, that clip being shown in the video isn't fixing the underlying problem. A lack of preload on the wastegate valve will kill the turbo's responsiveness.

View attachment 167431
Have you managed to look at your stock turbo to check on this?
 

WalkerT

Ready to race!
Have you managed to look at your stock turbo to check on this?
The arm, the rod from the arm to the gate, and the gate itself were all worn on my IHI. There was nothing I could do to fix it. Mine had the clip on it as well. The rattle was embarrassing.
 
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