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Sean's Shadow Blue GTI

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Parts came in from FCP today so I got to work.
Good news:
Pistons and rods are assembled, getting the circlips that retain the wrist pins in is a bitch, but they're in now


Bad news:
Crank is in an bolts are all torqued. Those extra 90 degrees had me scared on each one. The bad part is I realized I installed the thrust washers backwards so now the crank has to come out and I need new bolts, they're already on order from VW though and should be here on tuesday. I still gotta look up how to get all the piston rings on correctly but once I do that and the new bolts come in the rods/pistons should be following shortly after, and then hopefully the rest of the motor shortly after

Bonus: Didn't trust my old torque wrench to be accurate since i've beat the shit out of it for the past 3 years so I picked up this new fancy digital one that even measures angles like 65nm + 90degrees
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
More good news and bad news.
Good news: I got the crank back in and didn't forget anything this time.


Bad news:
I got 2 of the pistons in, then woke up in the middle of the night thinking I put the pistons in backwards. After some checking I did so those two need to come back out and get spun around. The ring compressor I got is dog shit so I have to do them by hand which is a pain in the ass. Oh well, hopefully i'll have all those in today and then maybe even get the head on.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Got the two pistons reversed to be facing the correct way now and got the other two in as well. Also put in the studs for my ARP headstud kit. Hopefully getting the head on tomorrow and then the oil pan early next week. I also sent a message to YCW about getting my suspension rebuilt but I found out they dont have facilities in the US for it so depending on shipping it may be cheaper to just buy new. I asked in a racing group on FB and got some recommendations of brands i've never heard of like Ceika and Pedders. Anyone heard of these and have any feedback? Looking for a track oriented set, don't care about comfort or how low they go. Once I get those in and the engine it's off to get the manifold made.

 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
⚠Important Alert⚠ It appears my head game is strong af. That's right folks, the head is on. Everything went super smooth with it besides needing to run out to get a socket to tighten the nuts from the ARP kit. The shop cleaned up the head nice and I replaced the oil check valve as apparently they can fail, and it's cheap. I need to figure out what sealant to use for the valve cover but once I get that the cams will go in and the cover will go on. Going to do this first before the oil pan because 1. If I flip the engine now the lifters/rockers will fall out and i'm too lazy to take them out and organize them and 2. I have to scrape all the gasket out of the upper oil pan section which is gonna take a little time (pictures below). Once the valve cover is on though i'll flip it, get the oil pans (upper and lower) on, then time it up and seal up the lower timing cover. Will be all ready for the manifold at that point. Also my neighbor said his son has an engine crane so hopefully I can use that to join the engine and trans first, then put it in the car as once piece which will be much easier. Picture time

This small gasket is a pain in the ass to remove. Took me like 10 minutes to get an inch of it out.

ARP Head studs cranked down

Getting so, so close

More head please

New oil check valve, make sure to remember to lube the o-ring, i prefer spitting on it and calling it dirty words

Machine shop cleaned her up nice
 

Ronnie_B

Go Kart Champion
Coming along nicely. Couple questions:
What pistons are you running? Stock diameter or oversized?
Was the block just honed or bored as well?
Did you have a valve job performed on the head or just resurfaced? Did you check clearance on the valve guides?
Find any issues with the balance shafts?
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
83mm IE/Mahle pistons. Block was bored out and decked. They shop said they did a valve job on it and all the valve guides were replaced, I'm assuming the clearances we're checked. I read once the shafts are removed they need to be replaced so I have some new ones ready to go in, nothing seemed off about the old ones though
 

Ronnie_B

Go Kart Champion
83mm IE/Mahle pistons. Block was bored out and decked. They shop said they did a valve job on it and all the valve guides were replaced, I'm assuming the clearances we're checked. I read once the shafts are removed they need to be replaced so I have some new ones ready to go in, nothing seemed off about the old ones though
In my experience the valve guides (especially on the exhaust side) need to be replaced. Sounds like you’re on top of it. Good to know about the balance shafts. 👍
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Got home to my neighbor waiting for me with his engine crane so now I have that when i'm ready to get everything back in the car, definitely getting him a case of beer for that one.


Also went to get my cams in but realized I need to replace the valve cover bolts as they are TTY. I placed an order with fcp for those, upper oil pan bolts, lower oil pan bolts, and various gaskets and o-rings that all need to be replaced as the build goes on and those should be here on tuesday hopefully.

I installed to oil level sensor blockoff plate on the iAbed pan so it'll be ready to go in once it's time.




I got my clutch back from southbend after the rebuild which is a nice turnaround time. The pressure plate was red before vs this one being gray. Not sure if it's a different plate or not, I may call to verify with them and double check the disk to make sure the friction surfaces look the same as before as well


I also snapped this piece off the front clip when walking by one of the times. Looks like it wouldn't be easy to replace so i'll try first with using jb weld to get it back on there. Doesn't look like it bears too much load, just has a piece or two screw into it so i'm hopeful for the jb weld. Gonna clean it good with isopropyl first to try and get a good bond.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Cleaned out the upper gasket channels on the upper oil pan. Used a small flathead to loosen everything up then used my dremel with plastic brushes to clean out the residue that was left and pretty happy with the result. now I need to clean off the lower side where the lower pan meets it and i'll be good to go. Also need to wash it off with a hose after to get all the bristles out that broke off. Or I could leave them in so they clean my block as it runs 🤷‍♂️

 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Realized I forgot to post getting the cams in and valvecover on so here it is
Was able to sneak out and get some work done before we took off for the weekend. Got the cams in and the valve cover on. I really hope I didnt mess up with the amount of gasket used. I would definitely prefer to not have to try and re-seal it. It'll be able to sit and cure over the weekend and then once I get back gonna get the bottom end all sealed up and move onto the timing.


New Camshaft plug, always replace according to vw
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
So I actually cleaned off the lower section after work. Used the small screw driver again to scrape out the big pieces of gasket from the screw holes, then the dremel to clean the rest up. I had to use a metal brush this time since the plastic wasnt cutting it, but I just went on the lowest speed and i'd say it came out pretty good. May try and wash it later and potentially get it on tonight, but i'm really not too sure if that's gonna happen.


 
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