I used
this guide - I know that website is kind of a mess, but the guide itself really helpful. I didn't take any pictures, but I'll add my own notes:
Have a small catch can and some rags ready for fluid spill management. You don't want that stuff sitting on the paint.
Pay close attention when you remove the feed hose from the master cylinder - the hose has rubber sealing inserts inside the plastic ends and you need to make sure you don't lose them.
The nuts that hold the pedal bracket to the firewall are single-use self locking (the type that are slightly oblong when they're new and round out as you tighten them), you're going to need new ones. Part number is N02300313. They get torqued to 25nm/18ft-lb
I ended up not putting the foam back on the bracket when I reinstalled it. If you decide to, the washers that hold it on are N10726401.
You're going to need a loooooong socket extension for that upper retaining nut. I ended up stacking 11" and 8" extensions to get to it.
To remove the driver side footwell duct, it's easier to go through the gap between the trim and steering wheel with a T20 on an extension. And yes, it is a T20, not a 15 or 25 like every other small torx fastener on the car.
On my car, the clutch sensor plug was seized on the sensor, even with the proper removal tool, so I had to just remove the sensor from the master cylinder to get it out. Yours may not have this problem, but it's something to be aware of.
Popping the master cylinder rod out of the pedal arm is pretty easy without the special tool as long as you have a vise or a helper to hold it. To reinstall it, put the plastic socket on the ball of the master cylinder first, then push it into the pedal arm.