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Squeaky Clutch Pedal?

jnj2455

Ready to race!
Not sure if I have much to add to this but I had a squeak like 1/4 of the way in when depressing the clutch that you could feel in your leg and I just complained to the shop about it when they were replacing my water pump. Everything was done under warranty, I think they took apart everything and just lubricated things. I don't have the invoice on me otherwise I could give a better explanation.

But I don't recall the master cylinder being replaced. This happened roughly around the 51,000 as well. If it's a simple lubrication it may just be easier to ask them to do it.
 

6MTCSG

Banned
Not sure if I have much to add to this but I had a squeak like 1/4 of the way in when depressing the clutch that you could feel in your leg and I just complained to the shop about it when they were replacing my water pump. Everything was done under warranty, I think they took apart everything and just lubricated things. I don't have the invoice on me otherwise I could give a better explanation.

But I don't recall the master cylinder being replaced. This happened roughly around the 51,000 as well. If it's a simple lubrication it may just be easier to ask them to do it.

your squeak is there all the time regardless of temperature?
 

mattkosem1

Ready to race!
Mine squeaked hot or cold as well.
 

6MTCSG

Banned
We might have different problems then, mine only squeaks when the engine bay is hot. I can make it go away by cruising at highway speed for a while since the air can cool the engine down when under low rpm.
 

6MTCSG

Banned
so i tried to take the bolt off yesterday and it was such a bitch... there is not enough room to work on it and the angles are impossible. The bolt was really hard to push out and I ended up putting the nut back on. Will try again when i have more energy.
 

Blaznjoe

Ready to race!
Bump!

Mine was squeaking after sitting in the heat all day (last week) with temps a little over 90*. It only squeaked during the initial 1/4 throw as others have reported. Was only for that day but now I'm remembering that I hear only on hot days. Weird! :iono:

I'll try taking the clutch pedal off this weekend and greasing it up.
 

BigCanoe

Go Kart Newbie
Mine seems to be temperature specific too. It squeals like a piggy in hot temps haha.
 

v.b

Ready to race!
Uhh in for this as well. Squeaky clutch pedal entire summer is driving me nuts. Last year I was able to get it to go away by blasting the pedal assembly with white lithium grease.
 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
Figured I'd resurrect an old thread and share my experience with this.

I had the same issue with a squeaky pedal, especially in warm weather, and I finally got sick enough of it to fix it. I pulled the pivot bolt out and greased it liberally inside and out, and it didn't help. It seemed like it was the master cylinder squeaking, so I ordered a new one.

Getting the pedal assembly out actually isn't that bad of a job - I can write it up if anyone's interested. Once I got it out, though, I realized it was the spring that was squeaking, not the master cylinder. So I cleaned the spring assembly thoroughly, greased the contact points at both ends with high pressure synthetic wheel bearing grease (the white lithium spray doesn't stay in place well enough), lubed the pedal pivot bolt and its bushing with silicone grease (the ultra-sticky stuff that's used in urethane bushings), and that seems to have done the trick. It's smooth and silent after getting it back together.

From start to finish, the job took me about 3 hours, taking my time and with frequent water breaks. If your clutch pedal is driving you nuts, it's a worthwhile weekend afternoon project.
 
Last edited:

OhNoItsOB

New member
Figured I'd resurrect an old thread and share my experience with this.

I had the same issue with a squeaky pedal, especially in warm weather, and I finally got sick enough of it to fix it. I pulled the pivot bolt out and greased it liberally inside and out, and it didn't help. It seemed like it was the master cylinder squeaking, so I ordered a new one.

Getting the pedal assembly out actually isn't that bad of a job - I can write it up if anyone's interested. Once I got it out, though, I realized it was the spring that was squeaking, not the master cylinder. So I cleaned the spring assembly thoroughly, greased the contact points at both ends with high pressure synthetic wheel bearing grease (the white lithium spray doesn't stay in place well enough), lubed the pedal pivot bolt and its bushing with silicone grease (the ultra-sticky stuff that's used in urethane bushings), and that seems to have done the trick. It's smooth and silent after getting it back together.

From start to finish, the job took me about 3 hours, taking my time and with frequent water breaks. If your clutch pedal is driving you nuts, it's a worthwhile weekend afternoon project.
Hello Tim, I am super interested in getting this done. Please let me know if you have a write up.
 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
I used this guide - I know that website is kind of a mess, but the guide itself really helpful. I didn't take any pictures, but I'll add my own notes:

Have a small catch can and some rags ready for fluid spill management. You don't want that stuff sitting on the paint.

Pay close attention when you remove the feed hose from the master cylinder - the hose has rubber sealing inserts inside the plastic ends and you need to make sure you don't lose them.

The nuts that hold the pedal bracket to the firewall are single-use self locking (the type that are slightly oblong when they're new and round out as you tighten them), you're going to need new ones. Part number is N02300313. They get torqued to 25nm/18ft-lb

I ended up not putting the foam back on the bracket when I reinstalled it. If you decide to, the washers that hold it on are N10726401.

You're going to need a loooooong socket extension for that upper retaining nut. I ended up stacking 11" and 8" extensions to get to it.

To remove the driver side footwell duct, it's easier to go through the gap between the trim and steering wheel with a T20 on an extension. And yes, it is a T20, not a 15 or 25 like every other small torx fastener on the car.

On my car, the clutch sensor plug was seized on the sensor, even with the proper removal tool, so I had to just remove the sensor from the master cylinder to get it out. Yours may not have this problem, but it's something to be aware of.

Popping the master cylinder rod out of the pedal arm is pretty easy without the special tool as long as you have a vise or a helper to hold it. To reinstall it, put the plastic socket on the ball of the master cylinder first, then push it into the pedal arm.
 
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