I've got the new gasket and injector seals. Waiting on the tool for the seals to get here. Sorry I shouldn't post after a 13 hour shift with two hours of sleep and a few drinks. Suprised it's readable.
I think you'll be fine keeping the old one. I re-used my old one when I did my carbon cleaning and had no issues afterwards. I did eventually get a P02015 but that was about 60k miles later so i'd say definitely unrelated to pulling it off and re-using it. Where did you hear you have to upgrade the fuel rail? I went to the newest revision manifold when I re-assembled my engine and still used the original fuel rail. Granted I haven't run the car yet, but everything bolted up fine with it
I think you'll be fine keeping the old one. I re-used my old one when I did my carbon cleaning and had no issues afterwards. I did eventually get a P02015 but that was about 60k miles later so i'd say definitely unrelated to pulling it off and re-using it. Where did you hear you have to upgrade the fuel rail? I went to the newest revision manifold when I re-assembled my engine and still used the original fuel rail. Granted I haven't run the car yet, but everything bolted up fine with it
I think you'll be fine keeping the old one. I re-used my old one when I did my carbon cleaning and had no issues afterwards. I did eventually get a P02015 but that was about 60k miles later so i'd say definitely unrelated to pulling it off and re-using it. Where did you hear you have to upgrade the fuel rail? I went to the newest revision manifold when I re-assembled my engine and still used the original fuel rail. Granted I haven't run the car yet, but everything bolted up fine with it
It was listed on the fitment notes for the new manifold on ECS and another site. So not sure if I need the fuel rail or not. Really don't want to open it up then wait on parts. The old lady is killing my bank account wanting to fix everything in the house.
It was listed on the fitment notes for the new manifold on ECS and another site. So not sure if I need the fuel rail or not. Really don't want to open it up then wait on parts. The old lady is killing my bank account wanting to fix everything in the house.
I'm not sure ECS pictures are up to date. I got the latest revision manifold in 2020, it looks different but it's better. I also reused the original fuel rail from 09, I think you'll be ok.
So I have been chasing down an ABS module fault for a while now with nothing changing for the better. The event that lead to the fault was a light curb check. I checked the codes and it showed a fault for the passenger rear wheel speed sensor and for some unknown reason the car seemed to stumble at low speeds and the engine had a deeper tone than before on acceleration after the faults showed up. So I replaced all the wheel speed sensors and the fault would clear and come back so I took it to a shop to have better trained knowledge thrown at it. It's been there for a while now and the tech seemed to be at a loss the last I spoke with him and I am waiting the results of a pin-out test. What is the best way of asking the tech if things were checked without coming off as a dick customer? I want to ask if he checked the hubs for damage or debris buildup, or if he could bench test the sensors I replaced and move from there but I feel morally wrong asking a professional if they have checked other areas before they come to me with news. I just want my car fixed, riding a motorcycle everyday gets old when the weather is shitty.
If they are a good tech they will listen to your suggestions. You can ask how they might go about testing the wheel sensors. “Are those something you bench test or can your diagnostic equipment test them?” Ask if debris or a damaged wheel hub could cause this issue.
Probably needs whatever the pickup is for the wheel speed sensor. I’m not for sure on this platform but it could be incorporated into the wheel bearing.