smanierre
Autocross Champion
I don't get any whine in 5th, only 1-3 really and maybe a bit in 4th although everything else is so loud that if there is any it gets drowned out.
6
The Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread
- Thread starter GTI7871
- Start date
I don't get any whine in 5th, only 1-3 really and maybe a bit in 4th although everything else is so loud that if there is any it gets drowned out.
GolNat
Autocross Champion
I tried this today out of curiosity and didn't hear any whine. After 4k though all I hear is induction noise.
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torga
Autocross Champion
It's been there since I bought the car, but it hasn't increased in intensity. Always in the same speed range, too - no shift.
GolNat
Autocross Champion
So I know it is advisable to upgrade the torque arm at the same time you do engine mounts but is an insert sufficient enough? I only ask because BFI does not sell an arm just the insert to pair with their engine mounts. Once I get my mounts will my insert suffice.
I am thinking just replace it for peace of mind but if I can save some cash I am all for that!!
I am thinking just replace it for peace of mind but if I can save some cash I am all for that!!
torga
Autocross Champion
Anyone ever used these replacement coolant pipes?
I have a strong suspicion that my plastic pipes (these) are leaking and was about to buy a replacement part, and then I found the Spulen kit above.
Edit: Man, when I linked the part it was on sale for $60 and it went back up to $100. Dunno if it's worth it anymore at that price.
Edit 2: It went back on sale today to the same price as yesterday, so I snagged it up. Also got to apply a $10 coupon I didn't know I had, so for basically the same price as the OEM part, I get an "upgrade". I'll report back on fitment.
I have a strong suspicion that my plastic pipes (these) are leaking and was about to buy a replacement part, and then I found the Spulen kit above.
Edit: Man, when I linked the part it was on sale for $60 and it went back up to $100. Dunno if it's worth it anymore at that price.
Edit 2: It went back on sale today to the same price as yesterday, so I snagged it up. Also got to apply a $10 coupon I didn't know I had, so for basically the same price as the OEM part, I get an "upgrade". I'll report back on fitment.
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1ashchuckton
Autocross Champion
When I click that link I'm seeing $59.99. Pretty good price & they look good.
Edit Just read your complete thread. LOL
torga
Autocross Champion
Yeah, they went back down today, so I snatched em. Glad I waited.
ace-hunter887
New member
For that is it also at 100k miles like the mounts and timing chain? If I get this golf I’ll need to do the timing chain and am wondering since I have to raise the motor if I should do the mounts too at the same time and the torque arm?
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smanierre
Autocross Champion
I would do the arm also. Not sure what the odds of it snapping are but if it does you'll be spending a while lot more than the cost of the arm. Also if you're doing the timing and have the money for mounts might as well do them since you'll already have the motor side out. I forget if I removed the torque arm to do the timing but id do that if doing mounts
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smanierre
Autocross Champion
So i'm coming up on the actual deadline for getting my o2 sensor fixed before my registration gets pulled. So far i've done a new o2 sensor, new oem connector/terminals, and traced the wiring all the way up the harness to where it connects to the ECU and it looked good the whole way up. Still getting a p0140 and p0141 code for no activity. I'm thinking it's the ecu and I'll just need a new one. Anyone have any other ideas or a way to test this before getting a new ecu?
torga
Autocross Champion
So guys, I've searched around and I cannot find a straight answer for my coolant-related question.
Next week, I will be replacing the hard coolant lines that are in front of the IM, and go roughly between the upper timing cover and throttle body. I'm almost positive there's a hairline crack and I have a very slow coolant leak originating from there.
My plan is to open the connection near the upper timing cover, be very careful to not spill much coolant then raise the lines to keep from leaking. Then I will use a syringe/hose combo to suck the rest of the coolant out from the pipes themselves and finish removal.
My question is, when I'm finished, can I get the air out of the system the old fashioned way, i.e. running the engine with heater on and coolant tank cap off until I stop seeing bubbles? I keep seeing conflicting opinions of this online, with a lot of people recommending the use of a OE coolant vac pump tool.
Can I get any direct responses from any of you who have had to deal with this?
EDIT: One can, in fact, burp the coolant system the old fashioned way. I was overthinking this.
Next week, I will be replacing the hard coolant lines that are in front of the IM, and go roughly between the upper timing cover and throttle body. I'm almost positive there's a hairline crack and I have a very slow coolant leak originating from there.
My plan is to open the connection near the upper timing cover, be very careful to not spill much coolant then raise the lines to keep from leaking. Then I will use a syringe/hose combo to suck the rest of the coolant out from the pipes themselves and finish removal.
My question is, when I'm finished, can I get the air out of the system the old fashioned way, i.e. running the engine with heater on and coolant tank cap off until I stop seeing bubbles? I keep seeing conflicting opinions of this online, with a lot of people recommending the use of a OE coolant vac pump tool.
Can I get any direct responses from any of you who have had to deal with this?
EDIT: One can, in fact, burp the coolant system the old fashioned way. I was overthinking this.
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torga
Autocross Champion
Oh, non lightweight? Just go with a Bosch or an Optima RedTop.
uglybastard
Autocross Champion
Alright it's my turn for a stupid question
Past few days of cold starts i noticed that my revs started out at the normal spot of 1100ish and drop to 800ish sooner than usual. used to take about a minute, now its closer to 30 seconds. What would a cause of this be? is this a consequence of a newer timing chain and tensioner?
Past few days of cold starts i noticed that my revs started out at the normal spot of 1100ish and drop to 800ish sooner than usual. used to take about a minute, now its closer to 30 seconds. What would a cause of this be? is this a consequence of a newer timing chain and tensioner?