6
Thumper's 2012 Stg 3 Golf R - The Defiant
- Thread starter Thumper
- Start date
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Yup, but I'm not putting on forehead ridges or trying Gagh! lol
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Replacement motor mounts are here!!!!!!!!!!! Had to get shipped from BFI direct, took them a bit to get a set shipped out but ECS told them to rush ship, they sent them 2nd day UPS, were supposed to get here Monday but actually came today. UPS is winning with tiger blood, every package has been on time or early while FedEx and USPS have been failing constantly. Meanwhile the catchcan mount kit for the new mounts I ordered from BFI was shipped by them on the 4th as a USPS Priority package, as of yesterday the 11th the package is in the USPS distribution center in.........NC. Yup, 7 days and it's not even out of the state.
Anyway.........................
I opened the box saying "Please, please, please be right...." and it was. What a rush LOL
So, yeah, you think I needed new mounts?
That's after 62k miles at least 30k of which was Stg 3 of course but I think I have confirmed the source of my shifting issues (binding from 2nd to 3rd under WOT).
Just for giggles, checked weight savings. Not as much as I had hoped but hey, every once counts!!
Haven't driven it yet but did start it, just sitting there idling it felt like I was sitting in a vibrating chair. Can't wait to feel how tight it will be once I get it out for a drive. I'm starting to wonder if some of the turbo lag I thought I was getting is actually the massive power loss from the old floppy mounts, must have been loosing like 50HP from those things!!!!
Previous owner just put in an HPA puck for the pendulum, like that was going to tame the Stg3 power.
And just because I didn't when I did it originally and you can't see the mounts with the car together, here's a gratutitous shot of the APR short shift kit with ECS adjustable end links. I plan to clean up and treat that rust on the battery tray mount in a couple weeks when I check the torque specs on the mounts.
Anyway.........................
I opened the box saying "Please, please, please be right...." and it was. What a rush LOL
So, yeah, you think I needed new mounts?
That's after 62k miles at least 30k of which was Stg 3 of course but I think I have confirmed the source of my shifting issues (binding from 2nd to 3rd under WOT).
Just for giggles, checked weight savings. Not as much as I had hoped but hey, every once counts!!
Haven't driven it yet but did start it, just sitting there idling it felt like I was sitting in a vibrating chair.
Can't wait to feel how tight it will be once I get it out for a drive. I'm starting to wonder if some of the turbo lag I thought I was getting is actually the massive power loss from the old floppy mounts, must have been loosing like 50HP from those things!!!!Previous owner just put in an HPA puck for the pendulum, like that was going to tame the Stg3 power.
And just because I didn't when I did it originally and you can't see the mounts with the car together, here's a gratutitous shot of the APR short shift kit with ECS adjustable end links. I plan to clean up and treat that rust on the battery tray mount in a couple weeks when I check the torque specs on the mounts.
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Thumper
Autocross Champion
So, I posted in the BFI thread and What You Did today, but forgot to update my own build thread. My commute is killing my brain.
Anyway,
I got the Stage 2 kit installed a couple weeks ago and have done a a few drives and about
I was expecting some NVH from the Stage 2 kit but was more interested in performance as this will be my track car. There was some slight vibrations in the seat after initial install but has pretty much gone completely away. In fact there's nothing really harsh or vibration I can tell at all. There is a large increase in noise though, the chatter from the flywheel is obvious and almost sounds like the car had a louder exhaust put on under acceleration LOL There is now no increase in vibration and no new rattles, totally worth every penny and the extra delay.
Hard to give proper feedback on improvements as when I pulled my old mounts I found that they were completely destroyed as seen in the video in post #33 above. So obviously everything feels so tight and solid now, it was a major improvement for me simply because the factory mounts were so sloppy. However I am sure anyone would notice a change even from just normal worn factory mounts. Shifting is smoother, throttle input is a bit more direct feeling, just an awesome upgrade.
Never drove a Stg2 R, just a Stg2 GTI and not really a fair comparison.
There is definitely lag, torque doesn't really start until after 3k RPM and it's not until you hit 4k RPM to when it really starts pulling hard. I've actually decided to get a "Boost loading, now's your chance" sticker lol But once you're in the power it just presses you back in the seat and you've got this stupid grin on your face.
So, in my tracking down of the phantom boost leak I decided last weekend that my TOP hose may be the issue (probably not) but I think it should be replaced anyway. While checking for loose clamps I found the hose is extremely soft and squishy. Evidently this is an APR only replacement part and has to be made so still waiting on this. In the meantime I ordered the BSH TB pipe so I can upgrade that side (still has the OEM pancake pipe) while I am doing it. There looked to be a slight misalignment between the lower hose and the OEM TB pipe that I couldn't get to move so I'm also hoping that's my leak. Either way I'm hoping to build a leak tester in the next couple weekends since I have to wait on the APR hose anyway.
Small side note also forgotten, I've had a small leak from my trans so decided to change the fluid, previous owner changed it at 52k so a little early now that it's only at 65k but the good news is I measured what came out and it was 2.2L and I spilled a bit so seems like it's not a major leak, just random drops. Refilled with 2.3L of MOTUL and replaced drain and fill plug with ECS magnetic versions, although supplied washers were too big so I had to re-use old ones. Noted that the old fluid was pretty nasty already, I'm going to change it again in 20k and send a sample for analysis.
torga
Autocross Champion
Since I went stage 1, I actually noticed a bit of a decrease in noise, straight away. I'm DMFW, but I could still hear the gears in the trans spinning -- that noise is a bit lower now. The Stage 1s are slightly softer than my old ones (70A vs 75A), so the damping is better. But they're better designed than my old ones, so they feel much stiffer and direct.
BFI really has a home run with these mounts, imo. The long rectangles are perfect, as the extra length acts as an opposing lever to the engine's torque. Easily beats any of the circular bushing mounts that exist, like my old BSH set.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Got over 1000 miles total on the mounts now after a couple days commuting in the R, gear noise is not going anywhere but I don't care. LOL
So a couple updates/teasers/more bad news.....
Re-did the interior lights a while ago and forgot to post. I like to run red LEDs for interior to protect my nightvision if the wife has to look for something in her purse or glovebox. Trunk and glovebox as well as vanity lights are all red.
Should have cleaned the floor mats but just a spur of the moment decided to get the pic.
So, more current events got a box of goodies Friday.........
Normally I use the OEM oil filter but the K&N was on sale so figured I would test it, I'll be doing another oil analysis on the next change as switching from Castrol Edge oil to Molygen so we'll see how the filter and oil do. The belt is the V-rib belt, it's a Gates Kevlar impregnated belt should stand up to heat and stress better.
Now the bad news........APR sent me the wrong hose to try to fix my boost issue, or at least narrow down where the issue is. I asked for the TOP hose to the intercooler, and they sent me this.
That's the turbo outlet to the TOP pipe up top.
So I have to wait to get the right ones, not that it mattered much since it was too cold this weekend to work outside. Even though I have no desire to spend my weekend driving the 3 1/2 hour round trip to my work like I do all week, I am considering doing it to use the lift inside a warm shop LOL
So a couple updates/teasers/more bad news.....
Re-did the interior lights a while ago and forgot to post. I like to run red LEDs for interior to protect my nightvision if the wife has to look for something in her purse or glovebox. Trunk and glovebox as well as vanity lights are all red.
Should have cleaned the floor mats but just a spur of the moment decided to get the pic.
So, more current events got a box of goodies Friday.........
Normally I use the OEM oil filter but the K&N was on sale so figured I would test it, I'll be doing another oil analysis on the next change as switching from Castrol Edge oil to Molygen so we'll see how the filter and oil do. The belt is the V-rib belt, it's a Gates Kevlar impregnated belt should stand up to heat and stress better.
Now the bad news........APR sent me the wrong hose to try to fix my boost issue, or at least narrow down where the issue is. I asked for the TOP hose to the intercooler, and they sent me this.
That's the turbo outlet to the TOP pipe up top.
So I have to wait to get the right ones, not that it mattered much since it was too cold this weekend to work outside. Even though I have no desire to spend my weekend driving the 3 1/2 hour round trip to my work like I do all week, I am considering doing it to use the lift inside a warm shop LOL
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Long time no update, winter and only a 1 car garage really put the pause on a bunch of projects.
Did an oil change yesterday, starting my oil testing to find a replacement for Castrol as documented here I'm Bored, let's fight aboout oil. First up is LiquiMoly Molygen, really does make you stop and think when pouring it in, stuff looks just like the old green anti-freeze. But we'll see what it'll do, running my standard 3000 mile oil change and will send it off to be tested. Paired it with a K&N oil filter this time which I normally do not do, normally just get the OEM one from ECS. For some reason I decided to test out the K&N, so we'll see.
This is what my oil filter looked like after 3200 miles. Was a bit deformed last couple of changes as well...... I'm using a aluminum oil filter housing but have had it on for the last few oil changes, always noticed some deformation but this really caught my eye. It's an OEM filter and doesn't seem like the issue is from crushing in a too small housing or the filter being too long. Guess I'll see what the K&N looks like, but after installing it and looking at this I remember the K&N had thin pads at the top and bottom which would technically make it taller.
Ordered both IC hoses and TB pipe a while ago to upgrade and hopefully solve my mystery boost leak,just finally got the good weather this weekend. I had seen the IC outlet hose where it attaches to the TB pipe looking like it had a bit of a gap, did not sit flush with the rim when I was changing trans oil. When I pulled the intake yesterday to do the TB pipe I saw the clamp on the upper of the hose was half off and the hose was even farther from the seat rim on the factory pipe. I decided to just replace the hose because I was sure after seeing that it must be the leak. I was thinking it got pulled slightly loose with the old motor mounts, and then didn't show in my leak test because even with the new mounts there was enough movement to leak only under acceleration. I didn't want to replace a bunch of things and then possibly still have the issue and not know if it was that hose afterall or something new I did.
There was about a tablespoon of oil in the hose and the new hose was a BITCH to get on. The new hose came with some serious clamps, not the standard worm drive, these were shiny T-Bolt styles, for some reason the IC side was way big allowing a lot of slack, but the TB pipe side was just barely big enough to open the hose when fully loosened.
Unfortunately, did not fix my leak or maybe it just wasn't the only issue, the car did feel slightly more responsive after changing that hose (probably just butt dyno lol) but still won't boost over 24.5-24.8. Ug. This weekend I'll just replace everything else and cross my fingers, otherwise it's off to the tuner to see if it's a tune issue caused by the TurboSmart DV. First track day is the beginning of May and I still need to replace front and rear pads, rotors, and flush.
Did an oil change yesterday, starting my oil testing to find a replacement for Castrol as documented here I'm Bored, let's fight aboout oil. First up is LiquiMoly Molygen, really does make you stop and think when pouring it in, stuff looks just like the old green anti-freeze. But we'll see what it'll do, running my standard 3000 mile oil change and will send it off to be tested. Paired it with a K&N oil filter this time which I normally do not do, normally just get the OEM one from ECS. For some reason I decided to test out the K&N, so we'll see.
This is what my oil filter looked like after 3200 miles. Was a bit deformed last couple of changes as well...... I'm using a aluminum oil filter housing but have had it on for the last few oil changes, always noticed some deformation but this really caught my eye. It's an OEM filter and doesn't seem like the issue is from crushing in a too small housing or the filter being too long. Guess I'll see what the K&N looks like, but after installing it and looking at this I remember the K&N had thin pads at the top and bottom which would technically make it taller.
Ordered both IC hoses and TB pipe a while ago to upgrade and hopefully solve my mystery boost leak,just finally got the good weather this weekend. I had seen the IC outlet hose where it attaches to the TB pipe looking like it had a bit of a gap, did not sit flush with the rim when I was changing trans oil. When I pulled the intake yesterday to do the TB pipe I saw the clamp on the upper of the hose was half off and the hose was even farther from the seat rim on the factory pipe. I decided to just replace the hose because I was sure after seeing that it must be the leak. I was thinking it got pulled slightly loose with the old motor mounts, and then didn't show in my leak test because even with the new mounts there was enough movement to leak only under acceleration. I didn't want to replace a bunch of things and then possibly still have the issue and not know if it was that hose afterall or something new I did.
There was about a tablespoon of oil in the hose and the new hose was a BITCH to get on. The new hose came with some serious clamps, not the standard worm drive, these were shiny T-Bolt styles, for some reason the IC side was way big allowing a lot of slack, but the TB pipe side was just barely big enough to open the hose when fully loosened.
Unfortunately, did not fix my leak or maybe it just wasn't the only issue, the car did feel slightly more responsive after changing that hose (probably just butt dyno lol) but still won't boost over 24.5-24.8. Ug. This weekend I'll just replace everything else and cross my fingers, otherwise it's off to the tuner to see if it's a tune issue caused by the TurboSmart DV. First track day is the beginning of May and I still need to replace front and rear pads, rotors, and flush.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Replaced my multi-rib belt (serpentine). Went with a Kevlar embedded belt from ECS (updated first post), and hey, it complements with the red top coils. lol
Found out APR sent me the wrong hose for my intercooler inlet. I once again feel like I may have found the issue as there is damage to the hose on the side that goes to the turbo pipe, it looks like a cut but it's not a full cut through. So I again wonder if it will only open up and leak when the engine is twisting under load. However, the replacement hose is wrong so I can't find out now. The replacement they sent me came with an adapter to mount to the factory pipe, with the o-ring design, but it was removeable so thought the hose just worked for both. Sadly, it is too short and has the wrong angles, no way to make it fit on the car.
First track event is May 1st, and I still need time to upgrade the brakes and sort out any other issues having this issue still puzzling me is getting old. I said if this hose doesn't fix it I am having my tuner deal with it but now I am delayed waiting for another hose that hopefully fits.
Found out APR sent me the wrong hose for my intercooler inlet. I once again feel like I may have found the issue as there is damage to the hose on the side that goes to the turbo pipe, it looks like a cut but it's not a full cut through. So I again wonder if it will only open up and leak when the engine is twisting under load. However, the replacement hose is wrong so I can't find out now. The replacement they sent me came with an adapter to mount to the factory pipe, with the o-ring design, but it was removeable so thought the hose just worked for both. Sadly, it is too short and has the wrong angles, no way to make it fit on the car.
First track event is May 1st, and I still need time to upgrade the brakes and sort out any other issues having this issue still puzzling me is getting old. I said if this hose doesn't fix it I am having my tuner deal with it but now I am delayed waiting for another hose that hopefully fits.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
I had my APR tuner go over the car and test the complete boost and intake system while having the tune swapped to my name and added more programs. When I bought it the previous owner had only put a 93 octane file on it, I loaded it up with Stock, 91, 93, and 100.
They found no boost issues and checked in with APR who stated it should never boost to 30+PSI, the 25-26 PSI it's doing is proper operation with the caveat that there are many variables and there's no set boost level, etc, etc. So no idea why it stuck at 22 PSI after doing the cam follower change and TurboSMART DV or why it WAS hitting 28-30 PSI before but only does 25-26 psi now. They say there's no leak and the tune is performing as designed with no issues, I guess I'm going with it. Planning on getting it on a dyno later this year anyway, so we'll see then I guess. LOL
They found no boost issues and checked in with APR who stated it should never boost to 30+PSI, the 25-26 PSI it's doing is proper operation with the caveat that there are many variables and there's no set boost level, etc, etc. So no idea why it stuck at 22 PSI after doing the cam follower change and TurboSMART DV or why it WAS hitting 28-30 PSI before but only does 25-26 psi now. They say there's no leak and the tune is performing as designed with no issues, I guess I'm going with it. Planning on getting it on a dyno later this year anyway, so we'll see then I guess. LOL
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Thumper
Autocross Champion
I posted a review of the BSH and Neuspeed Throttle pipes in the Golf R section here;
https://www.golfmk6.com/forums/inde...s-neuspeed-throttle-pipe.383818/#post-7625983
But adding it here for completeness as well.
I got a BSH Throttle Pipe to upgrade my R, running at Stg 3 this is really a no brainer and needed to be done as the OEM pancake is a massive restriction. I had used the BSH on my GTI build and worked fine, I liked the design where it uses a threaded plug to block the DV/noise pipe outlet instead of the rubber cap design of the others. That was not a concern for the R but a good product is a good product. Man was I wrong.
When installing the BSH I had to fight it to get the IC outlet hose to reach and fit on the pipe at all, the pipe was no where near where the hose was. I had to have the wife reach down inside the engine bay and pull the pipe toward the front of the car so I could get the hose on it. Even then the hose could not cover much of the outlet and it felt like the clamp was on the rib of the pipe and not past it as it should have been. Sure enough, I got one block from my house, hit 5psi turning the corner and heard a loud POP and lost all power. Barely made it home and into the driveway and found, yup, the hose had blown off the pipe.
So I hit ECS again and looked at the other options and decided to order the Neuspeed mostly because of it having the correct mount bracket and partly because I figure if I trust them with my wheels and the rear brake rotors on the TTRS surely they designed a proper pipe. I paid for quicker shipping to get it before the next weekend when I had an appointment to get the APR tune transferred to me and new programs installed. It arrived and after I got home from work Friday night I set about taking the BSH off and installing the Neuspeed before my Saturday morning appointment. My loving wife got me two fancy new LED work lights since this would be an outside, after dark install. lol I decided I had to photo document the differences and my annoyance with such a simple product.
This photo (the BSH is on the top in the photo, Neuspeed is on the bottom) shows one of the major design differences, you can see the Neuspeed has a tighter bend and is much longer after the bend. This completely changes the location of this end of the pipe which has to connect tot he hose off the IC outlet. This is shown even clearer in the second photo with the Neuspeed laid on top of the BSH. You can also see the Neuspeed has the proper mount bracket where the BSH has nothing.
The design differences that really make you question how these cold both be designed for the same vehicle continue on the other end as well. The next photo has the Neuspeed on the left and BSH on the right. The Neuspeed has a bend angling the outlet to the TB where the BSH is just a straight pipe. This is also a major difference in the location of the pipe and inlet/outlets to connect to the hoses.
The Neuspeed needed no force to make it align with the hoses properly at all and had plenty of space to properly clamp the hose from the IC. Unfortunately this is not a completely happy conclusion with the perfect solution found.
Here is the first photo again, this time look at the location of the MAP sensor mount flange.
This difference causes the MAP sensor socket to contact and rub on the oil cooler. It was incredibly difficult to even get the sensor in (I couldn't get the socket to release the harness so I just left it plugged in and undid the screws) and after some adjustment I got it so it's just barely touching the oil cooler but I don't want it rubbing on it. I had to leave it for now as it was 9:45 and I had worked 9 hours that day (and I have a nearly 2 hour commute on top) so I left it and will go back and try to adjust to get more clearance.
Sadly, there's a couple more issues that make the Neuspeed the better choice not because it is better, but only because the BSH is so bad. This is the quality of the assembly of the Neuspeed.
This is the way the outlet for the DV is attached. I have nothing against the blind, I am sure they are great people but I really don't want them to be responsible for assembling products. I know the airflow is going out of this section not in, but this will still cause turbulence in the airflow continuing to the TB and is just shoddy.
The last two issues are minor but worth mentioning. The bolt they send to attach the mount bracket is not big enough to securely hold the bracket properly against the engine, it needs a washer. And finally they do not give you a new hose to attach the pipe to the TB. In my case my factory hose was in bad shape and I thought was causing a boost leak as it was curling at the top so re-using it was not a choice. Right now I am still using the one that DID come with the BSH while I wait to see if I can get the MAP adjusted or if I have to order a THIRD vendor's offering and see how it is. USP sells one from Spulen which looks to be designed with the same bends as the Neuspeed and has the bracket but the MAP mount location does look like it is in a different spot (and it comes with a new hose for the TB) so we shall see.
In conclusion I will say ECS does not list the BSH for the R if you search in their categories, I found it by just manually searching for it because as mentioned I had used it on the GTI and wanted to go with what I knew, but it DOES list it as being a proper fit for the MK6 R. It clearly is NOT unless I somehow got a reject that was missed in QC and not manufactured right. It seems like this is where there are clear differences between the FSI and TSI, or that manufacturing error possibility. I'm not ordering another one to find out, I will just say based on my experience no one should bother ordering one for their MK6 R, it is terrible. The Neuspeed is a much better designed product and clearly appears engineered specifically for this platform, but falls short from failures in little things and small issues that should have been addressed. If I end up ordering the Spulen from USP I'll update this thread with that adventure. LOL
I checked the MAP sensor today again and it's barely touching the oil cooler but with the proper mount bracket holding the whole thing in place it shouldn't rub or catch but I am going to keep my eye on it. I really don't feel like taking this thing off AGAIN to try the Spulen unless I have to. I have wasted SO much time with this one part and have been delayed doing other projects because of it.
https://www.golfmk6.com/forums/inde...s-neuspeed-throttle-pipe.383818/#post-7625983
But adding it here for completeness as well.
I got a BSH Throttle Pipe to upgrade my R, running at Stg 3 this is really a no brainer and needed to be done as the OEM pancake is a massive restriction. I had used the BSH on my GTI build and worked fine, I liked the design where it uses a threaded plug to block the DV/noise pipe outlet instead of the rubber cap design of the others. That was not a concern for the R but a good product is a good product. Man was I wrong.
When installing the BSH I had to fight it to get the IC outlet hose to reach and fit on the pipe at all, the pipe was no where near where the hose was. I had to have the wife reach down inside the engine bay and pull the pipe toward the front of the car so I could get the hose on it. Even then the hose could not cover much of the outlet and it felt like the clamp was on the rib of the pipe and not past it as it should have been. Sure enough, I got one block from my house, hit 5psi turning the corner and heard a loud POP and lost all power. Barely made it home and into the driveway and found, yup, the hose had blown off the pipe.
So I hit ECS again and looked at the other options and decided to order the Neuspeed mostly because of it having the correct mount bracket and partly because I figure if I trust them with my wheels and the rear brake rotors on the TTRS surely they designed a proper pipe. I paid for quicker shipping to get it before the next weekend when I had an appointment to get the APR tune transferred to me and new programs installed. It arrived and after I got home from work Friday night I set about taking the BSH off and installing the Neuspeed before my Saturday morning appointment. My loving wife got me two fancy new LED work lights since this would be an outside, after dark install. lol I decided I had to photo document the differences and my annoyance with such a simple product.
This photo (the BSH is on the top in the photo, Neuspeed is on the bottom) shows one of the major design differences, you can see the Neuspeed has a tighter bend and is much longer after the bend. This completely changes the location of this end of the pipe which has to connect tot he hose off the IC outlet. This is shown even clearer in the second photo with the Neuspeed laid on top of the BSH. You can also see the Neuspeed has the proper mount bracket where the BSH has nothing.
The design differences that really make you question how these cold both be designed for the same vehicle continue on the other end as well. The next photo has the Neuspeed on the left and BSH on the right. The Neuspeed has a bend angling the outlet to the TB where the BSH is just a straight pipe. This is also a major difference in the location of the pipe and inlet/outlets to connect to the hoses.
The Neuspeed needed no force to make it align with the hoses properly at all and had plenty of space to properly clamp the hose from the IC. Unfortunately this is not a completely happy conclusion with the perfect solution found.
Here is the first photo again, this time look at the location of the MAP sensor mount flange.
This difference causes the MAP sensor socket to contact and rub on the oil cooler. It was incredibly difficult to even get the sensor in (I couldn't get the socket to release the harness so I just left it plugged in and undid the screws) and after some adjustment I got it so it's just barely touching the oil cooler but I don't want it rubbing on it. I had to leave it for now as it was 9:45 and I had worked 9 hours that day (and I have a nearly 2 hour commute on top) so I left it and will go back and try to adjust to get more clearance.
Sadly, there's a couple more issues that make the Neuspeed the better choice not because it is better, but only because the BSH is so bad. This is the quality of the assembly of the Neuspeed.
This is the way the outlet for the DV is attached. I have nothing against the blind, I am sure they are great people but I really don't want them to be responsible for assembling products. I know the airflow is going out of this section not in, but this will still cause turbulence in the airflow continuing to the TB and is just shoddy.
The last two issues are minor but worth mentioning. The bolt they send to attach the mount bracket is not big enough to securely hold the bracket properly against the engine, it needs a washer. And finally they do not give you a new hose to attach the pipe to the TB. In my case my factory hose was in bad shape and I thought was causing a boost leak as it was curling at the top so re-using it was not a choice. Right now I am still using the one that DID come with the BSH while I wait to see if I can get the MAP adjusted or if I have to order a THIRD vendor's offering and see how it is. USP sells one from Spulen which looks to be designed with the same bends as the Neuspeed and has the bracket but the MAP mount location does look like it is in a different spot (and it comes with a new hose for the TB) so we shall see.
In conclusion I will say ECS does not list the BSH for the R if you search in their categories, I found it by just manually searching for it because as mentioned I had used it on the GTI and wanted to go with what I knew, but it DOES list it as being a proper fit for the MK6 R. It clearly is NOT unless I somehow got a reject that was missed in QC and not manufactured right. It seems like this is where there are clear differences between the FSI and TSI, or that manufacturing error possibility. I'm not ordering another one to find out, I will just say based on my experience no one should bother ordering one for their MK6 R, it is terrible. The Neuspeed is a much better designed product and clearly appears engineered specifically for this platform, but falls short from failures in little things and small issues that should have been addressed. If I end up ordering the Spulen from USP I'll update this thread with that adventure. LOL
I checked the MAP sensor today again and it's barely touching the oil cooler but with the proper mount bracket holding the whole thing in place it shouldn't rub or catch but I am going to keep my eye on it. I really don't feel like taking this thing off AGAIN to try the Spulen unless I have to. I have wasted SO much time with this one part and have been delayed doing other projects because of it.
Francoleon91
Drag Racing Champion
Makes me glad I bought the CTS one instead of the BSH back when i went BT. I needed a throttle pipe with a meth bung and luckily the CTS fitment was on point.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Well, finally another update. Finally got my tires, went with a safer setup for now other than balls out with the 255s I was thinking about.
Went with Pirelli P Zero PZ4 Sports in 235/40ZR18, for now I have them mounted on a stock set of 18s off my A3 I had laying around in the basement while I decide on final wheel choice (and sell the black 19" BBS CHRs the previous owner had on it). Oh, did I mention I plastidippd the A3 wheels in Blaze Blue? lol I have some Rline center caps I use on the Touareg's winter set that I popped on for now as well. I did it sort of a goof and to tease the wife into approving new wheels quickly but I'll be damned if I don't actually kind of like it.
Also this weekend I got closer to my final back window sticker design. It's still not perfect but I'm finally happy enough with it to post a picture. The sticker on the far right vertically is a Paul Walker tribute in teal. I normally put that one on the top right but was trying something different and making room for the others.
Unfortunately my Ceika rotors got delayed thanks to the screw up in the Suez so I will not be able to take the R to the season opener of track season next weekend, have to slum it in the TTRS again. Hopefully my rotors show up the first week of May and I can get the R ready for the next one the end of May. I just did a short drive today for pictures and the tires are so good even before I scrub them in, I can't wait till I have brakes and can really break in the tires.
Went with Pirelli P Zero PZ4 Sports in 235/40ZR18, for now I have them mounted on a stock set of 18s off my A3 I had laying around in the basement while I decide on final wheel choice (and sell the black 19" BBS CHRs the previous owner had on it). Oh, did I mention I plastidippd the A3 wheels in Blaze Blue? lol I have some Rline center caps I use on the Touareg's winter set that I popped on for now as well. I did it sort of a goof and to tease the wife into approving new wheels quickly but I'll be damned if I don't actually kind of like it.
Also this weekend I got closer to my final back window sticker design. It's still not perfect but I'm finally happy enough with it to post a picture. The sticker on the far right vertically is a Paul Walker tribute in teal. I normally put that one on the top right but was trying something different and making room for the others.
Unfortunately my Ceika rotors got delayed thanks to the screw up in the Suez so I will not be able to take the R to the season opener of track season next weekend, have to slum it in the TTRS again. Hopefully my rotors show up the first week of May and I can get the R ready for the next one the end of May. I just did a short drive today for pictures and the tires are so good even before I scrub them in, I can't wait till I have brakes and can really break in the tires.
uglybastard
Autocross Champion
What are the specs in the CHRs you'll be selling?