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Tony's Black GTI

BudgetPhoenix

Drag Racing Champion
Thanks for the reply, I think I found the info online you were talking about. This baffles me because I also have Elsawin on my PC and it doesnt mention this anywhere
 

riceburner

Drag Racing Champion
boy that looked like fun! lol! kudos to you for going through that in your driveway

ps where did you find the soundaktor in your car? under drivers side cowl? i couldn't find mine, which makes me wonder if the previous owner took it out already haha
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Thanks for the reply, I think I found the info online you were talking about. This baffles me because I also have Elsawin on my PC and it doesnt mention this anywhere
I had the same reaction. Was quite confused and took a night to research. Very surprised there was no mention in the service manual. It ended up working out.

Sidenote, How do you access Elsawin? The only access to service manuals I have is through the website I linked above and it is a huge pain to print those pages out.

boy that looked like fun! lol! kudos to you for going through that in your driveway

ps where did you find the soundaktor in your car? under drivers side cowl? i couldn't find mine, which makes me wonder if the previous owner took it out already haha
Soundaktor is under the cowl towards the center. The actual soundaktor hockey puck thing is on a bracket closer to the drivers side up above the wiper linkage. The connection and the control unit are towards the passenger side. I had initially simply unplugged the connector at the control unit because it didn't require removing the cowl.
 
Last edited:

GoodTimesIndeed

Go Kart Champion
I've been strongly considering ditching APR and picking up a used Cobb Accessport to pair with a Stratified Tune...
Following. Will be interesting to hear your thoughts if you do decide to go through with it.

I often wonder if doing this with the K04 would make a difference or not, especially since I believe APR V3.1 is rather aggressive already.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Following. Will be interesting to hear your thoughts if you do decide to go through with it.

I often wonder if doing this with the K04 would make a difference or not, especially since I believe APR V3.1 is rather aggressive already.
Good to hear from you again!

It's a pretty steep upfront cost (Accessport + Stratified tune) but everyone seems to love the Stratified tunes, especially if coming from APR stage 2.

However, a few things I've read indicate that the APR K04 file is pretty stout. I don't know if there's a lot to gain by switching to Stratified from the APR K04 file.
 

GoodTimesIndeed

Go Kart Champion
Good to hear from you again!

It's a pretty steep upfront cost (Accessport + Stratified tune) but everyone seems to love the Stratified tunes, especially if coming from APR stage 2.

However, a few things I've read indicate that the APR K04 file is pretty stout. I don't know if there's a lot to gain by switching to Stratified from the APR K04 file.
HAHA, I've been around... creepn' on your build. Pretty legit garage setup with having access to that lift and all. Good stuff!

Yeah, I see the videos that others post with the stratified tunes and they do look quick. Looks like it would be worth it if you plan on going that route.
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
DIY RSR Clutch is installed! Also replaced the rear main crankshaft seal with the iAbed Billet RMS. Parts lists, resources, and install tips below. Full Flickr album here, select embedded photos below. My Overall Impressions are at the bottom of the post. I will update them after clutch break in.
__________________________________________________

Clutch

Parts List:
Pressure Plate (07K 141 015 BX) - $365.26 + Free shipping (AudiUSAParts.com)

Clutch Disk (1878 005 146) - $110.99 + Free shipping (eEuroparts.com)
Throwout Bearing (0A5 141 671 F) - $108.35 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Pressure plate bolts (N 903 207 01) - $0.99 x6 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Throwout bearing bolts (N 908 470 02) - $1.00 x3 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)

Dual Mass Flywheel (06J 105 266 H) - $75 + Free shipping (forum member, used for 50k on a stock Jetta)
Flywheel bolts (N 906 650 01) - $2.02 x8 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Transmission Fluid (G 052 527 A2) - $41.11 x3 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
VW Clutch Alignment Tool (T10097) - $15.99 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)


Total: $824.02


Resources:
Calkulin's "Build your own RSR clutch kit" Thread
T is for TURBO's Clutch Replacement Thread
GTI Mod Blog's Clutch Replacement Video


Install Tips:

Overall it wasn't a terrible job but I had a few issues. My goal was to remove the least amount of components possible. I didn't want to drop the subframe or remove the axles. I ended up unbolting both axles at the differential flanges, removing both flanges at the differential, and unbolting the ball joint at the control arm on the driver's side. This allowed enough clearance to move the driver's side axle over into the wheel well (you can see it in a few of the pictures). I also removed the bracket that holds the transmission mount to the transmission. Lastly, I unscrewed the 2 throttle body screws and disconnected a few electrical connections located between the radiator and the front of the engine. All of this gave me enough clearance to get the transmission out but it was quite a pain. I didn't really have any other issues besides things generally being difficult to maneuver. I did notice a ~1/2" hole that was open but looks like it should have some kind of plug on the bottom of the transmission. I plugged it from the outside with a simple, ribbed panel fastener from the hardware store. A few notes:


  • When I finally got the transmission off, the bell housing was full of sludgy, gritty crap. Not sure if I had a leaky throwout bearing or what. Took me quite awhile in the parts washer to clean it out but it came out nice.
  • I purchased a used OEM DMFW to replace mine and I'm glad I did. My flywheel was pretty bad looking. I bought Harbor Freight version of 2" Scotch Brite pads and arbor and hit the flywheel surface with the medium grit "scotch brite." It worked great and cleaned the flywheel surface right up. I don't anticipate any problems in the future but only time will tell.
  • The flywheel was a pain to bolt onto the crankshaft. It seemed to only line up one way and there are 8 bolts so 8 possible way to align it.
    EDIT: The flywheel does in fact only bolt up one way. On the engine hub this is indicated by a number stamped between two of the holes. These line up with the small extra hole on the flywheel located between the flywheel bolts.
  • To keep the crank/flywheel from turning when I torqued the 8 flywheel bolts I put a 24mm socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. I had a helper hold the breaker bar while I worked the torque wrench. There is an OEM flywheel retainer tool if you are interested (tool number 3067) that runs about $25.
  • I got the rest of the clutch together without issue. Had to open up the 3 guide holes on the pressure plate with a ~1/4" drill bit as is well documented.
  • The differential flanges are spring loaded but went on easily with 2 people: 1 used a prybar to press the flange in, the other used a ratchet to install the bolt that holds it together.
  • I didn't bench bleed the throwout bearing and it took a ton of fluid (2ish pints) to bleed conventionally but it got there eventually.







__________________________________________________

Rear Main Seal

Parts List:

iAbed RMS & VW T20097 (462-103-171F-KT) - $124.00 + 16.56 shipping (excelerateperformance.com)

Victor Reinz Sealant (703141410) - $7.21 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)

Total: $147.77


Resources:

VW Service Manual - RMS Installation Procedure
A big thanks to Greg from Excelerate Performance for answering all the questions I pestered him with about the RMS installation. He was so helpful and quick to respond.


Install Tips:
I didn't realize that it would be necessary to press the spring loaded seal into the billet bracket. Luckily I have a hydraulic press and found a PVC coupler that was a close enough diameter to work as a seal driver. It certainly wasn't ideal and took some time but I got it *almost* fully seated. I didn't want to press anymore for fear of deforming the seal. Installing the seal over the crankshaft was simple following Greg from Excelerate Performance's instructions (above) in addition to the service manual. I purchased the sealant he recommended as well as the install tool T20097. If I was forced to do the job without the tool I think I could have found a wax paper cup or similar of the correct diameter but it was cheap enough and worth it to make the job simple. Don't forget to put the "intermediate plate" heat shield/gasket thing back on before you bolt up your flywheel!





__________________________________________________



Overall Impressions & Test Drive


Firstly, I've been having some symptoms that led me to complete this clutch job. I've experienced clutch slipping intermittently at low RPM, high gear scenarios since the spring. The OEM clutch had
91k miles, the last 25k of which have been APR Stage 1. I took it easy on the clutch to the present 106k. The clutch had also gotten grabby and I had a lot of chatter. Gear changes were somewhat rough no matter how well timed my shifts were, especially in lower gears. I had also been experiencing really notchy shifting, to the point that I didn't feel comfortable forcing the car into 1st gear, during this recent cold weather. Lastly, I began experiencing intermittent throwout bearing squeal on engagement, particularly when the car was cold.

During assembly I completely replaced my transmission oil with OEM fluid and re-aligned my Dieselgeek Short Shifter. There seems to be some confusion as to which OEM fluid should be used on ECStuning.com but I was assured by one of their tech's that the fluid I purchased will work fine. I was surprised when I poured it out that it was close to the consistency of motor oil - much thinner than the 75w90
Motul Gear 300 oil I used before. I fired up the car and, immediately upon putting it in gear, the transmission felt great. That new fluid and short shifter alignment did the trick. The clutch pedal feels great, approximately 25% stiffer. The biggest difference is that clutch engagement is back to being buttery smooth. No chatter or grabby feeling. I'll have to get used to driving with the new clutch feel but I'm confident that will only take a few days. I'm excited to get through the break-in period because it feels like it will grab really well and be a blast to drive. I removed my clutch stop as a precaution but the bite is far enough off the floor that I think it will be fine to use.

Overall the drivetrain feels brand new and I couldn't be happier. I'll update this section after clutch break in.


UPDATE:
I've completed break-in period and the clutch feels great. I put the clutch stop back in and it works fine with the new engagement point. I haven't worked the clutch hard or launched or anything like that but everything feels great doing pulls. The pedal stiffness either subsided or I got used to it, but I'd say the pedal feels only slightly stiffer than stock, maybe 10-20%. The OEM transmission fluid has proved to make a great difference, particularly in this cold weather. Overall I'm really happy with the DIY RSR clutch and would highly recommend it if it suits your needs.

UPDATE #2: I have over 20k miles on the clutch now, and have recently gone K04. It's holding up fantastic!


 
Last edited:

BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
DIY RSR Clutch is installed! Also replaced the rear main crankshaft seal with the iAbed Billet RMS. Parts lists, resources, and install tips below. Full Flickr album here, select embedded photos below. My Overall Impressions are at the bottom of the post. I will update them after clutch break in.
__________________________________________________

Clutch

Parts List:
Pressure Plate (07K 141 015 BX) - $365.26 + Free shipping (AudiUSAParts.com)

Clutch Disk (1878 005 146) - $110.99 + Free shipping (eEuroparts.com)
Dual Mass Flywheel (06J 105 266 H) - $75 + Free shipping (forum member, used for 50k on a stock Jetta)
Throwout Bearing (0A5 141 671 F) - $108.35 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Transmission Fluid (G 052 527 A2) - $41.11 x3 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
VW Clutch Alignment Tool (T10097) - $15.99 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Flywheel bolts (N 906 650 01) - $2.02 x8 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Pressure plate bolts (N 903 207 01) - $0.99 x6 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)
Throwout bearing bolts (N 908 470 02) - $1.00 x3 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)

Total: $824.02


Resources:
Calkulin's "Build your own RSR clutch kit" Thread
T is for TURBO's Clutch Replacement Thread
GTI Mod Blog's Clutch Replacement Video


Install Tips:

Overall it wasn't a terrible job but I had a few issues. My goal was to remove the least amount of components possible. I didn't want to drop the subframe or remove the axles. I ended up unbolting both axles at the differential flanges, removing both flanges at the differential, and unbolting the ball joint at the control arm on the driver's side. This allowed enough clearance to move the driver's side axle over into the wheel well (you can see it in a few of the pictures). I also removed the bracket that holds the transmission mount to the transmission. Lastly, I unscrewed the 2 throttle body screws and a disconnected a few electrical connections between the radiator and front of the engine. All of this gave me enough clearance to get the transmission out but it was quite a pain. I didn't really have any other issues besides things generally being difficult to maneuver. I did notice a ~1/2" hole that was open but looks like it should have some kind of plug on the bottom of the transmission. I plugged it from the outside with a simple, ribbed panel fastener from the hardware store. A few notes:


  • When I finally got the transmission off, the bell housing was full of sludgy, gritty crap. Not sure if I had a leaky throwout bearing or what. Took me quite awhile in the parts washer to clean it out but it came out nice.
  • I purchased a used OEM DMFW to replace mine and I'm glad I did. My flywheel was pretty bad looking. I bought Harbor Freight version of 2" Scotch Brite pads and arbor and hit the flywheel surface with the medium grit "scotch brite." It worked great and cleaned the flywheel surface right up. I don't anticipate any problems in the future but only time will tell. The flywheel was a pain to bolt onto the crankshaft. It seemed to only line up one way and there are 8 bolts so 8 possible way to align it.
  • To keep the crank/flywheel from turning when I torqued the 8 flywheel bolts I put a 24mm socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. There is an OEM flywheel retainer tool if you are interested (tool number 3067) that runs about $25.
  • I got the rest of the clutch together without issue. Had to open up the 3 guide holes on the pressure plate with a ~1/4" drill bit as is well documented.
  • The differential flanges are spring loaded but went on easily with 2 people: 1 used a prybar to press the flange in, the other used a ratchet to install the bolt that holds it together.
  • I didn't bench bleed the throwout bearing and it took a ton of fluid (2ish pints) to bleed conventionally but it got there eventually.







__________________________________________________

Rear Main Seal

Parts List:

iAbed RMS & VW T20097 (462-103-171F-KT) - $124.00 + 16.56 shipping (excelerateperformance.com)

Victor Reinz Sealant (703141410) - $7.21 + Free shipping (ECStuning.com)

Total: $147.77


Resources:

VW Service Manual - RMS Installation Procedure
A big thanks to Greg from Excelerate Performance for answering all the questions I pestered him with about the RMS installation. He was so helpful and quick to respond.


Install Tips:
I didn't realize that it would be necessary to press the spring loaded seal into the billet bracket. Luckily I have a hydraulic press and found a PVC coupler that was a close enough diameter to work as a seal driver. It certainly wasn't ideal and took some time but I got it *almost* fully seated. I didn't want to press anymore for fear of deforming the seal. Installing the seal over the crankshaft was simple following Greg from Excelerate Performance's instructions (above) in addition to the service manual. I purchased the sealant he recommended as well as the install tool T20097. If I was forced to do the job without the tool I think I could have found a wax paper cup or similar of the correct diameter but it was cheap enough and worth it to make the job simple. Don't forget to put the "intermediate plate" heat shield/gasket thing back on before you bolt up your flywheel!





__________________________________________________



Overall Impressions & Test Drive


Firstly, I've been having some symptoms that led me to complete this clutch job. I've experienced clutch slipping intermittently at low RPM, high gear scenarios since the spring. The OEM clutch had
91k miles, the last 25k of which have been APR Stage 1. I took it easy on the clutch to the present 106k. The clutch had also gotten grabby and I had a lot of chatter. Gear changes were somewhat rough no matter how well timed my shifts were, especially in lower gears. I had also been experiencing really notchy shifting, to the point that I didn't feel comfortable forcing the car into 1st gear, during this recent cold weather. Lastly, I began experiencing intermittent throwout bearing squeal on engagement, particularly when the car was cold.

During assembly I completely replaced my transmission oil with OEM fluid and re-aligned my Dieselgeek Short Shifter. There seems to be some confusion as to which OEM fluid should be used on ECStuning.com but I was assured by one of their tech's that the fluid I purchased will work fine. I was surprised when I poured it out that it was close to the consistency of motor oil - much thinner than the 75w90
Motul Gear 300 oil I used before. I fired up the car and, immediately upon putting it in gear, the transmission felt great. That new fluid and short shifter alignment did the trick. The clutch pedal feels great, approximately 25% stiffer. The biggest difference is that clutch engagement is back to being buttery smooth. No chatter or grabby feeling. I'll have to get used to driving with the new clutch feel but I'm confident that will only take a few days. I'm excited to get through the break-in period because it feels like it will grab really well and be a blast to drive. I removed my clutch stop as a precaution but the bite is far enough off the floor that I think it will be fine to use.

Overall the drivetrain feels brand new and I couldn't be happier. I'll update this section after clutch break in.

Awesome man! I am glad that flywheel worked great for you! I love my RSR clutch as well! I just added a dual caliper rear brake on my car and have the some build log pics. :)
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Awesome man! I am glad that flywheel worked great for you! I love my RSR clutch as well! I just added a dual caliper rear brake on my car and have the some build log pics. :)
Thanks again for the flywheel! So far I'm enjoying the clutch. Just starting to ease in to putting some power through it.

Just checked out your build log updates - the front TTRS brakes look awesome. Very nicely done. Dual caliper setup on the back looks awesome too but I have to ask, why did you decide to do it? If for no reason other than because you can, that's cool too! Any issues with pedal feel running front & rear brakes that big?
 
Last edited:

BringerOdeath

Ready to race!
Thanks again for the flywheel! So far I'm enjoying the clutch. Just starting to ease in to putting some power through it.

Just checked out your build log updates - the front TTRS brakes look awesome. Very nicely done. Dual caliper setup on the back looks awesome too but I have to ask, why did you decide to do it? If for no reason other than because you can, that's cool too! Any issues with pedal feel running front & rear brakes that big?
I came across the touareg/Cayenne calipers for 50 bucks a piece and I had gotten the mk7 rear perf calipers for a really good price, so the "I did it because I can" and I am running out of mods to do.... HA!

I run the TTRS master cylinder, so it feels great and stopping power is great too!

I think I may jump in the AWD retrofit boat sometime this year, I think....Next best thing after doing that LSD install when I changed the clutch
 

Jeffs2013GTI

Ready to race!
I always enjoy reading folks build threads. I think its amazing how people tackle these cars themselves.

The Timing Chain/Tensioner replacement and Rear seal/Clutch replacement is no easy task. Good Job Tackling that yourself :clap::clap::clap:

I like messing around with cars have since I had my first car many years ago. For some reason though this GTI scares me. I unfortunately injured my back at work a while ago which limits allot of what I can do now, but even if my back was in good shape, I would be hesitant to do what your doing.

My cars I have had prior to the GTI were much easier to work on. Less plastic bits and less mess under the hood.

So again Bravo for tackling all this yourself, I sub'd to keep track of your progress. :clap::clap::clap::thumbsup:


Jeff
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
I came across the touareg/Cayenne calipers for 50 bucks a piece and I had gotten the mk7 rear perf calipers for a really good price, so the "I did it because I can" and I am running out of mods to do.... HA!

I run the TTRS master cylinder, so it feels great and stopping power is great too!

I think I may jump in the AWD retrofit boat sometime this year, I think....Next best thing after doing that LSD install when I changed the clutch
Awesome, that makes quite a brake setup. I'd love to find a used TTRS master for a reasonable price. Best of luck with the AWD retrofit, that seems like quite an undertaking. I'll be following your build. You plan on finding a wrecked donor car?

I always enjoy reading folks build threads. I think its amazing how people tackle these cars themselves.

The Timing Chain/Tensioner replacement and Rear seal/Clutch replacement is no easy task. Good Job Tackling that yourself :clap::clap::clap:

I like messing around with cars have since I had my first car many years ago. For some reason though this GTI scares me. I unfortunately injured my back at work a while ago which limits allot of what I can do now, but even if my back was in good shape, I would be hesitant to do what your doing.

My cars I have had prior to the GTI were much easier to work on. Less plastic bits and less mess under the hood.

So again Bravo for tackling all this yourself, I sub'd to keep track of your progress. :clap::clap::clap::thumbsup:


Jeff
Thanks for the kind words. This is the first car that I've decided to tackle more than a brake job or similar maintenance. I figure if I can complete the most difficult jobs on this car then I should be able to tackle just about anything in the future on whatever car I decide to own--basically this is a great learning experience.

I've posted as much information as I could for the timing chain and clutch/RMS because I really do think that most people with mechanical inclination and wrenching experience could accomplish them. It takes a lot of research and patience, but the information is out there. Hopefully the information and pictures I've posted give someone the confidence to tackle a job themselves.

Thanks for subbing, I should have some more good stuff for you in the next few months! I'm hoping to do the following big items by Summer:

  • Cobb Accessport & Stratified tune
  • Put on a set of Porsche front brakes (after I repair them that is, I had a very poor experience purchasing the set from a forum member)
  • Vinyl wrap the car--color TBD, but I'm thinking satin orange
 

Lumbee1

New member
I too am nervous about working on the GTI. There's a lot of plastic and torque to yield bolts. I have the tools and experience but this car is delicate compared to my other beast.


1995 Toyota Land Cruiser
 
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