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torga's Daily Build - black, 6mt, two-door shenanigans
- Thread starter torga
- Start date
KollinWithaK
Autocross Champion
Mmmm I like dis
torga
Autocross Champion
I put in a Euro switch and trigger wire today and found out that this whole time, I've misunderstood what it actually does. I thought the setting between Auto and Low Beams would let me switch on/off the DRLs myself and be able to use fog lights simultaneously with DRL. But instead these teeny 194 bulbs came on?
I guess I'll eventually try to source a light sensor unit so that the Auto function at least works.
I guess I'll eventually try to source a light sensor unit so that the Auto function at least works.
GolNat
Autocross Champion
If you are talking about those little bulbs between the headlights and DRL's those are the city lights.
DRL on/off is enabled with OBD11 or VagCom then toggled on/off with the MFD.
I have an automatic light sensor you can have. I'm not going to use it since I have my lights set to turn off with my ignition in case I leave them on.
DRL on/off is enabled with OBD11 or VagCom then toggled on/off with the MFD.
I have an automatic light sensor you can have. I'm not going to use it since I have my lights set to turn off with my ignition in case I leave them on.
torga
Autocross Champion
So you're saying I can enable DRL on/off in city light mode through OBD11? That's exactly what I want! Gonna do that later today.
If you really don't see a use for your sensor, I'll gladly take it off your hands
1ashchuckton
Autocross Champion
I was able to make the DRL switchable with Carista. Using the fogs as DRL's.
Allchokedup
Autocross Champion
Car looks good man! Is it lowered, im assuming it is if so by how much? Those 18in wheels?
Also, is that a MR2 or a Celina in the garage?
Also, is that a MR2 or a Celina in the garage?
torga
Autocross Champion
Thanks! They're 18" wheels and it's lowered like 1.5" IIRC.
It was a '95 Celica, and it's no longer mine. Sold it after 10 years! Lots of memories with that car.
torga
Autocross Champion
This weekend was very productive, I was able to get my RSR clutch kit installed thanks to big help from @CowTownRacer. I'm awful at remembering to take photos when I'm focused on something, so there won't be any. Sorry y'all.
Parts that went in on Saturday:
iAbed Billet RMS
DIY RSR clutch kit
-- Sachs DMFW
-- Sachs A4 Quattro clutch disk
-- Sachs TT-RS pressure plate
aluminum TOB
Spulen billet bleeder block
USP stainless clutch line
Output shaft seals, both sides
Full parts list with P/N
The day started off very efficiently, got pretty much all the accessories off before I managed to cut the back of my hand by smacking it on the bell housing. Pretty good pair of lacerations, almost 1cm across each. I wish I had snapped a photo before it started bleeding because I could see straight through all the skin layers and into some muscle fibers and possibly tendon... it was pretty cool. Matt helped me get all patched up with some closure strips and we kept working.
My original clutch and flywheel were looking very worse for wear, especially the DMFW. You could get the outer section of it to move at least half an inch by applying barely any force by hand. The new flywheel was rock solid.
We had two small hiccups.
1.) It completely slipped my mind that the transmission bracket (for the mount) had to come off in order to slip the bellhousing around the subframe... and all three of those bolts are TTY. We got pretty lucky that the nearby dealership had two of the bolts in stock and Matt ended up having a spare for the third. Good to go.
2.) We started torquing down the pressure plate bolts (which are TTY), when I realized that we hadn't put the thin steel plate "gasket" against the block....... pause. After much deliberation, considering pausing for a day or two in order to get new PP bolts, we decided to just make it a two-piece gasket and we cut it with a wheel. We added some RTV where we cut it in order the restore the "gasket", and away we went.
We ended up working into the night, but everything else went really smoothly. Had every tool we could possibly need.
My impressions on the clutch are great so far. Pedal is much stiffer than stock, maybe 100% more, but we found out my brake fluid was pretty dirty, so that may have contributed. We ended up flushing a bit over a liter while bleeding the system. Clutch engagement is sharp, but refined -- still very easy to smoothly slip into gear. Starting in 1st from a stop feels more confident than before, less chattery. Incredibly glad I went this route. Can't wait for it to be fully broken in so I can step on it a bit more.
Here's a list of all the resources I used to prepare for this DIY.
-- Excellent post by @Tony48
-- Awesome full DIY by @T is for TURBO
-- Output Shaft Info over on VWVorttex
-- these two excellent videos by carwerks101 (vid one, and vid two)
Parts that went in on Saturday:
iAbed Billet RMS
DIY RSR clutch kit
-- Sachs DMFW
-- Sachs A4 Quattro clutch disk
-- Sachs TT-RS pressure plate
aluminum TOB
Spulen billet bleeder block
USP stainless clutch line
Output shaft seals, both sides
Full parts list with P/N
The day started off very efficiently, got pretty much all the accessories off before I managed to cut the back of my hand by smacking it on the bell housing. Pretty good pair of lacerations, almost 1cm across each. I wish I had snapped a photo before it started bleeding because I could see straight through all the skin layers and into some muscle fibers and possibly tendon... it was pretty cool. Matt helped me get all patched up with some closure strips and we kept working.
My original clutch and flywheel were looking very worse for wear, especially the DMFW. You could get the outer section of it to move at least half an inch by applying barely any force by hand. The new flywheel was rock solid.
We had two small hiccups.
1.) It completely slipped my mind that the transmission bracket (for the mount) had to come off in order to slip the bellhousing around the subframe... and all three of those bolts are TTY. We got pretty lucky that the nearby dealership had two of the bolts in stock and Matt ended up having a spare for the third. Good to go.
2.) We started torquing down the pressure plate bolts (which are TTY), when I realized that we hadn't put the thin steel plate "gasket" against the block....... pause. After much deliberation, considering pausing for a day or two in order to get new PP bolts, we decided to just make it a two-piece gasket and we cut it with a wheel. We added some RTV where we cut it in order the restore the "gasket", and away we went.
We ended up working into the night, but everything else went really smoothly. Had every tool we could possibly need.
My impressions on the clutch are great so far. Pedal is much stiffer than stock, maybe 100% more, but we found out my brake fluid was pretty dirty, so that may have contributed. We ended up flushing a bit over a liter while bleeding the system. Clutch engagement is sharp, but refined -- still very easy to smoothly slip into gear. Starting in 1st from a stop feels more confident than before, less chattery. Incredibly glad I went this route. Can't wait for it to be fully broken in so I can step on it a bit more.
Here's a list of all the resources I used to prepare for this DIY.
-- Excellent post by @Tony48
-- Awesome full DIY by @T is for TURBO
-- Output Shaft Info over on VWVorttex
-- these two excellent videos by carwerks101 (vid one, and vid two)
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brat_burner
Autocross Champion
Nice, probably feels good to have that done! The bolts I got for my engine mounts didn't act like TTY to me. I didn't really feel any stretch in them when tightening.
torga
Autocross Champion
Feels awesome. My TOB was absolutely on its last legs. 1st and reverse were sometimes very annoying to get into, and it would squeal when starting from 1st or reverse at times (mostly when cold).
We inspected the ones we took out and there was some subtle necking on the threads, so that made us pretty sure they were TTY. Just to be super clear, these weren't the bolts used to secure the trans mount to the transmission, these were the bolts that secure the bracket that the trans mount gets mounted to, to the transmission.
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torga
Autocross Champion
Clutch continues to be rock solid, engagement is so much better nowadays. I also got the opportunity to grab an Agency Power 1 lb. shift knob earlier this week. Should be here either today or tomorrow, looking forward to the heavier shifter feel. Gonna try and clean up the alcantera on my BFI knob and let it go for cheap.
torga
Autocross Champion
So last week I found a local yard that had a B6 Passat 4Motion in their yard. I called up to confirm and to make plans to head down, but they said they could get one of their employees to pull the brakes and ship them to me for just an extra $10. So I agreed. They said the car had two front brakes and a rear brake, so I ordered the three and figured I'd worry about the final rear later.
I get the brakes today, two matching calipers and one different. The matching calipers look like they came off a non-AWD Passat -- they match the front FWD calipers, and the front calipers on my own GTI. The rear brake I got, however... is a 4Motion front caliper. So they accidentally got one correct, while overall getting everything wrong. Cool.
Here's a photo of them together, with the 4Motion front caliper on the left.
Gonna try and get a refund this weekend and go pull off what I need myself. Needless to say, pretty damn annoying.
I get the brakes today, two matching calipers and one different. The matching calipers look like they came off a non-AWD Passat -- they match the front FWD calipers, and the front calipers on my own GTI. The rear brake I got, however... is a 4Motion front caliper. So they accidentally got one correct, while overall getting everything wrong. Cool.
Here's a photo of them together, with the 4Motion front caliper on the left.
Gonna try and get a refund this weekend and go pull off what I need myself. Needless to say, pretty damn annoying.
torga
Autocross Champion
Agency Power shift knob is installed, and it's a much better feeling than the BFI. The BFI was never bad, but the AP knob is twice as heavy (455g vs BFI's 225g), so shifts just feel that much more solid. Plus, it looks great! The knob itself sits lower on the shift arm, so the overall height decreased by about 1". The AP knob is a heavy, brass core with a Delrin outer to stave away burned hands.
