v-dug
Go Kart Champion
Well, I've never done a build thread because I don't do these all-out, crazy builds that you see some guys doing on here or other enthusiast forums.
However, this is my third vehicle I've bought knowing I was going to be tweaking, tuning, improving, and overall enjoying the modifications I would be doing to it -- to improve it and make it my own.
As an aside, I love buying vehicles that have a large enthusiast community. Lots of great information to be gleaned, learn from other people's experience, and count on a good aftermarket community. My first such vehicle was the Subaru Forester XT, an insanely fast sleeper that benefits from being what amounts to a detuned wagon version of the STi (i.e. lots of aftermarket and OEM parts for it). The second was my wife's Toyota FJ Cruiser. Again, a large enthusiast community, lots of cool parts, get togethers and trail runs, etc. You should see my pics from driving 12-13k ft mountain passes at the FJ Summit!
So here I am with my first VW. I've done a couple of small things to it already, and have a few more coming in the next week. I'm only planning three or four big ticket items. I guess I'll first list what I HAVE done to it, then what I'm PLANNING to do to it. But the first pic will always be the most current pic.
OUTDATED, I need to get a new pic. But here's 10/2/12:
STARTED OUT WITH:
- 2011 VW GTI, Base Model.
- Tornado Red
- OEM Detroits
- Bought it 7/2012, 1 year old with 10k miles on it. Certified, so 4 year bumper-to-bumper warranty
MODS COMPLETED:
(1) First mod, I unhooked the Soundaktor. Small, but it was the first step.
(2) Tint. Due to NC laws, I could only use 40% tint (visible light transmission tests at 33%, just above the legal limit of 32%. Pinnacle FormulaOne tint (40% light transmission, 47% heat reduction)
August 2012:
(3) WHEELS & TIRES! (VERSION1, street and track): RTX "Rennen" wheels. Cheap replicas (more info below). Tires are Kumho LE Sport (Max Performance Summer). Kumho LE Sport in stock size. These tires did OK for autocross, sticky on the street, but wore out pretty darn fast. Cheap and fast wearing.
WHEELS & TIRES! (VERSION2, track only): Detroits w/ Bridgestone RE-11 in 225/40/18 (extreme performance summer). I love the bridgestone family of autocross tires. Ran these for autocross for a year and then on street the next year when I got my RPF1s for autocross. Replacement is called RE-71R, and wear even faster
WHEELS & TIRES! (VERSION3, street only): Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 (Ultra high performance all-season). WOW, these are grippy tires for All-season tires. Mid-way between the next best UHP all-season and a good summer only tire. However, they wore freaking fast. I got 18k out of a set. However, treadwear warranty to 45k means I got a new set for half price!
WHEELS & TIRES! (VERSION4, track only): Enkei RPF1 in 17x7.5" size w/ Dunlop Direzza ZII (not Star Specs) in 225/45/17 (extreme performance summer). The Enkei wheels are 15.2lbs!!! There is a noticeable power to the ground difference with the lighter wheels. As for tires, I got the non-star specs on closeout to save $400. These are my autocross only setup.
(4) VAG-COM tweaks:
(5) Brake Pads - crossing this off the list 11/2012 as I put on a set of Stoptechs. Very happy with their performance so far, held up to one autocross very well. Holy brake dust batman!
(6) NewSouth Performance Redline boost gauge, column mount. This gauge is a GORGEOUS match for the GTI interior and is very, very fast. I installed it a couple days after Christmas and I'm loving it! UPDATE: still love how this gauge matches the interior perfectly. I do have to admin, however, that the needle movements are a little notchy and I have to tap it to get it to hit "0" after I turn off the car. A little nit-picky, but there it is.
(7) APR STAGE 1 BABY! @25k miles.
(8) DEINSTALLED. 5/22/13 to 6/11/15. Southbend Stage 3 drop-in clutch installed! After going Stage 1, my stock clutch would sometimes slip, especially when colder. Wouldn't slip at all when the ambient temperate rose to 75 degrees or higher, but I didn't want to have to keep an eye on the RPMs every time I need to pass someone. I originally did a Southbend Stage 3 drop-in disk.
The biggest problem by far was after the install I had intermittent problems with the car not wanting to come out of gear. Specifically, the clutch was not disengaging. I don't know that this was due to the SB Stg3 disk; in fact, being an intermittent issue really sounds like a spotty slave cylinder. Another option, Nothing Leaves Stock sells a shim for the TOB that is supposed to fix this very issue.
However, the slave cylinder and TOB are inside the transmission on these cars. That meant having to drop the transmission to do either fix. Not wanting to spend $600 in labor for something that might not fix the issue, and then have to pay it again, I decided to go with a whole different setup that should hopefully fix the problems once and for all. See "Build your own RSR kit" below.
(9) 12/21/13 @ 39k miles. Magnaflow catback exhaust! The install on this thing was simple. 45 minutes from the start of removing the old one to starting the new one. I do need to get back under it to adjust it a little.
UPDATE 6/12/15: some days I do think about going back to stock. The Magnaflow is a little loud at times. I probably think about it a lot less now, I'm kinda used to it. The only time I can think of lately that it annoyed me was going up a steep mountain for a few miles at about 60mph. That meant lower RPM and more drone. Usually, I'm on the interstate at 75-80mph and it's not as bad, but can still be a little loud on some interstate hills early in the day. But I can't bring myself to go back to stock, it's just way too quiet.
(10) 6/11/15 @ 65k miles. "Build your own RSR clutch kit" aka "TT-RS Pressure Plate + TDI Clutch". To replace my Southbend Stage 3 clutch solution, to hold Stage 1 power, and to retain as much stock feel as possible, I went with the idea of sourcing all the parts necessary to build what HSTuning sells as the RSR kit. Audi TT-RS pressure plate, Golf TDI/R clutch, and new throw out bearing and slave cyclinder. As noted above, I was trying to remedy my car sticking in gear all the time with the SB Stg3 setup. That may have been due to a bad slave cylinder, but I only wanted to drop the transmission once more ($600) so I decided to do it all at once. Impressions:
(11) Stereo head unit (and now speakers, 3/16). Shortly after buying the GTI, but I forgot to log it
. I put in a Pioneer double-din touch screen. Better than stock by a long shot, but my model apparently has the older processor or code issues that annoy me. Still it puts out a nice signal and has an 8 band equalizer. Added to that later (see Post #50) I replaced all the speakers and added a sub. My system sounds REEEEEEEEEAALY nice now! Great clarity, definition, and volume if I want it.
(12) ECS subframe spacer/shim kit. Back in 2013 when I first took the GTI to Tail of the Dragon (318 turns in 11 miles) I discovered the subframe clunk. I was about half-way through my first run of the dragon and turn--POP, turn--POP, turn--POP. Scared me at first, then discovered on here that it's just the subframe shifting. I checked the subframe bolts and they were a little loose. Tightened them up, but it came back. The Tyrolsport subframe collars look like a good solution, but are a little expensive. I decided to try the ECS subframe spacer/shim kit, and I'm glad I did. For less than $30 it has fixed the problem. Even having the subframe dropped again (the second clutch job) they were re-installed and are still keeping the subframe still. Very happy with this purchase!
(13) Enkei RPF-1 wheels!!! I know I mentioned these above, but they deserve a separate call-out. I bought these in 2015 for autocross, and let me tell you - at 15.2lbs per wheel versus 29lbs for the OEM Detroits, these make a LARGE difference at stock power levels. They really do. Obviously I hope my driving has improved, but I've had my best overall PAX finishes since I've moved to these wheels. Top ten for every event except one (super long power course with combined clubs), which is great considering we have several national trophy winners in our group. If you're going to spend money on wheels, and want function > form, go for lightweight RPF1s. They only question is stock width (for autocross stock/street class), or wide for wider tires
MODS PLANNED:
(1) Suspension. For the purposes of serious handling, NOT looks. I had originally planned on doing suspension first, but this car actually handles pretty good out of the box. Possibly springs, Koni yellows, swaybars, anti-lift kit down the road.
Waiting on the suspension gives me something to look forward to. I'm afraid if I do everything to this car in the first year and get it all set up like I want, I'll get bored with it sooner. So spacing them out will keep me interested.
Also, with a tune I can switch back to stock mode and run stock class at autocross. Once I do suspension, I'll be in ST with no going back. I've got some learning to do since I'm used to AWD.
That's it for now. I'll update as things change, but this car won't be a mod whore, mostly because I have other demands on my income :word:
However, this is my third vehicle I've bought knowing I was going to be tweaking, tuning, improving, and overall enjoying the modifications I would be doing to it -- to improve it and make it my own.
As an aside, I love buying vehicles that have a large enthusiast community. Lots of great information to be gleaned, learn from other people's experience, and count on a good aftermarket community. My first such vehicle was the Subaru Forester XT, an insanely fast sleeper that benefits from being what amounts to a detuned wagon version of the STi (i.e. lots of aftermarket and OEM parts for it). The second was my wife's Toyota FJ Cruiser. Again, a large enthusiast community, lots of cool parts, get togethers and trail runs, etc. You should see my pics from driving 12-13k ft mountain passes at the FJ Summit!
So here I am with my first VW. I've done a couple of small things to it already, and have a few more coming in the next week. I'm only planning three or four big ticket items. I guess I'll first list what I HAVE done to it, then what I'm PLANNING to do to it. But the first pic will always be the most current pic.
OUTDATED, I need to get a new pic. But here's 10/2/12:

STARTED OUT WITH:
- 2011 VW GTI, Base Model.
- Tornado Red
- OEM Detroits
- Bought it 7/2012, 1 year old with 10k miles on it. Certified, so 4 year bumper-to-bumper warranty
MODS COMPLETED:
(1) First mod, I unhooked the Soundaktor. Small, but it was the first step.
(2) Tint. Due to NC laws, I could only use 40% tint (visible light transmission tests at 33%, just above the legal limit of 32%. Pinnacle FormulaOne tint (40% light transmission, 47% heat reduction)
August 2012:

(3) WHEELS & TIRES! (VERSION1, street and track): RTX "Rennen" wheels. Cheap replicas (more info below). Tires are Kumho LE Sport (Max Performance Summer). Kumho LE Sport in stock size. These tires did OK for autocross, sticky on the street, but wore out pretty darn fast. Cheap and fast wearing.
WHEELS & TIRES! (VERSION2, track only): Detroits w/ Bridgestone RE-11 in 225/40/18 (extreme performance summer). I love the bridgestone family of autocross tires. Ran these for autocross for a year and then on street the next year when I got my RPF1s for autocross. Replacement is called RE-71R, and wear even faster
WHEELS & TIRES! (VERSION3, street only): Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 (Ultra high performance all-season). WOW, these are grippy tires for All-season tires. Mid-way between the next best UHP all-season and a good summer only tire. However, they wore freaking fast. I got 18k out of a set. However, treadwear warranty to 45k means I got a new set for half price!
WHEELS & TIRES! (VERSION4, track only): Enkei RPF1 in 17x7.5" size w/ Dunlop Direzza ZII (not Star Specs) in 225/45/17 (extreme performance summer). The Enkei wheels are 15.2lbs!!! There is a noticeable power to the ground difference with the lighter wheels. As for tires, I got the non-star specs on closeout to save $400. These are my autocross only setup.
(4) VAG-COM tweaks:
- Electronic Differential Lock (XDS) Strength: set to 2 (LOVE IT!)
- Windows: Roll Up/Down with Key
- Lighting: Fogs with High Beams
- Lighting: Fogs as Cornering Lights
- Lighting: Enable DRL Turn On/Off in MFI (2011+ Only)
- Instruments: Gauge Cluster Staging
- Adjusting Service Intervals (set to 5k)
- Lighting: Emergency Brake Flashing
- Windows: Roll Up/Down with Key
- Lighting: Fogs with High Beams
- Lighting: Fogs as Cornering Lights
- Lighting: Enable DRL Turn On/Off in MFI (2011+ Only)
- Instruments: Gauge Cluster Staging
- Adjusting Service Intervals (set to 5k)
- Lighting: Emergency Brake Flashing
(5) Brake Pads - crossing this off the list 11/2012 as I put on a set of Stoptechs. Very happy with their performance so far, held up to one autocross very well. Holy brake dust batman!
(6) NewSouth Performance Redline boost gauge, column mount. This gauge is a GORGEOUS match for the GTI interior and is very, very fast. I installed it a couple days after Christmas and I'm loving it! UPDATE: still love how this gauge matches the interior perfectly. I do have to admin, however, that the needle movements are a little notchy and I have to tap it to get it to hit "0" after I turn off the car. A little nit-picky, but there it is.
(7) APR STAGE 1 BABY! @25k miles.
First Impressions: I have to say, Stage 1 makes crazy power. It will break loose in 2nd gear under WOT (just testing it). I'm very impressed and I don't see why anyone would want more power. OK, yes, I get the "mod bug" and I'm sure I'll get used to it, but this is more power than the car needs. Actually, I found myself saying "SH*T" when I was testing WOT!
Details: I did the fully loaded ECU, and got maps for 91, 93, and 100. I'll never use the 100, but it will be there for the next owner if they want it. I switched between 91 and 93, and there wasn't a huge difference in lower gears, but I noticed a difference in 6th on the highway. At mild throttle/medium boost (such as pulling around someone on the interstate), 91 feels as pathetic as stock did. But 93 pulls so much easier, even at the same PSI. So I'll likely leave it in 93 mode (had considered 91 just for the sake of babying it).
Details: I did the fully loaded ECU, and got maps for 91, 93, and 100. I'll never use the 100, but it will be there for the next owner if they want it. I switched between 91 and 93, and there wasn't a huge difference in lower gears, but I noticed a difference in 6th on the highway. At mild throttle/medium boost (such as pulling around someone on the interstate), 91 feels as pathetic as stock did. But 93 pulls so much easier, even at the same PSI. So I'll likely leave it in 93 mode (had considered 91 just for the sake of babying it).
(8) DEINSTALLED. 5/22/13 to 6/11/15. Southbend Stage 3 drop-in clutch installed! After going Stage 1, my stock clutch would sometimes slip, especially when colder. Wouldn't slip at all when the ambient temperate rose to 75 degrees or higher, but I didn't want to have to keep an eye on the RPMs every time I need to pass someone. I originally did a Southbend Stage 3 drop-in disk.
My impressions of it: it gripped VERY well, I never had any problem holding the power. However, day-to-day driving ease took a slight hit. This clutch has a very small window from not-engaged to fully-engaged. This makes for a less smooth driving experience. Also, some people describe it as "chattering", which doesn't mean a chattering sound but the fact it "shudders" a bit when engaging. This never went away for me, although the degree to which it does it depends on how much load you're putting on it, if you're on a hill, A/C on, etc. Finally, the stock clutch took hold near the top of the pedal, and this one was even higher. This also impacted ability to drive smoothly and predictably.
The biggest problem by far was after the install I had intermittent problems with the car not wanting to come out of gear. Specifically, the clutch was not disengaging. I don't know that this was due to the SB Stg3 disk; in fact, being an intermittent issue really sounds like a spotty slave cylinder. Another option, Nothing Leaves Stock sells a shim for the TOB that is supposed to fix this very issue.
However, the slave cylinder and TOB are inside the transmission on these cars. That meant having to drop the transmission to do either fix. Not wanting to spend $600 in labor for something that might not fix the issue, and then have to pay it again, I decided to go with a whole different setup that should hopefully fix the problems once and for all. See "Build your own RSR kit" below.
(9) 12/21/13 @ 39k miles. Magnaflow catback exhaust! The install on this thing was simple. 45 minutes from the start of removing the old one to starting the new one. I do need to get back under it to adjust it a little.
Impressions? It's a little louder than I expected, but not bad at all. And it sounds GREAT when you get on it! After driving on the road for long periods, then driving around town, it's a little loud in the 2k RPM range. But in general, if you drive it easy you don't even notice it. Trust me, it's not bad: I've asked the wife and she hasn't been bothered by it at all. And she complained about the STi turboback I had on my Forester XT (though only about the way the exhaust buffeted at idle). So far, Im happy with the purchase!
UPDATE 6/12/15: some days I do think about going back to stock. The Magnaflow is a little loud at times. I probably think about it a lot less now, I'm kinda used to it. The only time I can think of lately that it annoyed me was going up a steep mountain for a few miles at about 60mph. That meant lower RPM and more drone. Usually, I'm on the interstate at 75-80mph and it's not as bad, but can still be a little loud on some interstate hills early in the day. But I can't bring myself to go back to stock, it's just way too quiet.
(10) 6/11/15 @ 65k miles. "Build your own RSR clutch kit" aka "TT-RS Pressure Plate + TDI Clutch". To replace my Southbend Stage 3 clutch solution, to hold Stage 1 power, and to retain as much stock feel as possible, I went with the idea of sourcing all the parts necessary to build what HSTuning sells as the RSR kit. Audi TT-RS pressure plate, Golf TDI/R clutch, and new throw out bearing and slave cyclinder. As noted above, I was trying to remedy my car sticking in gear all the time with the SB Stg3 setup. That may have been due to a bad slave cylinder, but I only wanted to drop the transmission once more ($600) so I decided to do it all at once. Impressions:
I only have 150 miles on it so far, but engagement of this setup is much better than the SB Stg3. It's closer to the floor and smooth like the stock clutch it is! Sure, the pedal's stiffer, but (1) it's supposed to soften up after it gets broke in and (2) it's not that stiff; it feels right. Since I'm still breaking it in I can only comment on the feel, but oh what a feel it is! The SB Stg3 high engagement point and grabby-ness made smooth shifting and heel/toe a little more work; this new setup is so much easier and enjoyable to drive.
(11) Stereo head unit (and now speakers, 3/16). Shortly after buying the GTI, but I forgot to log it
(12) ECS subframe spacer/shim kit. Back in 2013 when I first took the GTI to Tail of the Dragon (318 turns in 11 miles) I discovered the subframe clunk. I was about half-way through my first run of the dragon and turn--POP, turn--POP, turn--POP. Scared me at first, then discovered on here that it's just the subframe shifting. I checked the subframe bolts and they were a little loose. Tightened them up, but it came back. The Tyrolsport subframe collars look like a good solution, but are a little expensive. I decided to try the ECS subframe spacer/shim kit, and I'm glad I did. For less than $30 it has fixed the problem. Even having the subframe dropped again (the second clutch job) they were re-installed and are still keeping the subframe still. Very happy with this purchase!
(13) Enkei RPF-1 wheels!!! I know I mentioned these above, but they deserve a separate call-out. I bought these in 2015 for autocross, and let me tell you - at 15.2lbs per wheel versus 29lbs for the OEM Detroits, these make a LARGE difference at stock power levels. They really do. Obviously I hope my driving has improved, but I've had my best overall PAX finishes since I've moved to these wheels. Top ten for every event except one (super long power course with combined clubs), which is great considering we have several national trophy winners in our group. If you're going to spend money on wheels, and want function > form, go for lightweight RPF1s. They only question is stock width (for autocross stock/street class), or wide for wider tires
MODS PLANNED:
(1) Suspension. For the purposes of serious handling, NOT looks. I had originally planned on doing suspension first, but this car actually handles pretty good out of the box. Possibly springs, Koni yellows, swaybars, anti-lift kit down the road.
Waiting on the suspension gives me something to look forward to. I'm afraid if I do everything to this car in the first year and get it all set up like I want, I'll get bored with it sooner. So spacing them out will keep me interested.
Also, with a tune I can switch back to stock mode and run stock class at autocross. Once I do suspension, I'll be in ST with no going back. I've got some learning to do since I'm used to AWD.
That's it for now. I'll update as things change, but this car won't be a mod whore, mostly because I have other demands on my income :word:
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