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V-dug's build thread for "redsled"

v-dug

Go Kart Champion
I'm jealous of the Tornado Red color!

Thanks! This is my first red car; I had actually wanted a white GTI but settled for this because I got a good deal on it. Turns out, I really, really like it in red. If I end up getting a Golf R or another GTI, it will likely be red :w00t:
 

v-dug

Go Kart Champion
I actually came here to edit and update the thread:

(1) LOVE the build your own RSR kit in the GTI. It has held Stage 1 power with no problem and it feels completely OEM. No disadvantage in having this kit at all. The pedal engagement eventually came up higher, but all manuals seem to do that to me. I haven't had a single problem with it. VERY happy, just wish I had done this to start with (but that was before it came out).

(2) I need to add the ECS subframe shim/spacer kit to my mod list. I did that about 1.5 years ago to resolve the dreaded subframe clunk. It is a CHEAP fix comparatively and resolved my issues. Very happy with that too!
 
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SuperSkyline891

Passed Driver's Ed
Have you run the RE-71R's yet? A couple of the guys I autocross with ran them this year and they made a huge difference. Knocked 1.5 seconds off a 50 second course on an NB Miata compared to another NB that it used to be even with on R-S3's
 

v-dug

Go Kart Champion
I haven't personally ran them but from what I've seen and most people I've talked to, they're the "IT" tire to have this year. Wear quick, but loads of grip.

I went with the Direzza II (non-star spec) because they were the cheapest decent tire I could get ($400 vs $800, which is what the RE-71Rs were selling for at first). I spent the extra money on my Enkei RPF-1 wheels, which have made a HUGE difference. They are 15.2lbs compared to the Detroits at 29lbs. $1000, but worth it!

I'm looking forward to wearing out the Direzzas so I can get a set of RE-71Rs!
 

v-dug

Go Kart Champion
New mod: speakers! Total spend on speakers + installation accessories, around $500 (not inlcuding the previously purchased headunit, which is a necessity). The previous installation of a decent head unit helped the sound of the factory base speakers, but they still just fell flat. Lack of usable bass range, lack of definition, no need to go on about how mediocre they were.

Front: Polk Audio DB6501 components. 5 stars. These have separate 6.5" woofers, tweeters, and crossovers. These speakers have been out for a while, and get great reviews, and for good reason. The definition and clarity is outstanding. I am hearing things in songs I've never heard before. The definition of drum hits (take the intro on Foreplay / Long Time by Boston) is amazing. Can hear guitar strings accidentally buzzing on fingers kind of clarity. Very little tweaking needed from the equalizer on the head unit. I did have to go with the -3db setting for the tweeters on the crossovers. And I should have pointed them more toward the seats instead of straight across like the stock tweeters. If I roll the windows all the way down I lose a little bit of the highs because they are bouncing off the windows. Still sound good, but I notice it. Love these!

Rear: Polk Audio DB651 coaxials. 4 stars. These are a woofer and tweeter in one, with built in filters. I'm a little disappointed in them. Guitars in some rock are too warm and almost drone a little. Personally, I went with these in the rear so there wouldn't be tweeters right at my kids' faces, and I'm still glad I did for that reason. The stock location in a two-door is chest level, and the kids would have complained when I turned up the volume. With these, they can actually talk to each other and I can still hear the music over them.

Subwoofer: I went with a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-10 for $200. WOW. 5 stars for sure. I wanted something that (1) didn't take up a lot of room (roughly 18" wide by 9" deep) and (2) was easy to remove for autocross. I need to add a pic to show how little room this takes up. It has two easy-disconnect connectors that take care of the power/ground/remote and the RCA inputs. I was worried that this wouldn't produce enough bass, but on the contrary, I only have it turned up just past 2/5ths of the way. Inside the car it will produce enough bass to run you out. It has plenty of power for the casual listener or audiophile. Now, it won't rattle the plates in your neighbor's kitchen, but that wasn't what I was looking for. It also has a remote knob so I can adjust on the fly. I didn't get fancy, I just ran that cord up through the little tray where the 12V outlet is under the radio, and the remote sits in it. I may eventually pull the remote apart and have the knob mounted through one of the spare buttons right in front of it, but I may not. This works and is easy to remove down the road.

I will say, be careful adding aftermarket speakers that require higher power to stock head units; you need a head unit that supplies enough power to drive them or you'll have no bass (if you don't add a sub). My Pioneer puts out 14watt RMS, enough to drive the 10-100watt db6501. I don't know what the base head unit puts out, but I'd always start with replacing it so you get a good signal to base any additional pieces from.

Last thing, I added Dynamat to the doors, rear seat area, rear panel area, spare tire area, etc. Not full coverage, but large enough pieces to dampen road noise and vibrations introduced with the speakers. I was worried about not having enough so I ordered 9 sheets; 3 was all I used. It did quieten the road noise a little, nothing crazy but I can tell. Oh, and a Boss 8ga wiring kit from Amazon, it was cheap and exactly what I needed to power the amp and get the RCA back there. I like how the GTI has a positive terminal block with open slots on the front of the fuse box in the hood! That is awesome!

This project took a while. At least 16 hours total. It's not incredibly difficult, it just takes time to get everything pulled apart when you're trying to make sure you don't break anything. I removed 4 panels and only had to replace 3 clips. Going through the molex clip to the front doors was a challenge until I figured out what I was doing wrong; then it was pretty simple. Would I do it again? Yes. Would I leave the speakers in there if I traded it in? Heck yeah!
 

v-dug

Go Kart Champion
RADIATOR TIME!

Around 88k miles and the metal clip on the fan wiring finally wore a hole in my radiator. Correction: there's been a pinhole for a little while (some fluid mysteriously disappearing) and it finally got bad enough I had to replace it. OEM radiator from Keffer for $300, VW coolant, and distilled water and I'm ready to go!

Most people pull the bumper to do it, but it is just as easy (if not easier) to do it without pulling the bumper. And no downside to doing it this way. I pulled my GTI up on ramps and it was super easy to do the fans and radiator from the bottom. I just had to pull the intake off and the charge pipe (?) that leads to the intake manifold to get to everything.

Actually, I removed the old from above, but the fan rack was against the radiator. Later, with the radiator hoses off, it was super easy to pull the new ones up from below and bolt them in.

A couple of hours and I saved a ton over what the dealer would have charged me.
 
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v-dug

Go Kart Champion
Out of order, but a few weeks back I also had the intake manifold fail - and had it covered under the extended warranty! I had VW of South Charlotte do the job (for free of course). And the best part? For less than $200 I had them do the carbon cleaning at the same time!

That's right, I was over 85k miles and had yet to need carbon cleaning. I believe the word on the street is right - keeping it over 3k RPMs for extended periods helps keep the buildup down, as my 120 mile commute is at 75-80mph, about right for 3k RPMs.
 
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