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Water Pump Question

sauceman101

Ready to race!
I just replaced the water pump on my 13' CBFA and I didn't have that sensor, I used 06H 121 026 DD that has the metal water pump. I think it's the older CBFAs that have that sensor



Update, ECS fully refunded the water pump upon receiving the RMA'd part. Installed 06h 121 026 DD pump which if I'm not mistaken is the latest update for the CCTA motor. All good to go after a few days of driving, no leaks yet!

The next "pump" that gets switched on this motor will be one that pumps air.:thumbup:
 

Ronnie_B

Ready to race!
Update, ECS fully refunded the water pump upon receiving the RMA'd part. Installed 06h 121 026 DD pump which if I'm not mistaken is the latest update for the CCTA motor. All good to go after a few days of driving, no leaks yet!

The next "pump" that gets switched on this motor will be one that pumps air.:thumbup:
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but just to clarify...you had a CCTA water pump installed on your CBFA and it didn't throw any codes? There's no electrical connector for the 2nd temp sensor or is it just unplugged?

I'd like to use an aluminum water pump but they don't make one for the CBFA engine apparently.

Thanks!
 

necro1234

New member
My 2012 Mk6 GTI unfortunately with my luck was a CBFA.

It's eaten another water pump so my shop suggested an aluminum housed pump (they ordered a Graf unit).
They then found out my vehicle has that extra connector on it....

So I had them see if it would work, the aluminum water pump bolted on just fine but threw a CEL due to that additional connector on the housing, they tested it out for a week and found everything operates as expected, so all we did was code that out and I now have a CBFA using a "CCTA" type water pump.

For anyone who may be interested in doing the same.

The shop that did this for me is Alex's Autohaus in Utah.
 

Ronnie_B

Ready to race!
My 2012 Mk6 GTI unfortunately with my luck was a CBFA.

It's eaten another water pump so my shop suggested an aluminum housed pump (they ordered a Graf unit).
They then found out my vehicle has that extra connector on it....

So I had them see if it would work, the aluminum water pump bolted on just fine but threw a CEL due to that additional connector on the housing, they tested it out for a week and found everything operates as expected, so all we did was code that out and I now have a CBFA using a "CCTA" type water pump.

For anyone who may be interested in doing the same.

The shop that did this for me is Alex's Autohaus in Utah.
Thanks for the info. Do you have any others details about how they coded out the CEL in VCDS?
 

necro1234

New member
I chatted to the crew at Alex's.. so some fake news from me (misunderstanding), they said they tried to code it out but couldn't get that right.

What they did to solve the CEL was this (super simple)
They left the sensor from the old CBFA water pump connected to the connector and hid it in the engine bay.

This way the heating circuit was completed and kept the vehicle happy with the new CCTA style aluminum water pump in place.

Here was the response I got from Ian (great guy) at Alex's when I confirmed what they did:

Sheldon,
Yes Correct. Sorry I shouldve explained that better. We tried to code it out and that's probably what you remember us talking about.
I even reached out to APR to see if they would allow me to force a later model (14' CBFA) Tune so it would code it out, but they wouldn't.
So we pulled it back apart, plugged the sensor in and secured it nicely and hid it.
pcjebbfcfbehkfmd.png


All that sensor does essentially is help the thermostat open which is overly redundant and why they got rid of it after that first 2010 Production run(Early 2011 model) of the CBFA.
So It just needs to have that heating circuit in there to not throw the code, and you get a 10X more reliable water pump.
-Ian
 

Grabbit

Go Kart Newbie
^ Great info. I have a 10' CBFA and just ordered an aluminum pump and will be doing the same. Any chance you have the whole picture from this post?
 

Ronnie_B

Ready to race!
^ Great info. I have a 10' CBFA and just ordered an aluminum pump and will be doing the same. Any chance you have the whole picture from this post?
Let us know how it works out for you. This could be a game changer for us CBFA folks.
 

necro1234

New member
^ Great info. I have a 10' CBFA and just ordered an aluminum pump and will be doing the same. Any chance you have the whole picture from this post?
Grabbit I didn't but... The Google is a wonderful thing (when it's not selling off our personal information lol)

I googled the title of that image and found the document online with that entire image here (page 9 on the doc):
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_222.pdf
I'm also attaching the downloaded PDF to this post just in case that vanishes one-day.

Thanks, hope this helps.
 

Attachments

necro1234

New member
Let us know how it works out for you. This could be a game changer for us CBFA folks.
Ronnie_B it's hasn't been all that long but so far she looks to be just fine, my Mk6 has a full front to back APR K04 setup with meth injection and so far no CEL's, the temps all look good and she's operating 100% so far, so fingers crossed.

I'll update if I run into any snags, but I do have a lot of trust with the folks at Alex's.

Thanks!
 

Grabbit

Go Kart Newbie
Something else I plan to test when I do my waterpump is to see if the stock lower plastic inlet (with sensor) will bolt up to the aluminum housing/pump. I'm not sure if this has already been tested but if it does fit, there should be no limitations for owners of early CBFAs wanting to use the aluminum pump.
 

Ronnie_B

Ready to race!
Something else I plan to test when I do my waterpump is to see if the stock lower plastic inlet (with sensor) will bolt up to the aluminum housing/pump. I'm not sure if this has already been tested but if it does fit, there should be no limitations for owners of early CBFAs wanting to use the aluminum pump.
I believe someone tried this on youtube and was required to modify the aluminum housing to clear the sensor. If I can find it I'll post the video. It would be much easier to just go without the sensor installed but still connected if it doesn't throw the CEL.
 
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necro1234

New member
I believe someone tried this on youtube and was required to modify the aluminum housing the clear the sensor. If I can find it I'll post the video. It would be much easier to just go without the sensor installed but still connected if it doesn't throw the CEL.
I recall the same thing from that video on YouTube as well Ronnie_B, if I remember right he did 2 rounds of machine work on it but I don't recall an update from him of success.

I think it may have been this one: (he left an update in the comments section)

Thanks
 

Ronnie_B

Ready to race!
I recall the same thing from that video on YouTube as well Ronnie_B, if I remember right he did 2 rounds of machine work on it but I don't recall an update from him of success.

I think it may have been this one: (he left an update in the comments section)

Thanks
That's the one, I commented on it at the time and never was notified he responded. Either way, I'm not a fan of machining a part like a water pump when we have other options like leaving the sensor out.
 
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