GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

What did you do to your MK6 today?

tkelly0727

Ready to race!
Im done at stage 2. On a Uni tune... I think its around 300 hp

edit; yeah 280hp 325tq. not looking to upgrade turbo
Thats what i was thinking as well, stopping at stage 2. But i ultimately decided to upgrade to a k04 and i regret not doing it sooner, World of a difference. And those numbers are at the crank. Your probably around 230/240whp and 280/290 wtq. Unitronic is on the lower end of the OTS tunes. Either way its still fun dont get me wrong.
 

Saabingti

Go Kart Champion
I got that top but started from the top. You should be able to snake your arm underneath the heat shield and just feel around.
Or use the same extension that you used to get to it from above.
Make sure your intake is pulled and it helps to have the battery out. From the driver's side of the engine bay just put your hand under the heat shield and feel for the hole. Make sure you have your engine cover off as well (I just assumed youve already done this, but maybe not a great cover).
Intake is still out. It just might be worth it to pull the battery here, I think? I can get my left hand around the heat shield and on to the stud. I can get my right hand through whatever hoses are on the right side of the engine and to the stud. "Problem" is, I don't think either hand is in a "tighten a nut" kind of ergonomic position there. My worry about using the socket is that I've got to keep it either pitched up or keep a finger on the nut. For pretty much all of the tough jobs on this I've been wondering why companies don't make more Magnetic sockets.
 

jay745

track sl00t
Didn't get it tonight either, but did put some work in:

==

Tried to break the nuts on the band clamps underneath to no avail so I ended up Dremeling them.

Wasted time trying to undo the top O2 sensor per CTS install instructions, only to realize that there's no reason to remove the O2 sensor from the turbo side ... why on earth do people not specify CCTA or CBFA given that difference? Now I'm worried I've borked the O2 sensor due to having to bend the wires to get it around the firewall while I was trying to remove it.

Spent a good amount of time trying to get to that infamous top inside nut. Finally got to it, couldn't get it to budge. Two day's worth of penetrant soak. Went to remove the socket, can't get the socket off the nut. Think it was a 12 pointer and probably made of Chinesium. It's still on there...

Okay fine, let's go under the car and hit the nuts that have been penetrated like 5 times. Won't budge. Call it a night as it's getting dark and the GF is hungry. Hit the nuts with another round of Knock'er Loose before wrapping up.

==

I'm using a "long handle" socket wrench, one of those 8" ones you can get at HD/Lowes. I tried a 10" breaker on the top inside and it still didn't work. Do I need to look at finding something longer? Because the socket is stuck on I feel like I need to follow the IE install instructions and pull the turbo heat shield off at this point; I doubt it's safe to put an intake on and try to drive with 1) a socket that could fall off the nut and 2) cut clamp bands. That involves disconnecting the evap line, coolant overflow line, and rear vacuum line from the crossover line. Anything I need to worry about there?

Thanks for all the help, guys. Really appreciate it. Has anyone else tried to do a DP install on a car that's been soaking in the Northeast's salt bath for 7 years and hasn't been wrenched on? 😂😅
Oh my...glad you finally got it sorted...worst for me was an 06 Gti that was completely rusted to hell. Not fun but still managed.
Alright folks, got the tires put on today and my baby is rocking new shoes. I'm going to have to raise the rear a bit I think, cause it's rubbing a bit right now around corners (booo). But yea, RSE10 with 235/40/r18 Michelin PS4S tires. Thinking about taking her up to the mountains tonight and seeing how she pushes. I also got the second revision of my Stratified tune for the k04. Things are turning up Castle right now!
Car looks great
x3 on this

Raise up the rear or lower the front. You've got no gap in the rear, but still some gap in the front....try and even it out (IMO)
I miss having a nice fitment and even gap between the wheels. Corner balance ruined that for me but on the other hand...superior handling. Im constantly having to tell people it was done on purpose for the corner balance.
Pro tip. Rip off a small piece of tape and put it in your socket sticky side down. Then put your nut in there
^ that or a little dab of rtv
 

CowTownRacer

Drag Racing Champion
Intake is still out. It just might be worth it to pull the battery here, I think? I can get my left hand around the heat shield and on to the stud. I can get my right hand through whatever hoses are on the right side of the engine and to the stud. "Problem" is, I don't think either hand is in a "tighten a nut" kind of ergonomic position there. My worry about using the socket is that I've got to keep it either pitched up or keep a finger on the nut. For pretty much all of the tough jobs on this I've been wondering why companies don't make more Magnetic sockets.
I think it's worth having the battery out for sure.

Also, I got the new fuel filter installed tonight. It seems to be helping. The car just feels a bit smoother.

One shit thing happened. I purchased APR lug nuts for my new wheels and one of them has been giving me some issues. Today it screwed up the threads on the car a bit. I was able to run a re-threading tool through it without much problem and fix the car side, but I tried to run the lug through a re-threading nut and it got messed up. Going to reach out to APR to see if they will help me with another one. I don't want to spend another $35 on 10 lugs, when I only need 1 and the one they sent me was definitely fucked up to begin with.
 

smanierre

Drag Racing Champion
Took out my sub and amp today. Don't really listen to enough music to justify the extra weight back there, especially for a performance oriented build. It also made pulling the floor out a bitch, and i'm gonna be making a new stiffer one and that wouldn't fit in with the sub. Also it will fit right into my GFs car so I won't have to worry about selling it. I'm starting to plan out my trunk setup, i'm thinking of tossing the OEM battery back there and I have a few questions. Does anyone know if the hump in the wheel well is necessary? I was thinking of having that cut out, and then a piece of metal welded in to make it flat, so I could put my batter, WM controller, and pump down there, and only have the tank above the floor.

Pic of said hump:
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
Took out my sub and amp today. Don't really listen to enough music to justify the extra weight back there, especially for a performance oriented build. It also made pulling the floor out a bitch, and i'm gonna be making a new stiffer one and that wouldn't fit in with the sub. Also it will fit right into my GFs car so I won't have to worry about selling it. I'm starting to plan out my trunk setup, i'm thinking of tossing the OEM battery back there and I have a few questions. Does anyone know if the hump in the wheel well is necessary? I was thinking of having that cut out, and then a piece of metal welded in to make it flat, so I could put my batter, WM controller, and pump down there, and only have the tank above the floor.

Pic of said hump:
i cant answer your question but ddi you look on the underside to see if maybe something was mounted there? might be worth doing before you cut if you go with it.... i imagine it just served to stabilize the spare tire.
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
I've been slowly working on my Unibrace XB install for about a week now. finished that up today, gonna do a post int he build thread about it shortly but here's what is looks like. pretty happy with the look with my rear seat delete.

 

smanierre

Drag Racing Champion
i cant answer your question but ddi you look on the underside to see if maybe something was mounted there? might be worth doing before you cut if you go with it.... i imagine it just served to stabilize the spare tire.
Now that you say that I remember someone saying the charcoal cannister for the evap might be there. I'm definitely gonna look under there before I start cutting though. I can't imagine it is too key to the structural integrity of the car, and it's gonna get replaced by just a flat piece so not like it would just be a hole
 

smanierre

Drag Racing Champion
I've been slowly working on my Unibrace XB install for about a week now. finished that up today, gonna do a post int he build thread about it shortly but here's what is looks like. pretty happy with the look with my rear seat delete.

I like that look a lot, will that fit in with the rear seats still in?
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion

smanierre

Drag Racing Champion
If you end up changing your mind and selling it I need one for my wife's sport wagen.
I'll keep that in mind and let you know. At this point only reason would be if we really don't wanna go through the hassle of installing it which is a possibility.
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion
Did my dog bone, plus insert today. Car shifts much smoother, really tightened things up.






 

smanierre

Drag Racing Champion
Did my dog bone, plus insert today. Car shifts much smoother, really tightened things up.






I've got that same setup on my car, big fan of how it feels along with the solid motor mounts.

Also one thing I forgot to mention in my previous post was I tried to spread the rear calipers more with the kit I got from autozone and they wouldn't go any wider. I may just end up selling the rear calipers and carriers and getting a linelock system put in or something since they are just extra weight at this point.
 
Top