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What did you do to your MK6 today?

MrFancypants

Autocross Champion
Use an automatic center punch to make a small dimple in the center of the stud, this is to prevent a small drill bit from drifting off the stud. Then using the small drill bit, drill in just far enough for a bolt extractor. Then… use the bolt extractor.

If that doesn’t work you can always just drill it out and retap it to whatever size bolt you want to use, or install a thread insert.

Giving it a penetrating oil bath prior to using the extractor may help.
 

GolNat

Autocross Champion
It looked like it was snapped off totally in the block so I won't be able to weld a nut onto it. I'll probably end up trying the extractor and then drilling it if needed. Will be nice having the engine out though, gonna make it way easier to get stuff out and back in.

Like this:

1639701702891.jpeg


Lots of penetrating oil and an extractor might work but if that fails try the above.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Use an automatic center punch to make a small dimple in the center of the stud, this is to prevent a small drill bit from drifting off the stud. Then using the small drill bit, drill in just far enough for a bolt extractor. Then… use the bolt extractor.

If that doesn’t work you can always just drill it out and retap it to whatever size bolt you want to use, or install a thread insert.

Giving it a penetrating oil bath prior to using the extractor may help.
I'll definitely use this if I need to resort to the the extractor. Definitely gonna be giving it a bath in penetrating oil
@smanierre wait a sec you were pulling the engine and still wrestled the trans out first? Bruhhhh. Pull them together and separate them when they're both out. When you re install it mate the trans to the motor and put them in together, thank me later
Yeah I shoulda just waited and pulled them together, but i'm pretty dumb and love doing stupid shit. i'll definitely be re-installing with as much re-assembeled as possible.
Like this:

View attachment 232943

Lots of penetrating oil and an extractor might work but if that fails try the above.
I'll have to get a better look with the manifold off, but it almost looked like it wasn't even flush with the head. I'll just have to deal with it down the road once I get to disassembling the motor
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion
Yeah wouldn't bother trying to weld a nut on. The bolt is likely rusted enough it's fused with the block, I'd just go straight to drilling it out
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
I bought a brake master cylinder the other day from car-part. From a 2011 TTS, and the person said there is the same part number for the TTS and the TTRS, and a separate one for the regular TT. I got it today and I think it's the regular TT one and not the 25.4mm one that comes in the TTS/RS based on the 23 thats stamped on there. I hope i'm wrong though.

Pics:

 

kryptonkid07

Sortaflush
More like "what did my MK6 do to me?" this time. My heater hasn't worked for a while, but I life in southeast Texas, so I don't need it but for a few weeks in the year. A couple days ago, I was driving home from work and it was a balmy 78° (in December!) so I had the A/C going, but then I noticed the air felt less crisp. I stopped to put gas before getting home and when I started it up I noticed the air was definitely warmer and even a bit humid. Great. So, I gotta figure out or have someone figure out what's going on. Hopefully the fix won't be too pricey.
 

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
More like "what did my MK6 do to me?" this time. My heater hasn't worked for a while, but I life in southeast Texas, so I don't need it but for a few weeks in the year. A couple days ago, I was driving home from work and it was a balmy 78° (in December!) so I had the A/C going, but then I noticed the air felt less crisp. I stopped to put gas before getting home and when I started it up I noticed the air was definitely warmer and even a bit humid. Great. So, I gotta figure out or have someone figure out what's going on. Hopefully the fix won't be too pricey.
when was last time your AC was recharged
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion
AC is a closed loop system and shouldn't need recharging. If you are regularly recharging your AC system you have a problem.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Turbo is off, and the clutch/flywheel is next so I can get it up onto the engine stand and start disassembling. Engine as it stands(sits) right now:

You know I had to do the comparison between the old and the new


I took off the pressure plate and the clutch out, how does the disk look? Think it's got a good amount of life left in it, or should I get a new one before reassembling? Also anyone got any tips for removing the flywheel bolts and keeping it from spinning?





And lastly I started cleaning the inside of the trans as it's pretty dirty. It's gonna take a lot of paper towels.
 

jay745

track sl00t
Turbo is off, and the clutch/flywheel is next so I can get it up onto the engine stand and start disassembling. Engine as it stands(sits) right now:

You know I had to do the comparison between the old and the new


I took off the pressure plate and the clutch out, how does the disk look? Think it's got a good amount of life left in it, or should I get a new one before reassembling? Also anyone got any tips for removing the flywheel bolts and keeping it from spinning?





And lastly I started cleaning the inside of the trans as it's pretty dirty. It's gonna take a lot of paper towels.
Use an impact gun with an impact rated triple square to get the flywheel bolts off. Otherwise find a very strong friend and a thick pair of gloves to hold the outer flywheel while you remove the bolts. You won't be able to do it alone without an impact.

Also go full polish on the trans while it's out 😁
94701672_3246994045313439_4296329543662174208_n.jpg
 

torga

Autocross Champion
I bought a brake master cylinder the other day from car-part. From a 2011 TTS, and the person said there is the same part number for the TTS and the TTRS, and a separate one for the regular TT. I got it today and I think it's the regular TT one and not the 25.4mm one that comes in the TTS/RS based on the 23 thats stamped on there. I hope i'm wrong though.

Pics:


Sorry man, I know I suggested to you to pick up a TT-S MC, as they are 25.4mm bore. Looks like the yard connected to car-part just sent you a base TT MC.
You'll find the same '23' stamped on your GTI's MC - that's the bore dia. stamp.

One of the last times I went through a yard connected to car-part, they sent me 2.0T CC front calipers when I specifically requested B6 4Mo Passat calipers.
 
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