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What did you do to your MK6 today?

smanierre

Autocross Newbie
Popped my top off if you know what i'm saying. Had to wait for the 10mm polydrive socket to come in for the headbolts. They came off easy though and the head pulled right off. Should I be concerned that the valves are white at all?










Here's the cylinder walls, I think they look pretty good for having 165k miles on them. Left these ones a bit bigger so it would be easier to see the walls.










Started on the process of removing the bottom end and realized I may have fucked up a bit. I left the rear main seal on before putting it onto the engine stand. Gonna see if I can get it off while still on the engine stand, but if not i'll figure out some way to get it down from the stand and get the rms off. Did get the oil pan, oil baffle, and oil pump out though.







Gonna also be working on pulling all the accessories off next as well to get it down to the bare block.

 

smanierre

Autocross Newbie
The cross-hatching still looks great!


mmmm forbidden waffle
Yeah i'm debating if I even need to get the walls touched up anymore, I thought they would be in worse shape. I may just run stock size pistons. Once I get the pistons and rods out i'll post better pictures of the complete walls.
 

1ashchuckton

Autocross Champion
I'm surprised to see the crosshatching still visible. You will need to measure the bores & if they are good & within speck, then give them a nice honing so the new rings will seat. So far it is looking very good. (y)
 

smanierre

Autocross Newbie
I'm surprised to see the crosshatching still visible. You will need to measure the bores & if they are good & within speck, then give them a nice honing so the new rings will seat. So far it is looking very good. (y)
Yeah I'm gonna ask some people that have built high hp cars what their opinions are. The original plan was to get it bored out to 83mm at FFE and get new pistons at that size
 

smanierre

Autocross Newbie
So close to having my engine totally torn down. Only things left are the rods/pistons, crankshaft, RMS, and balance shafts. Anyone know what the name is for the socket to get off the connecting rod bolts? Looks like the inverse of the poly drive socket I got for the head bolts, just a bit smaller. This is the only thing at the moment holding me up from getting the rest of the stuff out.


Block as it sits now:


All the accessories off the front:


After I get the engine taken care of I'm gonna figure out how to get rid of the stock calipers on the rear brakes. They are only there for the emergency brake, and I wasn't able to fit the pads in so at this point they are just dead weight and look dumb. Only issue is the bolt that holds on the bracket for the brembo calipers threads into the bracket for the OEM calipers. Gonna see if I can find a bolt with a matching nut to use instead. If anyone needs any MK5/6 R rear calipers let me know.
 

smanierre

Autocross Newbie

Thumper

Autocross Champion
Today?

Went out to drive the car to the dealer up in KC for a rust warranty inspection. Have a small (size of a penny) rust spot inside the drivers door jamb I want to get taken care of. Started the car and then started cleaning snow from last weekends weather off while the wife got in the car. She opens the window and says the fuel smell is back. Couple weeks ago we went out just to grab dinner and a strong fuel smell was in the cabin but it went away and I thought maybe it was the car in front of us. Obviously was not because I got in and instantly smelled it too.

When I say "strong fuel smell" I mean you would swear a bucket of gas was next to you, or you were sniffing the end of a gas pump nozzle.

Gas cap is a year old and no smell coming from it, looked under the car to see if my fuel tank was gushing and nothing, tracked it down to coming from the passenger front engine compartment near the headlight which I believe is where the EVAP cannister on these is located, in the fender well? I have no codes but only drove it about 10 miles last time and obviously turned it right off this morning and drove it no where. The car has been harder to start the last couple of times, but I tend only start it every other week or so. Was thinking it was just the fuel filter which is due and hoping it wasn't the LPFP but now the long starts and strong fuel smell from the bay.........awesome.
 

c31561

Go Kart Champion
When I say "strong fuel smell" I mean you would swear a bucket of gas was next to you, or you were sniffing the end of a gas pump nozzle.
My daughter called me saying "It smells like gas." I had her look around the car and pop the hood. She sent me a picture of what appeared to be a chunk missing from the LP fuel line. Got some tools and went over to her place to repair. Looks like a small rodent had decided to make a nest in her hood insulation and started to chew on her fuel line. I hope he choked on the gas. I gave my daughter props for noticing the smell and actually finding the problem.
 

Joe_Mama

Autocross Champion
The charcoal canister is not located in the fender, it is in the trunk in the spare tire well. It sounds more like you have a fuel leak in a line or one of your injectors
 

smanierre

Autocross Newbie
I'm not sure if the bolts were e-torx or not as the socket was a bit loose on there, but it worked in getting them all off no issue. Here are the bearings from I think cylinder 2, but they all looked pretty identical, no big marks on any of them that I saw.


Here are the skirts on the pistons. Again they all looked pretty similar. The chipped skirt is from me giving it the ejecto seato out of the block onto the ground, wasn't like that in there. Not concerned about it though as i'm replacing the pistons anyways.


I got the main cap bolts out also, but couldn't get the actual caps off, anyone got any suggestions? I also gotta remove the block from the stand and take off the rear main seal before i'll be able to get the crank off though, so that's gonna a fun time. Gonna be more careful now since there are some delicate surfaces exposed.


I'm 99% sure i'm just gonna get it bored out to 83mm just to be safe. It's not too expensive and will give me some peace of mind. Coilovers are getting taken care of first though since those will most likely have the longest turn around time. Also anyone ever have a clutch rebuilt by southbend? I looked on their website but didn't see anything about them offering it, and was just curious on what the cost usually was for it.
 
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