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What did you do to your MK6 today?

uglybastard

Autocross Champion
Replaced the fuel filter over the weekend along with the PCV front breather hose since the insulated sleeve was super tattered.
Just bought 2 of these for my cars. The foam is stupid flimsy but I see why its needed.
 

Cole2999

Drag Racing Champion
After my promising (but inadequate) battery welding, I bought a stick welder to hopefully get a better bead on the bolt. And I did! I used my angle grinder and polished up both the flywheel bolt and the socket (I found a 6mm that sits snug inside the stripped bolt) completely, then I welded it on. Gave it 30 minutes to cool, and when I tried to remove it it had enough strength to hold and was strong enough to rotate the engine in its ratchet strap cradle. Secured the engine and tried again... Snapped the weld.

I don't know what to do anymore. Tried drilling it out but the bolt is incredibly hard. 5 minutes of drilling got me maybe 1.5mm, and I was cooling the bit. Bit extractor didn't work either. 10mm Allen fits snug, but starts skipping when I apply force.

My only option left is finding some local welder to try to unfuck my shit. If that doesn't, I'm cutting that bitch off and getting a new flywheel.
 
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GolNat

Autocross Champion
After my promising (but inadequate) battery welding, I bought a stick welder to hopefully get a better bead on the bolt. And I did! I used my angle grinder and polished up both the flywheel bolt and the socket (I found a 6mm that sits snug inside the stripped bolt) completely, then I welded it on. Gave it 30 minutes to cool, and when I tried to remove it it had enough strength to hold and was strong enough to rotate the engine in its ratchet strap cradle. Secured the engine and tried again... Snapped the weld.

I don't know what to do anymore. Tried drilling it out but the bolt is incredibly hard. 5 minutes of drilling got me maybe 1.5mm, and I was cooling the bit. Bit extractor didn't work either. 10mm Allen fits snug, but starts skipping when I apply force.

My only option left is finding some local welder to try to unfuck my shit. If that doesn't, I'm cutting that bitch off and getting a new flywheel.

Don’t use a drill bit use an end mill to drill a hole for an extractor. As big of an extractor as you can fit.

 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Got some stuff done on the car but didn't have time to post about it so here it all is. Tested out the fuel pump with water and it seemed to work fine. Didn't see any sparking on the solder joints, and no leaking from the fuel line from the pump to the top of the basket. I may need to change the tube out for a longer one if I cant compress it down into the tank but i'll figure that out when I go to install it. My FCP order came in today so I got the oil pan back on with the oil pump chain installed this time. The VW manual calls for 8NM + 45 degrees. One of the bolts stripped out some of the threads on the 45 degrees and I felt another starting to go during the turn. I left the one that started to go as it was and was able to get a bolt into the one that stripped and tightened it as much as I felt comfortable. I'm hoping with the sealant and all the other bolts it will hold, but i'll definitely be monitoring it closely once it's running.

I also got a new sleeve for the exhaust balance shaft and it slid right in which was a relief since I couldn't get it in beforehand.

Started to time it up but I need some more bolts to hold the guide rails in so here it is as it sits now. I'm hoping they come in friday since i'm leaving saturday for 2 weeks, but I don't think they will since FCP didn't have them so I had to order from DAP.

My OSIR gauge pod came in for my oil pressure and temp gauges, it allegedly gets held in place by friction, but does have the option to screw it into the plastic above, which i'll do since I don't want it popping out if I hit a hard bump on the track. Going to work on getting the wires run friday if the timing parts don't come in time. The gauges are tinted and have a protective screen on here, but once they are lit up and the screen is off they'll be easier to see.


 

tdream1

Autocross Newbie
Got some stuff done on the car but didn't have time to post about it so here it all is. Tested out the fuel pump with water and it seemed to work fine. Didn't see any sparking on the solder joints, and no leaking from the fuel line from the pump to the top of the basket. I may need to change the tube out for a longer one if I cant compress it down into the tank but i'll figure that out when I go to install it. My FCP order came in today so I got the oil pan back on with the oil pump chain installed this time. The VW manual calls for 8NM + 45 degrees. One of the bolts stripped out some of the threads on the 45 degrees and I felt another starting to go during the turn. I left the one that started to go as it was and was able to get a bolt into the one that stripped and tightened it as much as I felt comfortable. I'm hoping with the sealant and all the other bolts it will hold, but i'll definitely be monitoring it closely once it's running.

I also got a new sleeve for the exhaust balance shaft and it slid right in which was a relief since I couldn't get it in beforehand.

Started to time it up but I need some more bolts to hold the guide rails in so here it is as it sits now. I'm hoping they come in friday since i'm leaving saturday for 2 weeks, but I don't think they will since FCP didn't have them so I had to order from DAP.

My OSIR gauge pod came in for my oil pressure and temp gauges, it allegedly gets held in place by friction, but does have the option to screw it into the plastic above, which i'll do since I don't want it popping out if I hit a hard bump on the track. Going to work on getting the wires run friday if the timing parts don't come in time. The gauges are tinted and have a protective screen on here, but once they are lit up and the screen is off they'll be easier to see.


I have the same OSIR gauge pod and we used a little 3M on the top of it to keep it in place. I have an oil temp and boost gauge mounted in it. It‘s never come loose in over 6+ years.
 

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smanierre

Autocross Champion
I have the same OSIR gauge pod and we used a little 3M on the top of it to keep it in place. I have an oil temp and boost gauge mounted in it. It‘s never come loose in over 6+ years.
I didn't even think of 3m but I got the plastic piece out already so might as well just use some screws
 

tdream1

Autocross Newbie
I didn't even think of 3m but I got the plastic piece out already so might as well just use some screws
Yeah, the only problem with screws is if you need to get to behind the pod quickly for some reason.
 

smanierre

Autocross Champion
Yeah, the only problem with screws is if you need to get to behind the pod quickly for some reason.
Yeah that is true, although getting that piece out should only take 15 or 20 min tops
 
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