supreme_gti
Drag Racing Champion
ok, not happening, I'm getting NEW rubber lines next
Bruh... SS clutch and brake lines are fine.
risks and rewards, I will give it a try, I can always go back to rubber lines, I was going to drive my car every day to work and back home, but I want to see if the pedal sinks again. I need to give it at least 24 - 36 hours.Bruh... SS clutch and brake lines are fine.
One poor experience shouldn't dissuade you from the hundreds if not thousands on SS clutch lines and the millions on SS brake lines.
NEW rubber lines it is, I don't want to spend money and spend money again on the same part years down the road.He's not wrong though. SS lines will need to be replaced after 2-3 years. They're for better heat management, not longevity
They have to be replaced?He's not wrong though. SS lines will need to be replaced after 2-3 years. They're for better heat management, not longevity
I guess it depends on the brand of the SS lines and the quality. I'm gonna stick to rubber, and I'm going to remove the ECS skid plate to see if there's anything leaking from the bottom end of the engine.They have to be replaced?
oh ya I need this, ordering a new replacement part live! thank you for sharing!The car started exhibiting a noticeable vibration and noise in the shifter and lower console while stopped in Drive that would go away when shifted into Neutral. There had not previously been such NVH with the BFI Stage 1 engine and transmission mounts, Spulen dog bone mount, and Racingline subframe mount. I lifted the car with a set of QuickJacks, started it, and slid underneath and it was immediately evident that the noise was coming from the exhaust bracket/downpipe hanger (1K0253144BD) which was original to the car, although it did not appear to be damaged in any way. After installing a new one, the NVH has disappeared. Just something to consider should you notice NVH that is not due to the usual suspects.
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the current DP on my car isn't mounted to this part, it's just hanging lol this part is actually torn (the red rubber pieces)The ARM DP I have had some crappy mounting points that didn't fit, so I ditched this... LOL!
You should put it back on, could end up damaging your turbo without it. Heat the prongs up and bend them into a position that'll fitThe ARM DP I have had some crappy mounting points that didn't fit, so I ditched this... LOL!
so my downpipe is on the dp flange but the red rubber piece broke so it's not properly secured, it's been like this ever since I went Ko4.... crap, I will get this part and install it before this year ends.You should put it back on, could end up damaging your turbo without it. Heat the prongs up and bend them into a position that'll fit
Noted - the ARM DP I have is rather nasty from years of driving in the northeast from myself and the kid that I bought it from. The midpipe is seized on. It was only 200 bucks. I'm considering getting a fresh catless DP (CTS or whatever) so that I can replace this and I can do a resonated midpipe whenever I need it. Then sell the ARM for 200ish and recoup the money.You should put it back on, could end up damaging your turbo without it. Heat the prongs up and bend them into a position that'll fit
Damn.... more reasons to always put a car on the hoist before buying it...Noted - the ARM DP I have is rather nasty from years of driving in the northeast from myself and the kid that I bought it from. The midpipe is seized on. It was only 200 bucks. I'm considering getting a fresh catless DP (CTS or whatever) so that I can replace this and I can do a resonated midpipe whenever I need it. Then sell the ARM for 200ish and recoup the money.
I don't have the hanger or the bracket that has the prongs for the ARM. It was such a piece of crap and wasn't even close to fitting.