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Whats gonna fail next?

Korydogg

Ready to race!
I'm all about trying to replace parts before they fail. I just want a reliable car. I just rolled over 100k....waddya think I need to change out? I have a '14 and have already changed out the intake. I have a DV+ and I have a stage 1 stratified tune. Just changed plugs, and I change the oil every 5k. I drive rather aggressively and so I think maybe a clutch may be in the future but don't think it needs it yet. I also plan to change out brake pads soon.

Waddya all think? Maybe PCV valve?

I'm about to drop some money on new rims and other goodies. I wanna make sure I get the necessities out of the way first.
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
If the PCV has never been changed I'd suggest it. Recently PCV failed on mine and took out rear main seal quickly...and that one was only a couple years old
 

torga

Autocross Champion
If the PCV has never been changed I'd suggest it. Recently PCV failed on mine and took out rear main seal quickly...and that one was only a couple years old
How does one know that the PCV failed? I'm getting a catch can next month and planned on replacing the PCV just to be safe. Just curious what the apparent signs are when it fails.
 

sterkrazzy

Autocross Champion
How does one know that the PCV failed? I'm getting a catch can next month and planned on replacing the PCV just to be safe. Just curious what the apparent signs are when it fails.

I think I've read something about pulling the dipstick with the motor running and if the idle doesn't change the pcv is bad. Not sure I have that right though.
 

torga

Autocross Champion
I think I've read something about pulling the dipstick with the motor running and if the idle doesn't change the pcv is bad. Not sure I have that right though.
Huh, I'll have to look that up. Just curious about any driveability symptoms, things like that. Like, if an accessory belt is failing, you'll know.
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
How does one know that the PCV failed? I'm getting a catch can next month and planned on replacing the PCV just to be safe. Just curious what the apparent signs are when it fails.

Depends how it fails, theres multiple failure points. When the diaphragm under the circular cap failed the first time I was getting random misfires in every cylinder and engine was shaking badly. Could feel air sucking in through the breather hole.

This 2nd time, I was just getting p301 and a little bit smoking on start and noticed oil being pushed out of rear breather tube area and upper timing cover. Next day I noticed misfire was gone, wasn't smoking as bad and then I got a slight idle fluctuation like a vac leak. Pulled a p0507. Pinhole wasn't sucking any air though. I changed PCV again and idle fluctuation was gone but then I got a p2279. By then it was too late and saw oil leaking from rear main seal.
 

Boscogn

Go Kart Champion
I'm at 106k miles. PCV is still good. When did you get intake done? Did they carbon clean? Red top coils are always a safe bet if u don't have those. If you got any clunks while turning subframe collar kit is a good deal.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

leiito1

Go Kart Champion
+1 on PCV. Changed my original 2010 pcv at 103k when i noticed the RMS was out... but that could have been a shit install when I replaced the clutch. New PCV and APR catch can to avoid further issues. IAbed RMS going in this week.

Never checked the timing chain.. don’t think I’ve had any issues with that though. Easy enough to check or is it not a simple task?
 

torga

Autocross Champion
+1 on PCV. Changed my original 2010 pcv at 103k when i noticed the RMS was out... but that could have been a shit install when I replaced the clutch. New PCV and APR catch can to avoid further issues. IAbed RMS going in this week.

Never checked the timing chain.. don’t think I’ve had any issues with that though. Easy enough to check or is it not a simple task?
Incredibly easy to check if you've got an OBDeleven. Go into the Engine Module's live data (with the car running and warm) and check out Cam Shaft Adjustment Adaptation (093). The data you're looking for is Phase Position Bank 1 intake and it'll be a degree value. I've heard around a lot of places in this forum and beyond that VW says +/- 5° is fine for chain alignment.
Anything outside of that range and you should prioritize a chain job.
 

leiito1

Go Kart Champion
Incredibly easy to check if you've got an OBDeleven. Go into the Engine Module's live data (with the car running and warm) and check out Cam Shaft Adjustment Adaptation (093). The data you're looking for is Phase Position Bank 1 intake and it'll be a degree value. I've heard around a lot of places in this forum and beyond that VW says +/- 5° is fine for chain alignment.
Anything outside of that range and you should prioritize a chain job.

Great! I’ll check that out after work today. Thanks!
 

Korydogg

Ready to race!
ok sooooooo thanks for all the input! I'm gonna replace it just to be safe. I like staying ahead of problems. I also like everyone's input about other issues. I'm trying to get 200K out of this beast and want racecar like performance just for fun.

have a nice day :)
 

Rolling_GTI

Ready to race!
don't wait for your PCV to fail, replace it as maintenance. At 100k, it is due. Read my mileage in my signature, I would know! I would do coilpacks every time you change plugs unless you are K04, then maybe every 30k. Shocked you haven't done a clutch yet, expect that to fail soon, atleast the throwout bearing, and if it goes, do it all while in there. If you have never done a carbon cleaning, you are far overdue for one. Change your fuel filter, that is likely overdue as well. If you are still on the original intake manifold, think about replacing that also when you do a carbon cleaning, the new ones rarely fail with all the revisions, and they are near impossible to clean carbon from one. Not a ton past that, replace the rest as it fails.
 

dcpppf

Ready to race!
Yup coil packs if you didn't do them w/ the plugs. For the clutch I'd wait until you see it slipping. Wouldn't suggest doing it preventatively. reason being is if/when you see slipping start... You can still drive it just fine while you research, source parts/shops, etc. Just gotta baby it a bit more than usual to avoid further slippage. If you know your car well you'll catch the slippage early.

Glad you asked about the PCV... I'm only at 50k on my '12 and wasn't planning on messing with it any time soon... maybe I'll just get that over with for peace of mind.
 
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