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Old 01-10-2018, 01:33 PM   #68
FIA World Rally Car Champion
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Drives: 2011 GTI / K04 / 6MT
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 635
DIY RSR Clutch is installed! Also replaced the rear main crankshaft seal with the iAbed Billet RMS. Parts lists, resources, and install tips below. Full Flickr album here, select embedded photos below. My Overall Impressions are at the bottom of the post. I will update them after clutch break in.


Parts List:
Pressure Plate (07K 141 015 BX) - $365.26 + Free shipping (

Clutch Disk (1878 005 146) - $110.99 + Free shipping (
Throwout Bearing (0A5 141 671 F) - $108.35 + Free shipping (
Pressure plate bolts (N 903 207 01) - $0.99 x6 + Free shipping (
Throwout bearing bolts (N 908 470 02) - $1.00 x3 + Free shipping (

Dual Mass Flywheel (06J 105 266 H) - $75 + Free shipping (forum member, used for 50k on a stock Jetta)
Flywheel bolts (N 906 650 01) - $2.02 x8 + Free shipping (
Transmission Fluid (G 052 527 A2) - $41.11 x3 + Free shipping (
VW Clutch Alignment Tool (T10097) - $15.99 + Free shipping (

Total: $824.02

Calkulin's "Build your own RSR clutch kit" Thread
T is for TURBO's Clutch Replacement Thread
GTI Mod Blog's Clutch Replacement Video

Install Tips:

Overall it wasn't a terrible job but I had a few issues. My goal was to remove the least amount of components possible. I didn't want to drop the subframe or remove the axles. I ended up unbolting both axles at the differential flanges, removing both flanges at the differential, and unbolting the ball joint at the control arm on the driver's side. This allowed enough clearance to move the driver's side axle over into the wheel well (you can see it in a few of the pictures). I also removed the bracket that holds the transmission mount to the transmission. Lastly, I unscrewed the 2 throttle body screws and disconnected a few electrical connections located between the radiator and the front of the engine. All of this gave me enough clearance to get the transmission out but it was quite a pain. I didn't really have any other issues besides things generally being difficult to maneuver. I did notice a ~1/2" hole that was open but looks like it should have some kind of plug on the bottom of the transmission. I plugged it from the outside with a simple, ribbed panel fastener from the hardware store. A few notes:

  • When I finally got the transmission off, the bell housing was full of sludgy, gritty crap. Not sure if I had a leaky throwout bearing or what. Took me quite awhile in the parts washer to clean it out but it came out nice.
  • I purchased a used OEM DMFW to replace mine and I'm glad I did. My flywheel was pretty bad looking. I bought Harbor Freight version of 2" Scotch Brite pads and arbor and hit the flywheel surface with the medium grit "scotch brite." It worked great and cleaned the flywheel surface right up. I don't anticipate any problems in the future but only time will tell.
  • The flywheel was a pain to bolt onto the crankshaft. It seemed to only line up one way and there are 8 bolts so 8 possible way to align it.
  • To keep the crank/flywheel from turning when I torqued the 8 flywheel bolts I put a 24mm socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. I had a helper hold the breaker bar while I worked the torque wrench. There is an OEM flywheel retainer tool if you are interested (tool number 3067) that runs about $25.
  • I got the rest of the clutch together without issue. Had to open up the 3 guide holes on the pressure plate with a ~1/4" drill bit as is well documented.
  • The differential flanges are spring loaded but went on easily with 2 people: 1 used a prybar to press the flange in, the other used a ratchet to install the bolt that holds it together.
  • I didn't bench bleed the throwout bearing and it took a ton of fluid (2ish pints) to bleed conventionally but it got there eventually.


Rear Main Seal

Parts List:

iAbed RMS & VW T20097 (462-103-171F-KT) - $124.00 + 16.56 shipping (

Victor Reinz Sealant (703141410) - $7.21 + Free shipping (

Total: $147.77


VW Service Manual - RMS Installation Procedure
A big thanks to Greg from Excelerate Performance for answering all the questions I pestered him with about the RMS installation. He was so helpful and quick to respond.

Install Tips:
I didn't realize that it would be necessary to press the spring loaded seal into the billet bracket. Luckily I have a hydraulic press and found a PVC coupler that was a close enough diameter to work as a seal driver. It certainly wasn't ideal and took some time but I got it *almost* fully seated. I didn't want to press anymore for fear of deforming the seal. Installing the seal over the crankshaft was simple following Greg from Excelerate Performance's instructions (above) in addition to the service manual. I purchased the sealant he recommended as well as the install tool T20097. If I was forced to do the job without the tool I think I could have found a wax paper cup or similar of the correct diameter but it was cheap enough and worth it to make the job simple. Don't forget to put the "intermediate plate" heat shield/gasket thing back on before you bolt up your flywheel!


Overall Impressions & Test Drive

Firstly, I've been having some symptoms that led me to complete this clutch job. I've experienced clutch slipping intermittently at low RPM, high gear scenarios since the spring. The OEM clutch had
91k miles, the last 25k of which have been APR Stage 1. I took it easy on the clutch to the present 106k. The clutch had also gotten grabby and I had a lot of chatter. Gear changes were somewhat rough no matter how well timed my shifts were, especially in lower gears. I had also been experiencing really notchy shifting, to the point that I didn't feel comfortable forcing the car into 1st gear, during this recent cold weather. Lastly, I began experiencing intermittent throwout bearing squeal on engagement, particularly when the car was cold.

During assembly I completely replaced my transmission oil with OEM fluid and re-aligned my Dieselgeek Short Shifter. There seems to be some confusion as to which OEM fluid should be used on but I was assured by one of their tech's that the fluid I purchased will work fine. I was surprised when I poured it out that it was close to the consistency of motor oil - much thinner than the 75w90
Motul Gear 300 oil I used before. I fired up the car and, immediately upon putting it in gear, the transmission felt great. That new fluid and short shifter alignment did the trick. The clutch pedal feels great, approximately 25% stiffer. The biggest difference is that clutch engagement is back to being buttery smooth. No chatter or grabby feeling. I'll have to get used to driving with the new clutch feel but I'm confident that will only take a few days. I'm excited to get through the break-in period because it feels like it will grab really well and be a blast to drive. I removed my clutch stop as a precaution but the bite is far enough off the floor that I think it will be fine to use.

Overall the drivetrain feels brand new and I couldn't be happier. I'll update this section after clutch break in.

I've completed break-in period and the clutch feels great. I put the clutch stop back in and it works fine with the new engagement point. I haven't worked the clutch hard or launched or anything like that but everything feels great doing pulls. The pedal stiffness either subsided or I got used to it, but I'd say the pedal feels only slightly stiffer than stock, maybe 10-20%. The OEM transmission fluid has proved to make a great difference, particularly in this cold weather. Overall I'm really happy with the DIY RSR clutch and would highly recommend it if it suits your needs.

Last edited by Tony48; 12-10-2018 at 02:32 PM.
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