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DIY Clutch Replacement: Lessons Learned

nvturbo

Go Kart Champion
They say it's easier. I don't want to damage the stuff putting it back in

Actually it isn't. I would suggest removing the throttle pipe though. More clearance and less chance of damaging it during removal/re-install of the tranny.
 

XGC75

Go Kart Champion
Thinking about attempting this. If I don't drain fluid and drop sub frame do I need to bleed anything out?

Nope. That's the trade-off. Either drain the tranny fluid and take out the axle flanges or drop the subframe and take it all out. Tried for a couple hours with a friend, a lift, an engine bar and a tranny lift but we couldn't get it to fit without doing one of those two things.

butchered by autocorrecr
 

privman

Ready to race!
Nope. That's the trade-off. Either drain the tranny fluid and take out the axle flanges or drop the subframe and take it all out. Tried for a couple hours with a friend, a lift, an engine bar and a tranny lift but we couldn't get it to fit without doing one of those two things.

butchered by autocorrecr


Okay thank you. Are those the correct set of bolts I need for sub frame?
 

privman

Ready to race!
Anyone have a link or set of part number for all 14 sub frame bolts?
 

Jimmy orange

Passed Driver's Ed
About to do mine. If I missed it sorry but other than the hardware for the new clutch and flywheel, is there any other hardware that I have to buy or order to install anything else???? If so plz let me know. I just ordered clutch so i got a little time to get and prepare for everything
 

redbarron04

New member
Thank you sir for doing this write up it has been the go to this weekend while putting my new clutch in. This job is a true pain in the ass but this DIY has made it nearly tolerable.
 

Gtiphil1

Passed Driver's Ed
Stage 3 clutch

i just installed my stage 3 clutch this past weekend and i was able to remove and install the transmission with out removing the axle output flange nor the subframe. removing these is a luxury and provides room to drop the trans and i would probably recommend to do on any future installs.
 

aeffertz

Passed Driver's Ed
Just wanted to say thanks for this write up! Just finished the clutch swap on my car and I haven’t really done one before and this broke it down great. I also didn’t want to yank the subframe and deal with the new bolts and alignment and everything else that comes with it so I just yanked the trans by itself like you on jack stands. It took me a couple hours to go from all bolts out to transmission out from under the car by myself and I didn’t lose any fluid.

But putting it back in I rotated it a bit to speed up the process and ended up losing a small amount of fluid from the passenger side axle flange. So I’ll probably drain the whole thing and replace the fluid on my next free weekend.

***Note: I got the trans out by myself but it would extremely helpful to get a helping hand for this and will also save time. I got a second pair of hands for putting the trans back up into th bay and mated up with the motor and it took an hour. Everything else was pretty easy by myself. A helper is nice for taking out the axle flange bolts and axle bolts though just to hold he brake down.

One thing that wasn’t mentioned that I overlooked and fucked up was keep an eye your exhaust hanger just below the turbo. I lowered the engine a few inches to get he trans out and forgot to take it off and ended up breaking it. But thanks again! Feels crazy to shift effortlessly again and not have any slipping.

If anyone is like me and is reading this in the future, it took me 48 hours total from start to finish, but that includes sleeping and eating and shit. So figure at least 2 full days if you don’t have a ton of experience or a massive shop with lifts and air tools. Also, one thing I either looked over or never r as on any tutorials is you need a 9mm 12 sided socket for the pressure plate bolts.

I saved the $30 on a flywheel holder and just placed a 3/8” socket extension into one of the holes in the block and placed a pry bar from the subframe, resting in the extensions and the other need placed into the teeth of the flywheel. Worked perfectly.
 
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thydougy

New member
Thank you so much for this run down. Helped with 90% of my mk6 golf R clutch swap.


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

Hedgehodge

Passed Driver's Ed
Thank you so much for this run down. Helped with 90% of my mk6 golf R clutch swap.



Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

My God that cinderblock placement terrifies me, I'd never get under that. At least place that jack in the middle where there is some support, I hope you have an engine support bar on during that photo, probably do though. Lol, I had to go double check, made no sense how front wasn't leaning unless on rad support
 

godnf8

Passed Driver's Ed
My God that cinderblock placement terrifies me, I'd never get under that. At least place that jack in the middle where there is some support, I hope you have an engine support bar on during that photo, probably do though. Lol, I had to go double check, made no sense how front wasn't leaning unless on rad support

I believe the cinder block jack was there to support transmission while he was removing stuff. I believe he has the car on 4 jack stands and has 1-2 of those other jacks for support
 

ebuuz

Go Kart Newbie
Thanks for this. With this and YouTube videos was able to pull my tranny out in about 3.5 hours. Hardest part was definitely lowering the transmission from the engine. Lots of wiggling and playing around.



When I first got this car and read this forum. These flagship DIYs including the k04 DIY I never would have imagined being able to do. I’ve learned so much wrenching on the mk6! I recommend anyone reading this and being unsure just to go for it. It’s a frustrating and educational experience but you will become a better mechanic by taking the plunge and investing in some tools.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

tjridgley

New member
Thank you so much for this run down. Helped with 90% of my mk6 golf R clutch swap.


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Please, please tell me the trick to separating that gear box section on the R. I removed the 4 bolts and the output flange. I can only get a couple mm of separation and it won't come apart.
 
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