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Let's talk reliability

Jeffs2013GTI

Drag Race Newbie
This is a very touchy subject, and very subjective one.

Everyone has his or her own experiences that sway our opinions on "reliabilty".

So here goes mine. Take this from a guy that has purchased about 20 cars of various brands and makes.

I have had issues with almost every car I have owned. Each car and car manufacturer has their own "Quirks" so to speak. I will give some examples:

I had a 2004 Toyota Matrix XRS that I bought new. Biggest piece of crap car I have owned. It rattled like a beer can with coins in it every time I drove it, I would shift gears and the little storage bin below the shifter would pop open with every shift so I would always keep the bin open. I can write a book on this car. Mechanically though was ok, everything else was garbage.

Had a 98 Neon I bought new, ran like a champ till the temp gauge began to go crazy. Took it to the dealer they said it had a blown head gasket, they fixed it and the car ran like s h i t after so I sold it.

Had a 84 Corolla (mind you this car was about 8 yrs old at the time) fuse block fried leaving me stranded at 2am in the middle of the ghetto. No Fun.

Had a 91 GMC Sonoma I bought new, would pop out of gear on its own, throw out bearing failed with like 1500 miles on it, wouldn't start on cold mornings.

91 Civic Hatch I bought new, had a faulty fuel filter from the factory which caused the car to stall and run like crap.

2011 Hyundai Sonata SE, boy I had issues with this car. Navigation would just shot off whenever it felt like it, power seat wouldn't work, had 4 Passenger ABS sensors replaced, had 3 Brake Sensors replaced, had drivers seat lumbar support (power) break and dealer wouldn't replace the seat said it was "normal" geeze, push button start wouldn't work left me stranded several times due to this and it was NEW.

2012 Hyundai Sonata GLS (wifes) Bluetooth failed module replaced 6 times, Shark Fin antenna seal failed causing water to ruin the headliner (dealer said it was our fault what a joke) Steering coupler failed, metal shavings found in oil complete Engine Replaced under warranty. Again, we bought this car NEW.

I mean I can literally go on for days here.

The GTI is my first "German" car. My folks told me not to buy it. "VW's are not reliable cars" is what I heard from them (though my Dad has my Grand Dads 1960 VW Bug Convertible that is on its Original Engine, Transmission and to this day some 50+ yrs later STILL runs like a sewing machine). I have had the water pump issues with my GTI, since it left the factory I am on my 4th one. The last one was installed about 2 yrs ago with the most up to date one, have not had an issue since.

I am concerned about the Timing Chain Tensioner though. My car was produced in June 2012 and though I have no symptoms of anything, but I dont like the idea it can just go at any time. I called up some dealers they want about $1800 to do the job. Something VW should be paying for in my book.

I think the GTI is a very well built car. We have to remember though these cars are fairly expensive here in the USA, these are Golfs and are on the lower end of the VW spectrum. I mean its just above a Polo for goodness sakes. So though the car feels "Premium:" compared to a Civic or Corolla it is in that range of cars.

One thing I have noticed though is how the GTI drives. I have owned 4 Lancer Evos an 8, 2 9's and a 10. The GTI feels as good going down the road as the Evo did. Not until your hitting a corner at high speed due you see where the Evo excels over the GTI. Off the line? Thats a given the GTI is FWD. But what I am saying is, the driving dynamics of this car are VERY good for a car in this price point and will give you a good chassis to work with.

Motor wise though? I am on the fence. Lots of plastic on parts that hold boost that could fail. Intake manifold, boost pipes, DV I mean wow crazy. That just is what new cars are doing to save weight I guess who knows.

So to make a long story longer, no car is perfect. If you want a perfect car? Dont buy anything because there isn't a such thing. All cars are poor investments (some exceptions but as a general rule) you will lose your A S S on whatever you buy.

It is best to just buy something you like and hold onto it. Know that parts fail, things break, its a car. To say VW is not "Reliable" though is very subjective. Do I think Hyundai isn't reliable? I had ALL kinds of issues with Hyundai, but I still think they build decent cas (never thought I would say that) but they do. I think VW is just as good as anything else on the road and is more fun to drive than most.

Take that for what its worth....(trying to keep this short, but not doing a good job)


Jeff
 
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MK6NGT

Ready to race!
This is a very touchy subject, and very subjective one.

Everyone has his or her own experiences that sway our opinions on "reliabilty".

So here goes mine. Take this from a guy that has purchased about 20 cars of various brands and makes.

I have had issues with almost every car I have owned. Each car and car manufacturer has their own "Quirks" so to speak. I will give some examples:

I had a 2004 Toyota Matrix XRS that I bought new. Biggest piece of crap car I have owned. It rattled like a beer can with coins in it every time I drove it, I would shift gears and the little storage bin below the shifter would pop open with every shift so I would always keep the bin open. I can write a book on this car. Mechanically though was ok, everything else was garbage.

Had a 98 Neon I bought new, ran like a champ till the temp gauge began to go crazy. Took it to the dealer they said it had a blown head gasket, they fixed it and the car ran like s h i t after so I sold it.

Had a 84 Corolla (mind you this car was about 8 yrs old at the time) fuse block fried leaving me stranded at 2am in the middle of the ghetto. No Fun.

Had a 91 GMC Sonoma I bought new, would pop out of gear on its own, throw out bearing failed with like 1500 miles on it, wouldn't start on cold mornings.

91 Civic Hatch I bought new, had a faulty fuel filter from the factory which caused the car to stall and run like crap.

2011 Hyundai Sonata SE, boy I had issues with this car. Navigation would just shot off whenever it felt like it, power seat wouldn't work, had 4 Passenger ABS sensors replaced, had 3 Brake Sensors replaced, had drivers seat lumbar support (power) break and dealer wouldn't replace the seat said it was "normal" geeze, push button start wouldn't work left me stranded several times due to this and it was NEW.

2012 Hyundai Sonata GLS (wifes) Bluetooth failed module replaced 6 times, Shark Fin antenna seal failed causing water to ruin the headliner (dealer said it was our fault what a joke) Steering coupler failed, metal shavings found in oil complete Engine Replaced under warranty. Again, we bought this car NEW.

I mean I can literally go on for days here.

The GTI is my first "German" car. My folks told me not to buy it. "VW's are not reliable cars" is what I heard from them (though my Dad has my Grand Dads 1960 VW Bug Convertible that is on its Original Engine, Transmission and to this day some 50+ yrs later STILL runs like a sewing machine). I have had the water pump issues with my GTI, since it left the factory I am on my 4th one. The last one was installed about 2 yrs ago with the most up to date one, have not had an issue since.

I am concerned about the Timing Chain Tensioner though. My car was produced in June 2012 and though I have no symptoms of anything, but I dont like the idea it can just go at any time. I called up some dealers they want about $1800 to do the job. Something VW should be paying for in my book.

I think the GTI is a very well built car. We have to remember though these cars are fairly expensive here in the USA, these are Golfs and are on the lower end of the VW spectrum. I mean its just above a Polo for goodness sakes. So though the car feels "Premium:" compared to a Civic or Corolla it is in that range of cars.

One thing I have noticed though is how the GTI drives. I have owned 4 Lancer Evos an 8, 2 9's and a 10. The GTI feels as good going down the road as the Evo did. Not until your hitting a corner at high speed due you see where the Evo excels over the GTI. Off the line? Thats a given the GTI is FWD. But what I am saying is, the driving dynamics of this car are VERY good for a car in this price point and will give you a good chassis to work with.

Motor wise though? I am on the fence. Lots of plastic on parts that hold boost that could fail. Intake manifold, boost pipes, DV I mean wow crazy. That just is what new cars are doing to save weight I guess who knows.

So to make a long story longer, no car is perfect. If you want a perfect car? Dont buy anything because there isn't a such thing. All cars are poor investments (some exceptions but as a general rule) you will lose your A S S on whatever you buy.

It is best to just buy something you like and hold onto it. Know that parts fail, things break, its a car. To say VW is not "Reliable" though is very subjective. Do I think Hyundai isn't reliable? I had ALL kinds of issues with Hyundai, but I still think they build decent cas (never thought I would say that) but they do. I think VW is just as good as anything else on the road and is more fun to drive than most.

Take that for what its worth....(trying to keep this short, but not doing a good job)


Jeff



I've had 5 brand new cars and 19 others in my short time on this earth. I can agree with your perspective on the post you made, all cars have issues. Some of them more annoying than others but they ALL have issues.

I had a suzuki aerio back in 06, brand new, went through four engines under warranty haha
 

Carlosfandang0

Autocross Newbie
The earlier incarnations were definitely built better but cost savings saw to that!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

AM407

Autocross Champion
I’ve owned a Honda, two Nissans, a Chevy, a GMC, and the GTI. All except the GMC were bought new, and driven for 7-12 years each. GTI has been far and away the most reliable of the bunch.

GTI is almost 8 years old and has 83k miles on it: only issues have been the parking brake cables and a rear wheel bearing. I’m still on the original water pump and intake manifold. Haven’t even done a carbon cleaning and the car runs great.

I’ll probably change the timing chain tensioner in the next year or so, just because. And plastic parts don’t bother me at all: they make freaking jet airliners out of plastic these days.
 

SnailPower

Autocross Newbie
Well hey, now if you buy a VW you get a 6 year/72k mile warranty! I think that can inspire a bit more confidence. VW will also be surprised at how much they need to cover on customers prior to them reaching 6 years, 72k miles which might help them make better cars in the long run, lol.

My experience with a brand new 2014 GTI has been hit and miss. Some issues I brought on and others from the car itself that make me question how a car relatively new at the time and still with low mileage has the issues it does.

My list of issues, (I'm currently at 41k miles):

Waterpump shot at 7k miles. Cigarette lighter port conflicting with the radio when I have something plugged in at the same time (I just get static out the radio) Began around 25k miles. Driver side window not auto raising anymore (I know how to configure it, it just won't take. It did on the passenger side...) Began at 38k miles. PCV failing around 33k. The trunk cover thing that goes up and down had a peg break by simply raising it up one day. My bluetooth connection from my phone to car sometimes drops out of the blue. E-brake consistently has been failing to disengage since the weather got real cold (never did this before). It happened on a daily basis anytime I let the car sit long enough to get cold again until we've just gotten warmer weather. Again, this just started to happen, dealt with previous winters with no issues with it.

Issues following modifications: Blown turbo at 37k miles (I never even pushed the car that hard). Shot OEM endlinks (my issue, I lowered car without replacing them). I know I have a few more items I am missing but I just can't think of them right now. If I remember, I'll update it.

One thing is like it seems some issues definitely wait until at 36k miles to rear their ugly head. I'd imagine it's more so just by luck but it's funny how that happens.

Would I buy another one? Hard to say. Again, they bumped the warranty which is awesome but I'm a guy that gets bored quickly of a stock car. If I own a car that doesn't like mods or take to them well, it's a turn off. Especially when you consider how much parts cost for replacement.

I'd recommend buy new so you definitely know you aren't bringing someone else's problem (because there can be many), and find yourself a mod friendly dealer that will still work on your car and honor warranty work if need be.

After owning Japanese, American, and German now, the American was my most reliable, and a Neon no less, rofl.
 
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Jeffs2013GTI

Drag Race Newbie
The new Warranty should help, it helped Hyundai get sales back.

To VW's Defense, the MK7's and UP seem to be better cars overall. I am sure they have some issues, but seems the MK5, and MK6's have more issues.

I thought about selling my car, then not, then sell, then not. I think because I have mine paid off, its low mileage, and costs me very little to keep is why I keep it. To get a new one, or anything else new, would just mean more payments for 60-72 months more likely, higher insurance, tags, etc.

So the offset of the oddball failure, would be cheaper than the overall cost to buy a new car. Its just something you have to way in, and if the fact you actually like the car or not.

I have been on the fence on getting an RS for the past 6 months. People say they are shit, but I like the car. So if you have a car you really like? You "tolerate" the issues it may or may not have.

Like my Dad says, "its either Car Payments, or Car Maintenance Bills, take your pick".


Jeff
 

PhthaloType

Go Kart Champion
To VW's Defense, the MK7's and UP seem to be better cars overall. I am sure they have some issues, but seems the MK5, and MK6's have more issues.

A friend of mine loves my car and is thinking about getting a GTI himself. I told him to shoot for a Mk 7 since they don't have as many issues. The 6 is still my favorite generation, but I won't recommend it to someone unless they know what they're getting themselves into, and know that they need to do a lot of homework first.
 

GroceryGTIer

Drag Racing Champion
The new Warranty should help, it helped Hyundai get sales back.

To VW's Defense, the MK7's and UP seem to be better cars overall. I am sure they have some issues, but seems the MK5, and MK6's have more issues.

I thought about selling my car, then not, then sell, then not. I think because I have mine paid off, its low mileage, and costs me very little to keep is why I keep it. To get a new one, or anything else new, would just mean more payments for 60-72 months more likely, higher insurance, tags, etc.

So the offset of the oddball failure, would be cheaper than the overall cost to buy a new car. Its just something you have to way in, and if the fact you actually like the car or not.

I have been on the fence on getting an RS for the past 6 months. People say they are shit, but I like the car. So if you have a car you really like? You "tolerate" the issues it may or may not have.

Like my Dad says, "its either Car Payments, or Car Maintenance Bills, take your pick".


Jeff

Too bad the 2018 is the one with the better warranty... the 2017 at my local dealer is listed at 20,777 and I know I could get it otd for 21,5.
 

AM407

Autocross Champion
E-brake consistently has been failing to disengage since the weather got real cold (never did this before). It happened on a daily basis anytime I let the car sit long enough to get cold again until we've just gotten warmer weather. Again, this just started to happen, dealt with previous winters with no issues with it.

Can’t help with your other issues, but that one’s easy. Mine did exactly the same thing.

You can spray some WD40 down the cable from the brake end, which might help for a while. But replacing the parking brake cables is the proper fix, and it’s cheap and easy. I think road grit gets trapped in there over time, maybe roughing up the sheathing, then water gets in and freezes solid in winter.

No issues at all since I replaced my cables a couple years ago. Think they were $70 Canadian for the pair, and maybe took me 1/2 hour to install.
 

CHerna

Ready to race!
I am concerned about the Timing Chain Tensioner though. My car was produced in June 2012 and though I have no symptoms of anything, but I dont like the idea it can just go at any time. I called up some dealers they want about $1800 to do the job. Something VW should be paying for in my book.

Jeff

Jeff,

My car is also a 2012. I shared the same concerns as you. With advice from this forum, I took my car to a local reputable European shop. They took a look at the tensioner and confirmed the newer revision. From what I can gather, the tensioner was revised during the 2012 model year. Clean point of the change was likely implemented by VIN.
 

DASVDUB

Drag Racing Champion
Jeff,

My car is also a 2012. I shared the same concerns as you. With advice from this forum, I took my car to a local reputable European shop. They took a look at the tensioner and confirmed the newer revision. From what I can gather, the tensioner was revised during the 2012 model year. Clean point of the change was likely implemented by VIN.

This. Just take it to a Euro shop.
 

Jeffs2013GTI

Drag Race Newbie
This. Just take it to a Euro shop.

Yeah I would like to just get it checked first before buying, I know my car was built in June or July of 2012.

No Euro shops within 130 miles of my house. Same goes for VW Dealers. Pricing is about the same for the inspection. So just may take it to the dealer and have them inspect it. Go from there.


Jeff
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Yeah I would like to just get it checked first before buying, I know my car was built in June or July of 2012.

No Euro shops within 130 miles of my house. Same goes for VW Dealers. Pricing is about the same for the inspection. So just may take it to the dealer and have them inspect it. Go from there.


Jeff

Tensioner revision is super easy to check yourself with a long flathead screwdriver, inspection mirror, and flashlight. Check out The Humble Mechanic's DIY Video. Hell, if you lived near me I would check it for you!

You can get a better look at the tensioner, ie don't need the inspection mirror, if you pull the passenger wheel, fender liner (a bunch of torx screws), and turbo outlet pipe (2 torx screws, hose clamp, and a wire clamp).

 

GroceryGTIer

Drag Racing Champion
Tensioner revision is super easy to check yourself with a long flathead screwdriver, inspection mirror, and flashlight. Check out The Humble Mechanic's DIY Video. Hell, if you lived near me I would check it for you!

You can get a better look at the tensioner, ie don't need the inspection mirror, if you pull the passenger wheel, fender liner (a bunch of torx screws), and turbo outlet pipe (2 torx screws, hose clamp, and a wire clamp).


I have a 2013, so I'm ASSUMING it's ok, but I know I should check it.
 
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