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HPA K04 users need some input

OhioMK6

Ready to race!
Forge got back to me today. The Wastegate Actuator for a K04 on a TSI (CBFA or CCTA) is the one I posted earlier. I asked about a DIY & the salesman explained that (as I've been reading) that it's pretty straightforward.

He said to install it with the flap closed, then preload it 3-4 threads. I also inquired about which spring to use & he siad the Yellow spring that's included if perfect for a tuned, K04 TSI (UM, APR, etc.) at 20-24lbs.

I've ordered one & will post a DIY once I get it.

I also have a Forge wastegate actuator that I'm putting on my OEM Borg Warner K04-64 that I'm modifying to fit. Thanks for posting about the recommended pre-load from Forge. I'm also going to ask Stratified how much preload they want me to put on it since they have tuned with the actuator before.
 

KFahey

Ready to race!
I suggest you guys changing out the DV on the HPA to the Oem Rev D one. The one on the HPA isn't as great and it's like a knock off even though it's still a piston design.
I'm running the actuator they supplied with gfb dv+, works well

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KFahey

Ready to race!
The actuator it comes with is actually really weak, but if yours works fine then that's good. I replaced mine with a kinugawa actuator and you can feel how much stiffer it is than the one HPA provided
I actually meant the diverter valve solenoid/actuator ....running their stock wastegate as well don't seem to have any issues at all....just a boost leak with their shitty machined parts

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Chris659

Ready to race!
I run a Turbosmart plumb back on mine with no complaints. I agree the one they supply you with is a cheap knockoff
 

clarxion

New member
I suggest you guys changing out the DV on the HPA to the Oem Rev D one. The one on the HPA isn't as great and it's like a knock off even though it's still a piston design.

This is correct. 3 HPA turbos DV already failed only 2 months. I managed group buy for my customers. And 3 of them already stuck and throw error code on DV.

Replace it using D, and working well now.
 

redubbed

Ready to race!
I actually meant the diverter valve solenoid/actuator ....running their stock wastegate as well don't seem to have any issues at all....just a boost leak with their shitty machined parts

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Can you elaborate on the leak? I’d like to get any potential issues fixed before I install the thing.
 

KFahey

Ready to race!
Can you elaborate on the leak? I’d like to get any potential issues fixed before I install the thing.
Sure. It's at the assembly of their machined that are attached to the turbo outlet. Their parts include an aluminum ring, an aluminum offset coupler (that your silicone hose goes on and attaches to the pancake pipe), an O ring and a stainless v band clamp. The leak is seeping out of this connection out through the V band clamp. I've tried new o rings and a new aluminium ring it did not fix it. They sent me a new ring, new offset coupler and a new v band clamp that I have not tried yet.

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damagi123

Go Kart Champion
Sure. It's at the assembly of their machined that are attached to the turbo outlet. Their parts include an aluminum ring, an aluminum offset coupler (that your silicone hose goes on and attaches to the pancake pipe), an O ring and a stainless v band clamp. The leak is seeping out of this connection out through the V band clamp. I've tried new o rings and a new aluminium ring it did not fix it. They sent me a new ring, new offset coupler and a new v band clamp that I have not tried yet.

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At these boost levels just replace all those stupid clamps with actual hi torque worm clamps and you'll be gravy.
 

KFahey

Ready to race!
At these boost levels just replace all those stupid clamps with actual hi torque worm clamps and you'll be gravy.
The leak is coming from machined parts and an o ring due to poor tolerancing. It's not at a silicone connection with hose clamps. Wish it was that easy

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KFahey

Ready to race!
At these boost levels just replace all those stupid clamps with actual hi torque worm clamps and you'll be gravy.
Seeping right out of this stainless clamp


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GroceryGTIer

Drag Racing Champion
Seeping right out of this stainless clamp


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I blew off that hose many times, and it turned out that the pcv was shot, oil was leaking down and getting in there asn d so the clamp wouldn't hold tight
 

KFahey

Ready to race!
What if that separate piece were to be welded on? No more clamp... Thoughts?
I've actually had the ring and offset coupler seal welded to the right of the clamp because I can take those off the car. In order to fully weld it to the turbo itd have to come out of the car which I'm not trying to do right now....I tried some gasket material along with the welded pieces however that didn't completely seal it.

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