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Old 02-16-2018, 10:30 AM   #85
Tony48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BringerOdeath View Post
I think we figured it out, there was little piece of debris in the connical part of the caliper that was keeping it from sealing. Maybe from the powdercoating.

How did that repair bleeder work for you?

Also, my buddy is testing the 25.4 MC and the GTI one in his turbo beetle to see if he likes the pedal feel. If he ends up giving me back the upgraded MC, I can always sell it to you.
Glad the bleeder ended up being a simple fix. I haven't had a chance to put the repair bleeder in yet...hopefully this weekend. Been busy with life and working on the garage. I'll post pics when I tackle it.

Keep me in the loop on the MC. It's not an upgrade that I'm dying to do but it certainly has value.
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:40 AM   #86
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Saving Private Brembo

I had a bit of time this weekend to tap the caliper for the bleeder screw insert. Everything went well so I'll clean the caliper up, make sure to flush all the aluminum shavings out, and put the insert in with loctite this weekend.

The plan is still to get the kit installed without refinishing the calipers. I'll make sure everything is leak-proof and functioning properly. Once I vinyl wrap my car I'll pull the calipers off and powder coat them to match the vinyl color.

The biggest challenges in installing the brake caliper insert were as follows:
  • Finding an appropriately sized insert. 1/8NPT was too small and 1/4NPT too large. Luckily I was able to find the M12 unit.
  • Unfortunately the M12 unit was M12x1 thread pitch which is uncommon. Had to order a set of taps online. I ordered a taper tap and a plug tap.
  • Clamping and holding the caliper perfectly vertical was difficult because there's not a good way to clamp to a vertical reference point. I ended up eyeballing the setup vertical on the drill press and I'm confident it's straight within a couple degrees.
  • There was not a lot of extra depth available so I had to drill and tap slowly and carefully.
  • I started the threads with the taper tap. I ground the bottom off of the plug tap so it became a bottoming tap. The unmodified plug tap would not have cut threads to the bottom of the blind hole.
Oh, I also did some maintenance - oil change, tire rotation, installed new spark plugs and R8 coil packs so those pics are down below the brake caliper stuff.















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Last edited by Tony48; 02-20-2018 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 03-21-2018, 03:06 PM   #87
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986 S brakes are installed.

-Boxster 986 S front calipers (PN 996-351-425-11 & 996-351-426-11, these are different from the 986 non-S calipers)
-New seals and dust covers
-321x30 Stoptech slotted rotor (Audi B5 S4 fitment)
-Rotor centering rings
-HEL Stainless Steel brake lines w/ flared fitting (to avoid using banjo bolts)
-Pentosin Super DOT4 fluid (took less than a liter to bleed the front calipers after draining the master cylinder reservoir)
-EBC Red pads
-OEM vibration dampers

Impressions:
I'm happy to say that the repaired bleeder is holding pressure perfectly. I have a slight weeping issue from one of the other bleed nipples but I think it'll be fine after I replace the bleeder. Pedal feel is fantastic but I'll have a better idea after I complete the bed in period for the EBC pads (~200 miles of city driving followed by a few 60-20 stops to heat cycle the pads). My initial thought is that the pedal is very linear and easy to modulate. Braking power doesn't taper off as pedal pressure increases like with the OEM setup. Seems to be a very nice OEM-plus kind of upgrade.








Filing down the pad slide pins by a mm or two to make room for the 30mm wide rotors (stock 986 S rotors are 28mm)











Comparison shot:




Unfortunately the setup required spacers for clearance on my 18x8 ET45 OZ Ultraleggeras. I had 10mm's laying around so I threw them on. Could go as low as 5mm, maybe even 4, and maintain adequate clearance. My fenders are rolled and slightly pulled but I still get a tiny bit of rubbing when turning and going over bumps. I'll probably be getting custom spacers made soon so I can go thinner to prevent fender rubbing and still have a wheel centric lip.

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Old 03-22-2018, 02:00 PM   #88
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looks great man


Do you know if you will have to shave down the pins on a non-s caliper ?
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Old 03-22-2018, 02:33 PM   #89
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looks great man


Do you know if you will have to shave down the pins on a non-s caliper ?
Much appreciated!

I believe shaving pins is not necessary on non-s calipers. This is due to the MK6 GTI front rotor being 25mm thick and the 986 non-s rotor being only 24mm thick.
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Old 03-22-2018, 03:12 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by Tony48 View Post
Much appreciated!

I believe shaving pins is not necessary on non-s calipers. This is due to the MK6 GTI front rotor being 25mm thick and the 986 non-s rotor being only 24mm thick.
OK awesome thanks for the info I just picked up some 986 calipers off ebay. so im starting my rebuild on them now.
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:43 PM   #91
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Awesome Tony! Glad you were able to end up golden on the caliper repair! I don't have the tools so I would have to send the caliper out for repair. Looks good! I had to use a 5mm spacer when I had the 17z calipers and it was still CLOSE!
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:39 AM   #92
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OK awesome thanks for the info I just picked up some 986 calipers off ebay. so im starting my rebuild on them now.
Best of luck! Let me know if you need any help tracking down parts. It was a bit difficult for me to find new seals.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BringerOdeath View Post
Awesome Tony! Glad you were able to end up golden on the caliper repair! I don't have the tools so I would have to send the caliper out for repair. Looks good! I had to use a 5mm spacer when I had the 17z calipers and it was still CLOSE!
I was really surprised when my OZ's didn't clear the brakes. I've ordered a set of custom 6mm spacers from Motorsport tech which should give me plenty of clearance and be wheel centric (56.1mm center bore to 75mm OZ centerbore). The 10mm spacers are too agressive for my spring setup and I'm rubbing on turns.
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:32 PM   #93
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Best of luck! Let me know if you need any help tracking down parts. It was a bit difficult for me to find new seals.



I was really surprised when my OZ's didn't clear the brakes. I've ordered a set of custom 6mm spacers from Motorsport tech which should give me plenty of clearance and be wheel centric (56.1mm center bore to 75mm OZ centerbore). The 10mm spacers are too agressive for my spring setup and I'm rubbing on turns.
The funny Thing is that if I had gone with the 18z caliper or TTRS calipers from the beginning, I wouldn't have needed spacers since the larger rotor pushed the caliper outwards towards the wheel barrel, clearing the spokes with plenty of room
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Old 03-23-2018, 12:51 PM   #94
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The funny Thing is that if I had gone with the 18z caliper or TTRS calipers from the beginning, I wouldn't have needed spacers since the larger rotor pushed the caliper outwards towards the wheel barrel, clearing the spokes with plenty of room
Same deal here. The back of the wheel spoke only touches the edge of the caliper closest to the hub. If the rotors were bigger on this kit I would clear without an issue. Had I known this I probably would have gone with a TTRS kit from the beginning. Oh well, hopefully the new spacers give me the clearance I need and prevent fender rubbing.
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Old 04-04-2018, 04:44 PM   #95
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Hi Tony, quick question. When you were trying to get the timing marks to line up (mostly) where you turning the crank over with the pulley removed and the spacer and bolt installed? Just worried about the sprocket slipping if I tried this.
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:28 PM   #96
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Hi Tony, quick question. When you were trying to get the timing marks to line up (mostly) where you turning the crank over with the pulley removed and the spacer and bolt installed? Just worried about the sprocket slipping if I tried this.
I did a small amount of turning with just the spacer and bolt installed. Whenever I needed to turn the crank more than 1/4 turn or so, I put the crank pulley and bolt back on (just hand tight). It only takes a few seconds to throw the pulley on so I figured better safe than sorry.

You working on a timing job right now?
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:21 PM   #97
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Thanks for the response. I have all my parts and tools in and ill be starting this friday or next friday.
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Old 04-04-2018, 09:46 PM   #98
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Thanks for the response. I have all my parts and tools in and ill be starting this friday or next friday.
Good luck! Post here or send me a PM if you have any questions. The job is still pretty fresh in my mind. Make sure you have a short triple square for the motor mount bracket or you'll get stuck pretty quickly.
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