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Old 10-12-2014, 09:15 PM   #57
Jfaccas
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Great post. I'll be using this soon
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:21 PM   #58
Harrod
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Thanks for doing this DIY, I was able to fix my sisters car a few weeks ago using these steps. I did run into issues getting the belt off, I ended up getting it partially slid back onto the sprocket and rotating the engine to get it to pull it back onto the sprocket when I was done.




We picked up a haynes manual, it was a waste of money. The steps involved were remove intake manifold, replace water pump.

Here was the problem, it was leaking at the thermostat. I also found what looked like a stop leak type material in the coolant that we drained out, it looked like copper sand that accumulated at the bottom of the drain bucket.

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Old 01-15-2015, 01:21 PM   #59
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awesome man, good work. i used my bentley to figure out how i wanted to attack it. we need more people doing the job themselves so the community gets an idea of what's actually failing. these pumps have several failure modes.
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If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
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It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:11 PM   #60
Harrod
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I probably spent about 12 hours working on it the first time, but could do the job in about 6 if I had to. One thing that I noticed is that you have to have a socket driver that has an adjustable head. Probably the biggest issue was getting to the rear bolts on the throttle body, you can go from underneath the car, but the angles are too weird to get the screws backed out.

Another thing I ran into is the pipes, be sure that you get them all the way back on, I had the lower one back on(I thought) and the pipe popped off after a few miles. I had to use a ton of force to get the lower one to seat correctly.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:38 PM   #61
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In there other how to thread (the sticky) there's a pic of all the tools needed
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Old 01-15-2015, 06:30 PM   #62
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Don't forget the torque wrench!
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He's a real straight shooter, no monkey business, and the wheel swap at the Kohl's parking lot was quick and easy.
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Well i did use a breaker bar to snug up that nut instead of a torque wrench.
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my subframe has been out twice without replacing any bolts and I don't have subframe clunks and my world hasn't ended and my car hasn't blown up.
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:02 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Harrod View Post
I probably spent about 12 hours working on it the first time, but could do the job in about 6 if I had to. One thing that I noticed is that you have to have a socket driver that has an adjustable head. Probably the biggest issue was getting to the rear bolts on the throttle body, you can go from underneath the car, but the angles are too weird to get the screws backed out.

Another thing I ran into is the pipes, be sure that you get them all the way back on, I had the lower one back on(I thought) and the pipe popped off after a few miles. I had to use a ton of force to get the lower one to seat correctly.
yep same thing happened to me. there should be a pretty hard click once you get it all the way on. with the manifold off it was cake, but when i tried it again with the manifold still on it was hell reaching the bolts with an torx key
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If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
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It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 07-20-2015, 11:57 AM   #64
interweb42
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20,000 miles and mine started leaking. (2012 MK6) car is a salvage title so no warranty. Just replaced it myself. Was a big job, probably took about 12 hours, spread out over 2 days. could probably do it in half the time now, I wasted a lot of time trying to do it without pulling the intake manifold

I was able to get the pump removed without taking off the intake manifold however, it was not lining up in place (looked like the pump was pressing up against the bottom of the fuel rail/ wiring for fuel injectors) ended up removing the manifold to get it reinstalled.

I find it hard to believe this is possible to do without removing the mani. I would recommend anyone trying this for the first time to to just bite the bullet and remove the manifold, gives you so much more room to work with.

I also ordered the wrong part first, beware there are two pumps depending on engine type
PUMP PART #06J121026BG = CBFA Engine
PUMP PART #06H121026DD = CCTA Engine

This video helped me a lot just seeing how everything disconnected/ how fuel injectors removed from fuel rail. They suck to pull out!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ugh9vPz2Zd8

The worst parts of this job are as follows:
  • the back two screws on the throttle body, extensions are your friend.
  • The throttle body pipe was pain to get off, gotta jam a screwdriver around the whole pipe to break the seal then squeeze the pipe itself and pull.
  • All the fuel injectors on my car came off with the mani, these suck to pull out, not sure if there is a trick, just kinda used a screwdriver to help pry them out. (I didn't replace any seals, just lubed them up and slapped them back on the car, worked fine.)

I would also recommend blowing some compressed air around the mani before dissembling to keep dust/dirt from falling into the valves.

Thank you all so much for the information, without you guys I don't think I would have attempted this job.
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:22 PM   #65
kern417
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i agree it's a lot easier to remove the manifold. i've done it both ways and working blind is difficult. i'm sure it would be easier with a lift but i don't have one.
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If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
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It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:14 AM   #66
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i agree it's a lot easier to remove the manifold. i've done it both ways and working blind is difficult. i'm sure it would be easier with a lift but i don't have one.
I don't think having a lift would be helpful when it comes to replacing the water pump. All the work is from on top with the exception of unplugging the throttle pipe sensor.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:44 AM   #67
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I don't think having a lift would be helpful when it comes to replacing the water pump. All the work is from on top with the exception of unplugging the throttle pipe sensor.
if you're doing it without the manifold that would be the best way to see what you're doing. i can even access my map sensor from the top, but it was a headahce trying to line up a torx bit with the bolts when i couldn't see anything between the runners.
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Originally Posted by RGTI13 View Post
If you already have an intake, might as well just go big turbo while you're in the engine bay. Just my 2 cents.
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It's only then when I realize, in a moment of clarity, I should have bought Honda.
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:54 AM   #68
Steve Lai
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Great write up. Hv finished my water pump w the manifold opened. Done the valve carbon clean up and injector cleansing in one go. It took me 2 days but the car is running in good shape. The water pump for Hong Kong GTI6 model is a bit different from US but your valuable info helps a lot.

Thx again.
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Old 03-04-2018, 06:24 PM   #69
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Of course the photos dont work -_- blehhhhh
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Old 04-08-2018, 12:27 AM   #70
Steve Lai
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The pump has been replaced for several months. A mild seepage (not leakage) was noticed recently with coolant spotted underneath and behind the thermostat housing.

Have reinstalled the pump and also removed/cleaned up the contact sealant between the housing and engine block surface but seepage still detected.

Is it necessary to apply sealant on the surface? What type of sealant should be used? Any thoughts?
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