GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

DIY - TT-RS control arm bushings, without a press

S

Steve Lai

New member
Steve Lai said:
Very helpful. Going to change with the Whiteline bushings to the lower control arm in my 12' GTI. Wonder if the three claw puller is a must coz it appears that the C clamp alone would be sufficed?
I'm going to replace the front busing as well. Any advice on how to replace this piece would be appreciated.

Steve Lai, HK
Click to expand...

Changed the OEM w a Whiteline bushings. Serious NVH was noted and also squeak noise from the LCA even when parking.

Ref is made to
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...view_subframe_anti-roll_bar_suspension_links/

Thoughts ?
 
MrFancypants

MrFancypants

Autocross Champion
How did the c-clamp alone work out? Seems like it would be fine if you can use it in a way that allows for clearance so the bushing can come out.

Did you grease up the bushing sufficiently? Poly bushings tend to be really picky about that, which is why I went with the rubber bushings.
 
V

valgargg1

New member
Thank you for the DIY!

I installed these TT-RS / RS3 bushings on my 2006 Audi A3 this weekend using your instructions. They were spot on except 2 things I needed to do differently. 1) in stead of the big ass hammer, I used the three jaw puller to both extract the old bushing, then used it again to push in the new bushing. The drivers side bushing was especially a hard fit, if I had used a hammer to bash it in I think I would have deformed the aluminum housing around the bushing.

2) How the heck did you brace the C-Clamp on the back of the control arm!? (Maybe A3 8P arms are different them MK6) For the life of me I couldn't figure it out/my control arm had nowhere the C-Clamp would be grip onto. After trying (and failing) to muscle the bushing onto the control arm for an hour, I ended up using a dremel to cut a notch/hook in my C-Clamp so it could fit into the small slot on the control arm, allowing me to finally have it braced on both sides to push the bushing on the arm.

The results of the new bushings are good. Tightens up the front, better turn in, reduced dive, reduced body roll/lean in turns. Changes are small but noticeable, especially if you're driving the car hard. I think these bushings in the front help compliment my stiffer rear sway bar nicely.
 
MrFancypants

MrFancypants

Autocross Champion
Blakcard said:
https://youtu.be/T6TGnnAFTnU

anyone try this?
Click to expand...

Yup, that’s essentially how I did it. Except he was able to slip the new ones on a lot easier. I’m guessing the copper anti-seize helped a lot, and those also look like S3 bushings rather than TT.


valgargg said:
Thank you for the DIY!

I installed these TT-RS / RS3 bushings on my 2006 Audi A3 this weekend using your instructions. They were spot on except 2 things I needed to do differently. 1) in stead of the big ass hammer, I used the three jaw puller to both extract the old bushing, then used it again to push in the new bushing. The drivers side bushing was especially a hard fit, if I had used a hammer to bash it in I think I would have deformed the aluminum housing around the bushing.

2) How the heck did you brace the C-Clamp on the back of the control arm!? (Maybe A3 8P arms are different them MK6) For the life of me I couldn't figure it out/my control arm had nowhere the C-Clamp would be grip onto. After trying (and failing) to muscle the bushing onto the control arm for an hour, I ended up using a dremel to cut a notch/hook in my C-Clamp so it could fit into the small slot on the control arm, allowing me to finally have it braced on both sides to push the bushing on the arm.

The results of the new bushings are good. Tightens up the front, better turn in, reduced dive, reduced body roll/lean in turns. Changes are small but noticeable, especially if you're driving the car hard. I think these bushings in the front help compliment my stiffer rear sway bar nicely.
Click to expand...

The stamped steel control arms on the GTI have a bit of an indention on the other side of the rod that the bush slips over, so I was able to get a good bite with the clamp on that point.

In hindsight the idea to use a bit of copper anti-seize may have made a big difference.

In my case I now realize that my old bushings were so bad that they were creating a nasty bumpsteer issue that’s no longer present.
 
2stroke

2stroke

New member
MrFancypants said:
I didn't go with Whiteline's ALK mostly because I just didn't want to spend what they cost, and then I'm not so sure about modifying my suspension geometry in a way that I'm unsure of.
I don't feel like this car needs more caster and it puts power down coming out of corners extremely well for a FWD car, so I didn't want to mess with aspects of the suspension geometry that I don't fully understand.
I didn't want to add a negative that I didn't anticipate.

I actually have a set of black Whiteline replacement bushings, but I got them on sale before I had learned that I could get the TT-RS bushings not already pressed in a housing for dirt cheap.
I opted for the rubber bushings because it seemed like I would get 90% of the performance with none of the drawbacks that can come with polyurethane.

Initial impressions....
less torque steer while braking and accelerating, less wheel hop, better traction that's easier to modulate at the limit, more direct steering, more responsive brakes, and better feel through the seat (this one surprised me).
Overall the steering and brakes have less of an "elastic" feel to them while they're loaded as you go through corners and I have a much improved sense for what the inside front is doing when I start to apply power driving out of a corner.

Something that could be considered a negative is that you feel more of the road.
To me this is a positive because I want that connection, but if you must have the smoothest possible ride you probably don't want these.
They won't make impacts harsher if you have good dampers and aren't riding on the bumpstops (I have Koni Sports on stock springs), you'll just feel more connected with the road.

This is a fantastic upgrade for the money.
With the new bolts I'm out about $ 55.
Click to expand...

MrFancypants said:
I really see no reason for anyone to to spend $ 260 on S3 poly bushings anymore.
But if you go through the effort of pulling the bushing mounts off the car to replace them with a stiffer OE spec option,
removing the stock bushings and pressing the new ones into the old housings is a lot easier than I thought it would be.
I would absolutely recommend these to anybody interested in a cheap handling upgrade.
Click to expand...

MrFancypants said:
Compared to my 115k mile stock bushings, yes.
Minimal extra noise (maybe extra road noise, no squeeks or anything you might get from poly) and harshness, but a more noticeable impact on vibration.
It's not like vibration from super stiff drivetrain mounts, more like you can better feel the condition of the pavement.
On a decent, smooth surface they may as well be stock.
But if you're on well worn asphalt or concrete you can feel the texture.

Compared to S3 bushings, I'm not sure because I haven't had them.
I read a post elsewhere from someone who tried both that stated that the NVH increase with the TT bushings was minimal, but the performance increase was more noticeable.

My car is my daily driver.
Click to expand...

MrFancypants said:
It's been over a week and the bushings have loosened up a touch.
Either I've quickly gotten used to the small increase in NVH or it's settled down to about where I feel is appropriate for a sport compact.
If you're still rolling on the wimpy stock bushings I think you should seriously consider these if you want a cheap "OEM+" upgrade, because the benefits far outweigh the price.
Click to expand...

valgargg1 said:
I installed the TT-RS / RS3 bushings on my 2006 Audi A3.
The results of the new bushings are good.
Tightens up the front, better turn in, reduced dive, reduced body roll/lean in turns.
Changes are small but noticeable.
Click to expand...
Is there 4 different OEM versions of the control arm RUBBER bushings ?

* Stock VW Golf-5/6 ? ( Sooftest )
* Stock VW Golf-5/6 GTI
* Stock Audi S3
* Stock Audi RS3 ( Hardest )
 
MrFancypants

MrFancypants

Autocross Champion
2stroke said:
Is there 4 different OEM versions of the control arm RUBBER bushings ?

* Stock VW Golf-5/6 ? ( Sooftest )
* Stock VW Golf-5/6 GTI
* Stock Audi S3
* Stock Audi RS3 ( Hardest )
Click to expand...
At this point I'm not sure anymore. I *think* (not sure) that the Golf and GTI came with the same bushings, at least I can't imagine making the stock GTI bushings any softer than they are. There used to be an option in between the GTI and TT bushing that I believe was the S3 which had more rubber but still had some air in it, but now when I look for S3 bushings they're the same as the solid TT bushings.
 
B

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Just ordered a set of the RS3 bushings to replace my old S3 ones. Also got the front control arm bushings. Anyone remove the driver side control arm on a DSG? I know you can drop the subframe a bit to get the front bolt out, but I've heard you can also tilt the engine forward enough to get it out? Curious if anyone has any real world experience doing it. Don't really feel like dropping the subframe again lol. I'm thinking I can maybe use the car's scissors jack to wedge between the block and subframe and extend it out to push the engine forward easily.
 
2stroke

2stroke

New member
MrFancypants said:
At this point I'm not sure anymore.
I *think* (not sure) that the Golf and GTI came with the same bushings, at least I can't imagine making the stock GTI bushings any softer than they are.
There used to be an option in between the GTI and TT bushing that I believe was the S3 which had more rubber but still had some air in it,
but now when I look for S3 bushings they're the same as the solid TT bushings.
Click to expand...
What about bushings from the VW Golf-5 R32 ? or the Leon-II Cupra ?

Do you have any part #'s and makers of:
* Audi RS3 rubber bushings ?
* Audi S3 rubber bushings ?
* Audi TT-RS rubber bushings ?
 
Chisel_86

Chisel_86

Go Kart Champion
MrFancypants said:
Special tools needed:
- OEM Tools bearing and race installer set, 27119
-- https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27119-Bearing-Race-Installer/dp/B0006307SQ
---This tool is on AutoZone's loan-a-tool program, so borrow it for free
- Three jaw puller, also an AutoZone loaner tool
- 8" c-clamp, although a 6" may work
- A Big Ass Hammer ™

Parts:
Febi #33973, I got my pair from Amazon
Control arm brackets bolts
-- N10579702 x 4, 16mm M10x76
-- N91039802 x 2, 18mm M12x1.5x90
--- Absolutely replace these bolts, if you try to reuse one and break it you're going to have a bad time
Click to expand...
For a spirited daily driver, do you recommend these over the Superpro, whiteline, etc. that have the added caster, based on price?
 
g-magoo

g-magoo

Autocross Champion
Chisel_86 said:
And this will fit the GTI also? It doesn't look like it has the same offset on the mounting surfaces.
Click to expand...
I'd have to assume so, but I noticed the difference in the offset of the mounting 'flange'. I'd say it'll bolt up, but how that changes the orientation/alignment of the control arm, I have no clue.
 
torga

torga

Autocross Champion
Chisel_86 said:
And this will fit the GTI also? It doesn't look like it has the same offset on the mounting surfaces.
Click to expand...

I'm not 100% sure that the TT-RS bracket will bolt up to the GTI position. BUT, the bushing itself certainly fits in the GTI bracket. VW/Audi doesn't sell the bushing by itself, but Febi makes it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top