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APR K04 TSI DIY Install

Since I might feel lazy, i most likely will jack up a corner of the car, slide under, remove axle heat sheild and spray PB plaster on every nut/bolt (down pipe, and turbo bracket. etc.

not sure what I'll be able to spray from the top of car.. even with stage2 intake pipe out of the way, have to hit it from side of car, looking down.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Finally got my F23T in, and installed it yesterday -- but now I have a small coolant drip :/.

I don't think it's coming from the return or the plug on the rear of the turbo .... Which means I need to pull the damn thing out again and snug up the supply line.

Does anyone have any idea if that coolant supply banjo is accessible (just to tighten down) while the turbo is installed? I really don't want to pull it :(


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timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Finally got my F23T in, and installed it yesterday -- but now I have a small coolant drip :/.

I don't think it's coming from the return or the plug on the rear of the turbo .... Which means I need to pull the damn thing out again and snug up the supply line.

Does anyone have any idea if that coolant supply banjo is accessible (just to tighten down) while the turbo is installed? I really don't want to pull it :(


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Well turns out it was the return all along, thankfully! The F23T had a thick washer on the coolant plug in the lower position - that washer was keeping the coolant line from fully seating. As soon as a removed the washer - and added redline tape for good measure - everything snugged right down and I'm back on the road!




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KFahey

Ready to race!
Hey guys quick question, can i reuse the copper washers for the coolant and oil plugs on the turbo when swapping them to the correct position? Not sure if I was given enough washers from HPA for the plugs.

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KFahey

Ready to race!
Nice didn't think so....gonna have to order more. I also didn't have thick and thin washers...they are all the same thickness....I ordered the thick one but couldn't find a part number for the thin washer.....

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timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Really bummed out to be doing this *again* ... had a small coolant leak after my F23T install... so I just finished pulling the turbo out so I can clean everything and start again.

While I was pulling it out, though, I noticed that I neglected to reconnect to the oil-supply-line bracket. It looks like it's supposed to connect right below the DV -- but for the life of me I can not see how to do that without bending the hard-line.

It's a brand-new supply line -- I replaced it and the return line when I did the F23T install (had an oil leak on my K04 -- figured I'd just do new lines on this one). Is it normal to have to "massage" the line into place?
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Well to answer my own question -- bending the line gently here and there worked great, so is it normal to have to? Who knows. Can you? Absolutely.

It's also worth nothing that those hex-head bolts on the Oil Return line are total garbage. Swapped mine out for standard bolts. They're M6x1.0x16, and I used split-lock washers. Snugged them down much tighter than I felt comfortable with on those hex-head bolts (considering I snapped one off a couple months back)... and *finally* oil-leak free!

I had a persistent fine-oil-mist for as long as I've been K04 because of those friggen bolts. Glad to finally be rid of them.
 

ncsugray90

Ready to race!
Well to answer my own question -- bending the line gently here and there worked great, so is it normal to have to? Who knows. Can you? Absolutely.

It's also worth nothing that those hex-head bolts on the Oil Return line are total garbage. Swapped mine out for standard bolts. They're M6x1.0x16, and I used split-lock washers. Snugged them down much tighter than I felt comfortable with on those hex-head bolts (considering I snapped one off a couple months back)... and *finally* oil-leak free!

I had a persistent fine-oil-mist for as long as I've been K04 because of those friggen bolts. Glad to finally be rid of them.
I'll make sure to do this when I'm finally able to install the k04 as well then. I certainly don't want oil leak issues!

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xHeartcoreboyx

IceCream GTI
Top works fine. You remove the axle shield with the two bolts.


Yup and also put that coolant line that runs behind the engine along with the coilpack harness aside..will save you A TON of effort and it's all just one 2 clamps and a connector.
 

Stadpad

Go Kart Champion
so are these washers correct? the thick washer next to turbo and skinny next to banjo bolt? this is the bolt facing the firewall (coolant).
 

MLue1

Drag Racing Champion
Thank You for this Post, using it to remove the turbo from the 2.0 TSI in my Tiguan. :thumbup:
 

Tony48

Go Kart Champion
Looking for some help here in regards to the thick washer that goes on the banjo bolt for the coolant return line. As I understand that washer is necessary to be thicker because it provides clearance between the banjo fitting and the block-off plug on the turbo. The washer is listed in the lilfleck's K04 install notes thread as "Coolant Return Line Washer (thick) N0138144." Unfortunately that part is now obsolete and I can't find any other M14 copper washer than is 2.5mm thick.

Anyone else able to source a comparable washer? Use 2 thin washers doubled up? My car is sitting in the garage with the turbo off as I try to figure this out because the CTS turbo kit didn't include replacement washers at all, much less the correct thickness.


EDIT: Jeff @ HS Tuning hooked me up. He had some old stock of the correct part and shipped a pair out to me. Thanks again Jeff!
 
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