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Can strut bearing be replaced without removing strut?
- Thread starter michel
- Start date
Michel, thanks a lot for posting this. At what point did you remove the 3 x 13mm bolts that are holding the mounts to the body? Did you also have to position a jack under the suspension to prevent it from dropping down? Finally did you have sufficient clearance to use your 7mm hex + socket to undo the upper strut mount bolt with the rain tray plastic in place?
I'm getting some noise from the mounts/bearing and I would like to replace mine as well. What you've described would save myself and a whole bunch of us a lot of time and effort.
Will wait for your response!
^I only replaced the bearing so I never removed the mount bolts. I suppose I would remove them after removing the top strut nut and dropping the strut.
Yes, I did support the strut with a floor jack (sorry, forgot to mention this). I actually compressed the spring/strut up with the jack a bit to ease the top nut removal, then brought it all down.
I had to bend the rain tray up a bit (popped it out of place a bit), but there was sufficient room to fit the socket + hex. Here is the socket I used:
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/pages/st/manu_cruz/cruztools12-03771.php
I put the hex through the top of the socket, and used a wrench to turn the top hex part of the spark plug socket simultaneously.
Hope this helps.
Yes, I did support the strut with a floor jack (sorry, forgot to mention this). I actually compressed the spring/strut up with the jack a bit to ease the top nut removal, then brought it all down.
I had to bend the rain tray up a bit (popped it out of place a bit), but there was sufficient room to fit the socket + hex. Here is the socket I used:
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/pages/st/manu_cruz/cruztools12-03771.php
I put the hex through the top of the socket, and used a wrench to turn the top hex part of the spark plug socket simultaneously.
Hope this helps.
snobrdrdan
former GTI owner
Makes sense now
Jack under the control arm
Remove the top strut nut
Lower the jack a little and the strut/spring will lower, leaving the mount attached to the strut tower
Reach up in there and grab the bearing (it'll either be sitting on top of the spring or still snug inside the strut mount)
Swap it out
Then jack up the control arm and line up the strut rod with the strut mount's hole
Tighten the nut down
Just make sure you snap the dust boot back into the strut bearing (that's what hold it in place at the top to seal it up)
And also make sure the bump stop is seated into the strut mount as well (it slides into the cup of the mount)
Jack under the control arm
Remove the top strut nut
Lower the jack a little and the strut/spring will lower, leaving the mount attached to the strut tower
Reach up in there and grab the bearing (it'll either be sitting on top of the spring or still snug inside the strut mount)
Swap it out
Then jack up the control arm and line up the strut rod with the strut mount's hole
Tighten the nut down
Just make sure you snap the dust boot back into the strut bearing (that's what hold it in place at the top to seal it up)
And also make sure the bump stop is seated into the strut mount as well (it slides into the cup of the mount)
Michel or snobrdrdan, I need to replace both the mounts and bearings on my B6 Passat. Do you think there's sufficient room to remove and replace the mounts or is there just enough to swap the bearings only?
The non-OEM mounts that the mechanic used during my suspension refresh make 'squishy' noises over bumps in the cold weather and the (most probably) non-OEM bearings on my car are causing some spring binding issues at low speeds. I'd like to replace them both before the weather gets too prohibitive.
Many thanks for your responses.
The non-OEM mounts that the mechanic used during my suspension refresh make 'squishy' noises over bumps in the cold weather and the (most probably) non-OEM bearings on my car are causing some spring binding issues at low speeds. I'd like to replace them both before the weather gets too prohibitive.
Many thanks for your responses.
snobrdrdan
former GTI owner
Yeah it could work....assuming they are shorter aftermarket springs with not a lot of preload on them
Place a jack under the LCA
Undo the top nut
Lower it down
Pull the bearing out (if it's not "stuck" to the mount still)
(the mount should still be attached to the strut tower) Remove the 3 bolts holding the mount
Swap out the mount (make sure it's oriented correctly!!!)
Put the new bearing on top of the spring & line it all up while jacking it up slowly
Put the strut nut back on
Place a jack under the LCA
Undo the top nut
Lower it down
Pull the bearing out (if it's not "stuck" to the mount still)
(the mount should still be attached to the strut tower) Remove the 3 bolts holding the mount
Swap out the mount (make sure it's oriented correctly!!!)
Put the new bearing on top of the spring & line it all up while jacking it up slowly
Put the strut nut back on
Roadrunner_GTI
Drag Racing Champion
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I wanted to follow up on this since there didn't seem to be much feedback. I was able to replace both the strut mount and strut bearing with the strut still attached to the spindle and control arm. All I did was follow the steps above and used a spring compressor to gain clearance to pull out the mount. This saved a ton of time rather than removing the entire strut assembly.