kennega
Ready to race!
For those looking to install an oil pressure gauge, I figured I would hack up a quick how-to on how to accomplish this. Without further ado...
Products Used
Osir Black Satin Dual O-Pod
42DD Oil Pressure Relocation Kit
Defi 60mm Racer Imperial Pressure Gauge
Mini Add-a-Fuse (Bussmann BP/HHH style)
Tools Required
See Instructions from 42DD, but in place of the odd standard-size wrenches I used pliers.
24mm deep socket
5mm allen
Slip-joint pliers
Zip ties
Teflon Tape/Teflon Paste
Coat hanger or wire puller
Getting Started
First off, disconnect the battery. Remove the battery and the tray components.
Behind the battery tray, there's a grommet attached to the chassis where you can pass through your sender wiring. This is mine, you can see I've already passed my boost sensor wiring through here.
Using a coat hanger or similar pointed object, poke a hole and feed your wiring through. Use electrical tape and tape the wiring to the coat hanger and feed it through. Let the wiring hang loose for now.
Head back to the engine bay and reinstall the battery. Leave the negative terminal disconnected.
Determine where you're installing your gauge. I opted for Osir's dual pod setup to run oil pressure and oil temperature. Therefore I removed the shifter surround and the center console tray to feed my wiring through. Feed the sender wiring as well as your power/ground wiring through.
Re-assemble any removed trim.
Break out your add-a-fuses. I also purchased a cheap set of mini-fuses off eBay or Amazon so I have plenty to spare. Find a constant power source as well as a switched power source. You'll also need to tap into a dimming source, many people have used the vent lights. I used Fuse 2 (brake switch - switched) and 14 (aircon? constant) on my 2010, but I think everyone's car is different.
I grounded to the bolt barely visible at the top of the image.
Connect your wiring. I personally prefer soldering, but crimp connectors are fine as well. Use some electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing to cover up any wiring. Pay attention to your gauge manufacturer's wiring layout, for mine:
Red: 12V Power (constant)
Orange: Switched Power
White: Illumination
Black: Ground
Stuff the wiring out of the way, zip tie it somewhere under the steering column.
Head back to the engine bay, and break out your relocation kit from 42 Draft Designs. Assemble as instructed, and be sure to note whether your oil pressure sender on your oil pressure gauge is M10 or 1/8" NPT. The stock sender is M10, and the kit includes an M10-1/8" NPT adapter. Be sure you use teflon tape or paste on the threads - but remember that less is more here.
The stock oil pressure switch is located on the oil filter housing. Disconnect the stock oil pressure sender wire. Remove the stock oil pressure sender with a 24mm deep well socket.
Thread your M10 adapter into the block, and thread the extension hose into it.
Assemble the rest of your kit - attach the relocation block to the extension hose, thread in the stock sender to the M10 port and your aftermarket sender to the proper port (M10 or NPT). Find a local ground, here I found a random bolt near my catch can bracket and torqued it down.
At this point you've got everything ready to go.
Before tidying up, start the car and check for leaks. Some items may need to be torqued down more, some may need more teflon tape/paste. Leaks will be apparent immediately. Check the adapter connection at the block, as well as all connections on the relocation block. Clean up any oil from any leaks.
Once you find a place to secure the relocation kit (I attached mine to my catch can) clean up your wiring and secure your sender wiring somewhere. My Defi kit had a slightly more elaborate setup than say, a VDO unit, but the idea is the same.
After all is cleaned up, have a peek at your oil pressure gauge. I'll see if I can get some better day/night pics once I've got the oil temp gauge working as well. Hope this helps someone.
Crappy pic:
Products Used
Osir Black Satin Dual O-Pod
42DD Oil Pressure Relocation Kit
Defi 60mm Racer Imperial Pressure Gauge
Mini Add-a-Fuse (Bussmann BP/HHH style)
Tools Required
See Instructions from 42DD, but in place of the odd standard-size wrenches I used pliers.
24mm deep socket
5mm allen
Slip-joint pliers
Zip ties
Teflon Tape/Teflon Paste
Coat hanger or wire puller
Getting Started
First off, disconnect the battery. Remove the battery and the tray components.
Behind the battery tray, there's a grommet attached to the chassis where you can pass through your sender wiring. This is mine, you can see I've already passed my boost sensor wiring through here.
Using a coat hanger or similar pointed object, poke a hole and feed your wiring through. Use electrical tape and tape the wiring to the coat hanger and feed it through. Let the wiring hang loose for now.
Head back to the engine bay and reinstall the battery. Leave the negative terminal disconnected.
Determine where you're installing your gauge. I opted for Osir's dual pod setup to run oil pressure and oil temperature. Therefore I removed the shifter surround and the center console tray to feed my wiring through. Feed the sender wiring as well as your power/ground wiring through.
Re-assemble any removed trim.
Break out your add-a-fuses. I also purchased a cheap set of mini-fuses off eBay or Amazon so I have plenty to spare. Find a constant power source as well as a switched power source. You'll also need to tap into a dimming source, many people have used the vent lights. I used Fuse 2 (brake switch - switched) and 14 (aircon? constant) on my 2010, but I think everyone's car is different.
I grounded to the bolt barely visible at the top of the image.
Connect your wiring. I personally prefer soldering, but crimp connectors are fine as well. Use some electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing to cover up any wiring. Pay attention to your gauge manufacturer's wiring layout, for mine:
Red: 12V Power (constant)
Orange: Switched Power
White: Illumination
Black: Ground
Stuff the wiring out of the way, zip tie it somewhere under the steering column.
Head back to the engine bay, and break out your relocation kit from 42 Draft Designs. Assemble as instructed, and be sure to note whether your oil pressure sender on your oil pressure gauge is M10 or 1/8" NPT. The stock sender is M10, and the kit includes an M10-1/8" NPT adapter. Be sure you use teflon tape or paste on the threads - but remember that less is more here.
The stock oil pressure switch is located on the oil filter housing. Disconnect the stock oil pressure sender wire. Remove the stock oil pressure sender with a 24mm deep well socket.
Thread your M10 adapter into the block, and thread the extension hose into it.
Assemble the rest of your kit - attach the relocation block to the extension hose, thread in the stock sender to the M10 port and your aftermarket sender to the proper port (M10 or NPT). Find a local ground, here I found a random bolt near my catch can bracket and torqued it down.
At this point you've got everything ready to go.
Before tidying up, start the car and check for leaks. Some items may need to be torqued down more, some may need more teflon tape/paste. Leaks will be apparent immediately. Check the adapter connection at the block, as well as all connections on the relocation block. Clean up any oil from any leaks.
Once you find a place to secure the relocation kit (I attached mine to my catch can) clean up your wiring and secure your sender wiring somewhere. My Defi kit had a slightly more elaborate setup than say, a VDO unit, but the idea is the same.
After all is cleaned up, have a peek at your oil pressure gauge. I'll see if I can get some better day/night pics once I've got the oil temp gauge working as well. Hope this helps someone.
Crappy pic:
