Most Effective Upgrades/Maintenance

Hey everyone, I bought a used CPO VW GTI MK6 (2010) with 45,500miles in 2015. Signed up on this forum, and then totally forgot about it. So consider this my first hello.
My mk6 now has 69500 miles on it and I’m about to do a 70k service of just oil, filter, and air filter. All other scheduled maintenance is up to date and the car is bone stock.


Car has no issues other than a vacuum hose came loose the other day and threw a bunch of misfire codes. Plugged the hose back in and car runs totally fine.

As much as I love this platform, I’m not much into performance tuning and modding - that’s why I ride motorcycles. My car needs to be durable, long lasting and practical.


I’m going to check to check if I have the old or new cam chain tensioner.

Other than that, what sort of things can you guys recommend I do in terms of preventative maintenance? Are there any other oem parts that are know to be shit that can be upgraded?

Thanks!

Definitely check the tensioner. I would do spark plugs and coils if not completed yet. You should also look at your PCV to make sure it hasn't shit the bed. If it does, it'll blow out your RMS and then you'll have a real problem on your hands. I would change the fuel filter. Other than that you should be all set. Also are you 6MT or DSG?

Thanks @slowgti08, appreciate the help!

My GTI is a 6MT

Fuel Filter and Water pump have been replaced, my water pump blew not too long ago and had it replaced.
I know the fuel filter was replaced while i had ownership, but cant remember offhand how long ago.

I replaced my spark plugs at 60k, but didn't do the coils.

PCV is pressure control valve right? I did some looking around and can't find what RMS is...

MKVIDavid said:

Thanks @slowgti08, appreciate the help!

My GTI is a 6MT

Fuel Filter and Water pump have been replaced, my water pump blew not too long ago and had it replaced.
I know the fuel filter was replaced while i had ownership, but cant remember offhand how long ago.

I replaced my spark plugs at 60k, but didn't do the coils.

PCV is pressure control valve right? I did some looking around and can't find what RMS is...

Click to expand...

RMS = Rear Main Seal. It's like a $50-$75 part but since you have to get at the clutch to replace it, so it's an expensive job. Ask me how I know.

Replacing rubber parts in the suspension and shifter assembly go a long way to keeping the car feeling tight. Audi TT control arm bushings in the front control arm (rear position) are amazing.

I had my intake manifold go around 20k, and it is known to crack. I'd double check the service records to see if it's been checked (or replaced.) If not, you should have it inspected during the 70k service.

Short Bus said:

Replacing rubber parts in the suspension and shifter assembly go a long way to keeping the car feeling tight. Audi TT control arm bushings in the front control arm (rear position) are amazing.

Click to expand...

+1 Thanks for your original DIY post. They make for more repeatable alignment settings as well.

I replaced my coils at 55k miles after 2 blew out. Felt like a completely different car after. So much more responsive.

Short Bus said:

Replacing rubber parts in the suspension and shifter assembly go a long way to keeping the car feeling tight. Audi TT control arm bushings in the front control arm (rear position) are amazing.

Click to expand...

do you have the part numbers for the Audi TT?

MLue1 said:

+1 Thanks for your original DIY post. They make for more repeatable alignment settings as well.

Click to expand...

No problem, really happy to help.

Blakcard said:

do you have the part numbers for the Audi TT?

Click to expand...

Aye, Febi 33973.

No press needed to get them in. I used a three jaw puller and bearing press plates, both can be borrowed from Autozone. The challenge that requires some creativity to get around is getting the control arm rods through the bushings if you leave the arms on the car.

Timing chain tensioner. If you're like me, while you're changing the tensioner, you'll also replace all the timing guides, chain, bolts, gaskets and seals. Or wait and change all at 120k. But don't wait on the tensioner.

Carbon cleaning and intake manifold at some point.

Downpipe/flexpipe. If yours splits or get pitted, upgrade to an eBay one for like $150.

Transmission fluid.

Full filter.

Cabin air filter.





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