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'11 Timing Chain Tensioner Failure

zanyrsc

zanyrsc

Ready to race!
i did this last weekend , i would recommend replacing the lower timimg cover. if it gets damage could lead to oil leak in the future and most of the job consist on removing the cover. there is no instructions to removing the tensioner by itself. i will recommend not removing the damper on the cams(i did not remove it) there is a tsb that states , when removing the damper timing ill move and you will have to reset timing,
ones the lower cover is remove remove the lock from the tensioner(there is a small metal piece on the top of the tensioner that locks the teeth when you try to press in on it)you can lock it by using a small drill bit.
install the new tencioner check timing marks . recommend turning the engine by hand a few times to get oil flowing to tencioner.
good lock
about 3.5 hours to install with a lift and engine brace
 
allset

allset

Go Kart Champion
lilfleck said:
Can you post a link to the parts (not RTV)?
Click to expand...

Install Revised Timing Chain Upper Tensioner and Replacement Parts

06K109467K 1 (upper tensioner)

D 174003A2 1

N 10552402 2

N 10701501 3

N 90596906 1

N 91029602 1

WHT001760 1

06H109210Q 1

N91096702 15 (bolts for cover plate)
 
L

lowerthanzimmy

Go Kart Champion
damn, haven't been here in awhile... this thread escalated quickly huh? lol
 
theburningclutch

theburningclutch

Ready to race!
Ran my VIN# today. Looks llike I have the updated tensioners.

06H 109 467N
06H 109 467L

Sure a big releif being that I drive alot, especially long distances. Seems like these things break when you are as far away from home as possible.

Mine is a 2011 with a build date of 05/2011. 27,500 trouble free miles so far. Asside from a bad clutch when I went to stage 1.
 
rs999

rs999

Go Kart Champion
theburningclutch said:
Ran my VIN# today. Looks llike I have the updated tensioners.

06H 109 467N
06H 109 467L

Sure a big releif being that I drive alot, especially long distances. Seems like these things break when you are as far away from home as possible.

Mine is a 2011 with a build date of 05/2011. 27,500 trouble free miles so far. Asside from a bad clutch when I went to stage 1.
Click to expand...

Where did you run your VIN?
 
S

SweetJones_29

Ready to race!
I had my dsg fluid changed and my mech said to stick with using castrol 5w40. The cause for the failure is that other oils are more prone to to sluge. The oil passages around the tensioner are very small and can clog up. That is why vw recommends castrol since it is suppose to be less prone to slug. He said he has only seen this issue once and it was because of slug. I sure the are other issues that can cause the problem.
 
theburningclutch

theburningclutch

Ready to race!
rs999 said:
Where did you run your VIN?
Click to expand...

I rang up the parts department at my local dealer. Give them your VIN and they should be able to find which parts numbers were installed at the factory. Hope this helps, other members have done the same.

Thanks to those who posted this info earlier.
 
B

BAM its mitch

Go Kart Champion
theburningclutch said:
I rang up the parts department at my local dealer. Give them your VIN and they should be able to find which parts numbers were installed at the factory. Hope this helps, other members have done the same.

Thanks to those who posted this info earlier.
Click to expand...
That isn't correct. I believe that just tells you what part should be installed on your car now, not what actually was installed from the factory.

SweetJones_29 said:
I had my dsg fluid changed and my mech said to stick with using castrol 5w40. The cause for the failure is that other oils are more prone to to sluge. The oil passages around the tensioner are very small and can clog up. That is why vw recommends castrol since it is suppose to be less prone to slug. He said he has only seen this issue once and it was because of slug. I sure the are other issues that can cause the problem.
Click to expand...
This has already been proven to be false.
 
HYDE161

HYDE161

Go Kart Champion
BAM its mitch said:
That isn't correct. I believe that just tells you what part should be installed on your car now, not what actually was installed from the factory.


This has already been proven to be false.
Click to expand...

Correct. The dealership does not tell you which part you have. Also I would run your part numbers against Dave@HStuning as their replacement/upgrade kit has the upper tensioner with the part number K.
 
V

vwgti2.0t

Go Kart Champion
zanyrsc said:
i did this last weekend , i would recommend replacing the lower timimg cover. if it gets damage could lead to oil leak in the future and most of the job consist on removing the cover. there is no instructions to removing the tensioner by itself. i will recommend not removing the damper on the cams(i did not remove it) there is a tsb that states , when removing the damper timing ill move and you will have to reset timing,
ones the lower cover is remove remove the lock from the tensioner(there is a small metal piece on the top of the tensioner that locks the teeth when you try to press in on it)you can lock it by using a small drill bit.
install the new tencioner check timing marks . recommend turning the engine by hand a few times to get oil flowing to tencioner.
good lock
about 3.5 hours to install with a lift and engine brace
Click to expand...

What did you use to keep tension on the chains while you removed the tensioner? Why did you even have to get near the cams? Isn't the tensioner under the bottom cover and the cams under the top cover? Or are you talking about the balance shafts.. What timing marks are you checking..the links on the chain to the gears, or the pulley mark? Don't you have to rotate the TSI like 160 times or something ridiculous to see if the timing marks on the chain line up?

One fairly big question I have is taking off the balancer. By reading Nuespeed's directions on putting on their power pulley they mention in huge bold text to line up the mark on the pulley and then to make sure nothing moves when you take it off. Anyone know why this is? Is it just so you get the toothed back of it lined up again upon reinstallation? Thats the only reason I could see.

Thanks in advance for answering any of these. I'm getting geared up to do this and don't think it should be a bad job at all, just trying to get a few questions in order. My plan was to remove the bottom cover, ziptie the guides together so I can keep tension, remove the old tensioner and replace with the new one without moving anything. Button it back up and it should be good to go.
 
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