Marc Hi,
Wow brother what an amazing thread you guys have with ever so perfect before and after pics. Highly commend you on your work its amazing to watch...
I've gotta say this i think you just saved me about $600 bucks in the dealer doing its pre delivery and detailing on my new gti which ill get next week.
Having said that being in Australia i know of a few places that do extremely top level work. In the interim before it goes away to get a treatment heres my plan helpme out with any suggestion you may have.
I'll collect the car making sure the dealers do there normal vehicle check but no detailing. The car is Candy White. What's a top wash product with the relevant (ill say sponges but i know its the wrong term for this top end work) etc to use for now. I'm wanting that Candy White to look absolutely in your face bright and I'm sure once i can get it to a proper detailer it will be totally candy....
thanks again for the share.
Hello from the top-side of earth, and I hope all is well in the southern hemisphere (aside from the extremely large arachnids and other creatures).
While I know of many great top-end guys here in the States, I can't really point you to anyone is Australia
The good news is that between the big 3 eastern cities, I'm sure there's SOMEONE who is trying to do real high-end work. I just don't know where to look. To begin, you're looking for a "paint correction expert" that can help you get on the right track. Even if you do all the work yourself, I'm sure you can understand the benefit in having a local resource to ask questions and help you along.
I'd like to point out that Candy White will NEVER looks the same as metallic black. That doesn't mean you don't get a return in an increase in clarity of your paint, but that it's not as immediately noticeable. What will be noticeable is caring for your new ride correctly over the next years. Before you run, you must walk, but let's start with a crawl first.
1. Invest in quality car care goods. NOT cheap, and in Australia, REALLY REALLY not cheap! Sourcing, and stocking quality car care products isn't going to be easy for you I'm thinking. While usually I tell people to do plenty of research to make sure they're buying what they feel they really need and what will really help, research pays off even more for you, as if you order anything from the US or the UK, you need to make sure you're getting enough products / tools / equipment / detailing supplies to justify placing that order. Ordering in bulk is truly needed, and for you... double the bulk size. NOT cheap. It might even be worth buying 2-3x more, and being able to sell some things locally if you don't like them.
Luckily there are some universal things you'll need. Two Grit Guards, quality wash mitts, waffle weave microfiber towels, plush microfiber towels, car wash shampoo, wheel cleaner, wheel cleaning brushes, all purpose cleaner, tire dressing, trim dressing, interior dressing / cleaner, Iron-X / Iron-cut, etc. Once again, it might be worth ordering much more than you need. Maybe purchase 4 Grit Guards though you only need 2 and sell off the others, or keep a spare just in case.
2. Learn the right wash technique so you're in good habits. One bad wash is all it takes to create a lot of swirls, scuffs, and scratches, which take away from clarity, gloss, and brilliance of the pearl paint. You'll get more efficient as you go, and at first, it'll take a bit more time.
3. Research research research. Did i mention to also research? I like some products that some other top-notch guys don't like as much, and the other way around. Understand the difference in a truth, an option, and a marketing tactic.
4. Clay and Iron-X / Iron-cut. These means a lot to many cars, but no color benefits more from them than white. White can be beautiful and "pure" looking. It can also look dulled down and tired. Clay will remove contamination from your clear-coat which makes the surface much more pure white in color, and Iron-X or Iron-cut are used to dissolve iron deposits stuck into your clear-coat from your brakes and fall-out. You'll notice small "rust" spots in your clear-coat, especially the paint behind your wheels, on the rear bumper, and on the rear-hatch. Aerodynamics play a major roll in pushing rotor shavings back into your paint in these areas, which stick in your clear-coat and oxidize. You can remove them from clay, but you're much better off with Iron-x or Iron-cut TRUST ME on this one. Order several bottles as this stuff will be your best friend over the next couple of years.
5. Polishing. This is the mechanic re-leveling of your clear-coat to remove defects leaving a truly better-than-new finish. You've already seen page one of this thread, and I think you can understand that this GTI was truly in better-than-new condition once finished. This is something you can learn to potentially do yourself. Sure you might not get the result of someone heavily invested in time, equipment, and with lots of experience, but you can without a doubt improve your finish to minimize swirls and fine scratches. Consider a DA ("dual-action" as it orbits and rotates) polisher with assorted pads and polishes. Meguiar's 105, 205, and Menzerna 106fa are three polishes I'd recommend along with blue, black, white, and Surbuf pads.
The first time you try polishing should be something very mild. You're goal should be to learn and improve your technique - not get rid of all defects. People have ruined their paint by polishing, even with DA polishers, but using common sense and training yourself will go a long way. Start with a final polish and a light pad with the goal of adding gloss to your finish the first time you use it, and then go from there. The more aggressive pads and polishes are for future dates.
6. Use your resources to your advantage. Boards like this have a wealth of information, and there are some real good guys that can give you great reviews and feedback. Also beware that some people know more than others, while some know very little :lol:
I hope this helps, congrat's on the GTI, and GL!