EastKingZ
Ready to race!
Shipping was quick and I ordered when it said two left so I imagine you got the last one. :thumbsup:
6
Build your own RSR clutch kit - Parts list
- Thread starter Calkulin
- Start date
Shipping was quick and I ordered when it said two left so I imagine you got the last one. :thumbsup:
ncsugray90
Ready to race!
Do you already have all this installed and running, no issues? I'm rebuilding a K04 soon and will need to upgrade my clutch before I put it in.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
ncsugray90
Ready to race!
The TOB and clutch disk themselves are stock for the GTI right? Really the only thing being "upgraded" is the PP?
If so would it make sense to get this kit from Rock Auto vs. buying a clutch disk and TOB separately?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4994658&cc=1447793&jsn=363&jsn=363
If so would it make sense to get this kit from Rock Auto vs. buying a clutch disk and TOB separately?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4994658&cc=1447793&jsn=363&jsn=363
havocsrt
Ready to race!
That TOB wont work, its the two piece. You need the newer one piece version.
ncsugray90
Ready to race!
Oh, I thought it looked just like the one on the original page, aww well, haha
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Another happy RSR owner
I have a '14 CC with the APR Stage 1 93 Octane (v1.2) tune that was slipping the clutch in 4th. After a ton of research, I decided to go with the RSR kit to keep the stock feel, engagement, noise levels, etc. I can honestly say that I love the clutch.
One thing I can say is I disagree and agree with some comments of other people on the board as to what to expect. So, since the TTRS PP is self-adjusting, it does take many clutch press cycles and such for it to adjust itself out, this is especially true on our cars which this part was not made for. I'm sure as others have stated, the clutch surface on the flywheel is likely recessed a bit more than the TT which is why the PP has to adjust so much and why it takes some time as I'm sure the ring mechanism on the inside of the PP is only allowed to move in very small increments so the normal wear of the clutch and PP adjustment are even and work together.
Anyway, the factory PP in my opinion has a very even engagement, so the pedal pressure is fairly consistent from beginning to end while the TTRS PP is very “peaky”. There’s a very sharp “hump” to get over with a good amount of pressure at first, then there’s hardly anything. This is exaggerated when the clutch is new and its adjustment is set back to the start. That is why so many people have such a hard time with the engagement and stall their cars at first… that hump is all of the way on the floor, so as soon as you start to release the clutch pedal, the force of that hump pushes hard on your foot and that’s right where that clutch starts to engage, so there’s an extremely small window of engagement that you are working with from disengaged to engaged, very small window. After you put some miles on it… I want to say it seems like it evened out around 800 or so miles but I felt fully confident that it had settled in and had fully adjusted itself by 1000 miles. Now that it’s fully adjusted, the “hump” is much less noticeable and extreme as well as being up the pedal travel quite a bit further to what I would consider a normal zone.
The extreme “peaky” feel of the pedal is much less exaggerated for sure and definitely feels a lot more like the stock clutch did. With that said, it still does not feel exactly like the stock clutch as others have stated. There is a bit more pressure, maybe 25%-40% more pressure just as a guess but there definitely is a little more pressure which isn’t a bad thing considering how light the stock pedal was. The peaky feel is still there to some degree but way more controllable and manageable compared to how it was right after the install.
The pedal engagement point is lower than stock which is also a good thing and thankfully the stock adjustment mechanism in the TTRS PP somehow works with this setup as that could have potentially been a problem with the parts being mismatched (PP and FW). Kudos to the guy who originally said, "screw it, I'm drilling these holes out and trying this thing."
So overall, I’d say the engagement point is lower than stock however nowhere near on the floor, there is a slightly higher pedal pressure, and the feel of the clutch is very similar to stock but slightly peakier. With that said, after driving your car for 1000 miles, you get so used to it that you have to pay attention to even notice the peaky feel that the PP had when it was first installed… it’s much less exaggerated.
Man does this clutch grab though, holy smokes. A lot of people here get hung up on the clutch disc being the more desirable euro-spec disc however I really find it hard to believe that the two are that much different in the end as most of the power holding capabilities of this setup is due to the added clamping force. I’d be willing to bet if you were to install this PP on one of our cars right out of the factory with the factory clutch disc and everything, you would have the exact same results. I don’t think there’s anything special with the factory clutch discs and had I not had 20k on mine (which it hardly looked worn at all), I probably would have left it in and just installed the new PP and called it a day.
Thank you all again for the wealth of knowledge on this, pictures, part numbers, install process, and everything. It really has changed the car for a lot of us and allowed us to keep factory parts and factory like usability on our modified cars.
I have a '14 CC with the APR Stage 1 93 Octane (v1.2) tune that was slipping the clutch in 4th. After a ton of research, I decided to go with the RSR kit to keep the stock feel, engagement, noise levels, etc. I can honestly say that I love the clutch.
One thing I can say is I disagree and agree with some comments of other people on the board as to what to expect. So, since the TTRS PP is self-adjusting, it does take many clutch press cycles and such for it to adjust itself out, this is especially true on our cars which this part was not made for. I'm sure as others have stated, the clutch surface on the flywheel is likely recessed a bit more than the TT which is why the PP has to adjust so much and why it takes some time as I'm sure the ring mechanism on the inside of the PP is only allowed to move in very small increments so the normal wear of the clutch and PP adjustment are even and work together.
Anyway, the factory PP in my opinion has a very even engagement, so the pedal pressure is fairly consistent from beginning to end while the TTRS PP is very “peaky”. There’s a very sharp “hump” to get over with a good amount of pressure at first, then there’s hardly anything. This is exaggerated when the clutch is new and its adjustment is set back to the start. That is why so many people have such a hard time with the engagement and stall their cars at first… that hump is all of the way on the floor, so as soon as you start to release the clutch pedal, the force of that hump pushes hard on your foot and that’s right where that clutch starts to engage, so there’s an extremely small window of engagement that you are working with from disengaged to engaged, very small window. After you put some miles on it… I want to say it seems like it evened out around 800 or so miles but I felt fully confident that it had settled in and had fully adjusted itself by 1000 miles. Now that it’s fully adjusted, the “hump” is much less noticeable and extreme as well as being up the pedal travel quite a bit further to what I would consider a normal zone.
The extreme “peaky” feel of the pedal is much less exaggerated for sure and definitely feels a lot more like the stock clutch did. With that said, it still does not feel exactly like the stock clutch as others have stated. There is a bit more pressure, maybe 25%-40% more pressure just as a guess but there definitely is a little more pressure which isn’t a bad thing considering how light the stock pedal was. The peaky feel is still there to some degree but way more controllable and manageable compared to how it was right after the install.
The pedal engagement point is lower than stock which is also a good thing and thankfully the stock adjustment mechanism in the TTRS PP somehow works with this setup as that could have potentially been a problem with the parts being mismatched (PP and FW). Kudos to the guy who originally said, "screw it, I'm drilling these holes out and trying this thing."
So overall, I’d say the engagement point is lower than stock however nowhere near on the floor, there is a slightly higher pedal pressure, and the feel of the clutch is very similar to stock but slightly peakier. With that said, after driving your car for 1000 miles, you get so used to it that you have to pay attention to even notice the peaky feel that the PP had when it was first installed… it’s much less exaggerated.
Man does this clutch grab though, holy smokes. A lot of people here get hung up on the clutch disc being the more desirable euro-spec disc however I really find it hard to believe that the two are that much different in the end as most of the power holding capabilities of this setup is due to the added clamping force. I’d be willing to bet if you were to install this PP on one of our cars right out of the factory with the factory clutch disc and everything, you would have the exact same results. I don’t think there’s anything special with the factory clutch discs and had I not had 20k on mine (which it hardly looked worn at all), I probably would have left it in and just installed the new PP and called it a day.
Thank you all again for the wealth of knowledge on this, pictures, part numbers, install process, and everything. It really has changed the car for a lot of us and allowed us to keep factory parts and factory like usability on our modified cars.
StoutGuard
New member
Can anyone confirm that these parts would all be directly interchangable with a '12 GLI (Gen 1 TSI)
sauceman101
Ready to race!
Assuming you have a manual and not a DSG, yes.
Sorry if this is already been answered in the thread, but I'm driving to work and searching through 61 pages would be a little bit tough...
Halfway through the install, and I can't determine which way to put the clutch disk in. The factory disk doesn't have a longer or shorter side on the center "bushing". The new disk clearly does. Can anyone confirm which side goes towards the pressure plate and which side goes towards the flywheel?
Thanks in advance!!
Halfway through the install, and I can't determine which way to put the clutch disk in. The factory disk doesn't have a longer or shorter side on the center "bushing". The new disk clearly does. Can anyone confirm which side goes towards the pressure plate and which side goes towards the flywheel?
Thanks in advance!!
havocsrt
Ready to race!
Does that picture help bro? I can see if i have more, if not
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk