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Old 09-19-2017, 07:54 AM   #1
Passed Driver's Ed
Drives: 2012 Golf R
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Dundalk, MD
Posts: 14
Stabilization Fault - HELP!!

So basically my problem is a vacuum/boost issue and why I had the Stabilization fault. I hope what I write below is enough information you guys and gals to help me out.

Bought my 2012 R about a month ago with 96,xxx. Had it checked out by a local dub shop and it passed the inspection with flying colors. No leaks, and a bunch of other good stuff. Found out that it has a BSH PVC block off plate, GFB DV+ spacer and a stage 1 tune (unknown tuner). Sunday (20170917) I installed a new Forge TwinTake. Monday (20170918) I installed a Forge DV spacer.

I've driven the car for about 120 miles after the intake install. I've noticed the turbo wants to spool easier in some cases, but ends up spooling slower to full boost. Example: before intake, full boost by ~3200RPM. After intake, spools easier with low throttle input but full throttle leaves it creating full boost around ~3500RPM. After the Forge DV spacer install, I took the car for a short spin just because. It ran fine. Wake up today (20170919) and went to drive to work. The car feels A LOT slower and I noticed what sounded to be a boost leak. The car started to run horrible, fuel economy went to crap and then I had a Stabilization Fault. ESP and ESC went off, ABS went off, and the car refused to accept any throttle input. I stopped the car on the shoulder of the road and turned it off. Checked underneath the car and under the hood. No obvious indications of damage or anything coming loose. I checked the fluids just to be on the safe side and then started the car. Started fine with no lights on the dash but had a very rough idle, throttle response is horrible, will not create boost and stutters under minimal throttle input and normal cruising speed. The more throttle, the more it stutters. I get back home, shut it off and start it again. Starts fine but the idle is still rough. I left the car and got a ride to work.

My research:
Dead battery; I don't think this is the issue
-Reason: Car has a new battery installed by the dealer when purchased and the car starts back up with no issues.
Bad wheel bearing AND/OR ABS Module; I don't think this is the issue
-Reason: Passed inspection by both local shop and MD state inspection which check any and all safety related items which would include the wheel bearings and ABS.

Troubleshooting that I plan to do today after work is double check all of the couplers and DV spacer. If that doesn't resolve it, I'm removing the DV spacer and testing. Then removing the intake and testing. Would that be a good place to start or would there be something else to check prior to that?

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Last edited by SpecterXP; 09-19-2017 at 08:55 AM.
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