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Aftermarket rotors and pads

bluesrocker137

New member
Well, after a long Pennsylvania winter, the time for modding season is upon us! While my wheels and tires are being upgraded, I figured I would also get rid of a warped set of rotors and lackluster pads. I had myself set on a set of slotted Stoptech cryogenic treated rotors and EBC Redstuff pads, but sadly no one has the cryo treated rotors in stock for all four corners, and the estimated availability seems to be June.

I've got wheels and tires coming before then, and seeing as lugbolts aren't the friendliest system to get on and off, I would like to do everything at once.

Anyone have any suggestions here? I've always had a habit of warping rotors in no time on previous cars, seeing as I tend to drive a bit too aggressively. I want something that's going to hold up to my driving, both for rotors and pads. Are the redstuff pads the way to go (as I've seen on other forums) or is there something better out there? As far as rotors go, are there some other good alternatives out there that anyone could recommend for my purposes? Thanks as always for the help!
 

corrado917

Go Kart Champion

sterkrazzy

Autocross Champion
I went with slotted stoptechs and I like em. Just make sure you order the correct size rear rotors. 2010s have a larger rotor than 2011+ if I'm remembering right.
 

Roctre

Ready to race!
Did you go for the cryo treatment, or did you get good results with the non-treated rotors?

Are you tracking the car if not then the normal slotted rotors will be fine. Also just go with stoptech street perf pads pretty much everyone has loved them that got them.
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Well, after a long Pennsylvania winter, the time for modding season is upon us! While my wheels and tires are being upgraded, I figured I would also get rid of a warped set of rotors and lackluster pads. I had myself set on a set of slotted Stoptech cryogenic treated rotors and EBC Redstuff pads, but sadly no one has the cryo treated rotors in stock for all four corners, and the estimated availability seems to be June.

I've got wheels and tires coming before then, and seeing as lugbolts aren't the friendliest system to get on and off, I would like to do everything at once.

Anyone have any suggestions here? I've always had a habit of warping rotors in no time on previous cars, seeing as I tend to drive a bit too aggressively. I want something that's going to hold up to my driving, both for rotors and pads. Are the redstuff pads the way to go (as I've seen on other forums) or is there something better out there? As far as rotors go, are there some other good alternatives out there that anyone could recommend for my purposes? Thanks as always for the help!

Just buy Centric blank rotors. Probably 60 bucks for the high carbon ones. I think that Adams and Stoptech etc. begin life as Centric rotors before they are drilled and painted etc.

I run blanks on Golf R calipers street and track, work great. I have used slotted, drilled etc, more expensive, look great but no diff in how long they last or stop. (my experience over last 9 years)
 

bluesrocker137

New member
Are you tracking the car if not then the normal slotted rotors will be fine. Also just go with stoptech street perf pads pretty much everyone has loved them that got them.

No tracking, maybe an occasional autocross. How's the dust with the stoptech pads?
 

madbikes

Ready to race!
They can dust pretty quickly, but that is a fair trade off.
 

TimS

Go Kart Newbie
Cryo treating is snake oil; blank OEM or OE quality rotors will be perfectly fine. Your brakes aren't actually warping - you're depositing pad material unevenly on the surface of the rotor, and that's where the vibration comes from. Bedding the pads in properly will cut down on that.
 

Blakcard

Autocross Newbie
I went with slotted stoptechs and I like em. Just make sure you order the correct size rear rotors. 2010s have a larger rotor than 2011+ if I'm remembering right.

I went with these too...mostly for looks. Like the fact they don't rust as fast as the OEMs.
 
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