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XGC75 - One for the Road
- Thread starter XGC75
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XGC75
Go Kart Champion
Yeah it was a busy weekend alright.
First off, I fussed a bunch with the MAP harness:
Then I installed the DG springs, dampers, TT strut mounts and new bearings. Installation was actually easier than I thought. The bolts were all easy enough to crack @ 100k miles with a breaker bar. The sway bar endlink bolts would just turn in the ball joints until I figured out that the bolt terminates in an M6, so I pitched a 1/4 wrench around an M6 and the wrench end leaned against the frame so I could loosen the endlink nut without spinning the bolt. The spindles came off relatively easily once I got them spread far enough apart (I used two flat-head bits and a 1/4" box wrench to open it up). Also I ended up using a spark plug socket with the rubber insert removed to take the strut bolt apart - I could get a purchase on the hex head on top of that socket then send a 7mm allen wrench down the socket (where you'd normally attach a ratchet).
Endlinks:
These bolts. Surprised they came out.
The rears are much easier, aside from the rear top-mounts. Those are such a weird angle. Really hard to thread once everything is in place.
I love the new look though. It's a very subtle drop but it really makes the car look and feel smaller. The wheels look bigger and more well-fitted. Those 0.5 inches actually make me feel lower to the ground while sitting in the driver's seat as well. I wish I'd gotten the FTG measurements before so I could compare with the after-modification state. I've had no issues so far with the clearance but I've yet to really test it out in some of the more common inclines, curbs and roadkill I frequent.
Right after installation:
A bit more settled:
Steering weight is just a little lighter than before, overall. It's barely noticable, but notable nonetheless. The whole steering geometry is different, though. On-center is just a little bit less sensitive (+/- 10 degrees off center), but then at +/- 30 degrees the steering sensitivity is actually much greater, which makes around-town navigation (for things like 90 degree turns) a little easier.
It's a good thing that turn-in is marginally improved or that extra sensitivity would be upsetting the car's weight a little more than it does. That's because the front end doesn't dive quite as much into a turn, so the car feels less upset once the weight is transferred onto the outside wheels. In the middle of the turn I've noticed less body roll than before, which I wasn't expecting due to the raised roll-center when dropping the car. The contact patch feels a bit wider, like I have wider tires on the car, which lends more grip. Perhaps that's placebo or just something for 6-8 10ths and won't actually help at 9 or 10/10ths, I don't know. I'm not about to explore the ultimate grip on the street.
The ride quality, considering especially the damper refresh, is similar to before. It's marginally more bouncy, especially in rebound, but no where near enough to complain about. It's certainly not reminding me of poorly-sprung ricers or cheap bag setups. It's just a smidge stiffer than before as well. The car hits smaller imperfections just a bit harder than before but it's barely noticeable. Probably an effect of the TT strut mounts.
First off, I fussed a bunch with the MAP harness:
Been looking into MAP harness issues this weekend and I'm not sure I know more or less than before.
I started with the new *704 connector pigtail. Turns out it's the same damn connector as on the car. Meaning that either 1) the sensor used for the APR k04 v3.1 file is different than the one used in the Golf R, 2) I was given the part# for the GTI not the R, or 3) VW doesn't give any fucks about how well their connectors fit in mass production. I ruled out #2 pretty quickly with a quick search. Now I need to check on #1.
So I installed the new pigtail for shits and giggles with some quick-connects, in the event that the old one on the car was messed up somehow (the pins could have been pushed back and too far recessed, more on that later). The new pigtail didn't work at all with the new sensor (constant overboosting at part throttle, no boost >7.5 PSI). It worked a little with the old sensor (not always overboosting at part throttle, sometimes initially getting >7.5 PSI but always reverting to 7.5 PSI). Yet as I took it off, the latch snapped off. It must've been sitting on the shelf for a long time because this connector is much more brittle than the connector that was in my car. So now the new pigtail is useless aside from a reference outside the engine bay.
Did some measurements on the bench to understand how it all fits together. The connector is 20 mm deep. The sensor body takes up about 18 mm of that space as far as I can press it. The pins in the sensor are about 16 mm from the far-end of the sensor body. All in all the sensor pins are inserted about 4.6mm into the connector, which might be enough to make good contact but may not be enough if the connector pins are pushed back into the connector housing.
That extra length on the calipers is how far in the pins should insert from the face of the connector housing.
In the meantime I fitted the existing connector with quick-connects and installed it into the car. Didn't work. I added some solder to the wires at the engine harness and re-installed the quick-connects. Didn't work. I bypassed the connector completely, installing gold-plated quick-connects directly to the pins of the sensor and into some quick-connects which are soldered into the harness. Doesn't work with the new sensor, but it does work with the old sensor. Until the car warms up, then the connection seems to be intermittent.
On the one hand, this is the best I can do to make a connection to the MAP sensor. On the other, this is not nearly the best solution for a connection problem to the MAP and it sure as hell isn't a long-term solution. So I'm going to continue to track down the right connector for this MAP. I can't settle for anything less than the quality of connection of the stock parts.
Yet as it stands today there's no way I can take this car on a 2500 mile road trip in this condition. It's not so bad that I can't drive it around town but I'm not risking having a broken down car in the middle of nowhere in Kentucky. This is super disappointing because I was hoping it'd be at least good enough to baby down to South Carolina, where my buddy, a lead mechanic at a VW dealer, can take a look (and get a taste of k04).
Sincerely, XGC75
Then I installed the DG springs, dampers, TT strut mounts and new bearings. Installation was actually easier than I thought. The bolts were all easy enough to crack @ 100k miles with a breaker bar. The sway bar endlink bolts would just turn in the ball joints until I figured out that the bolt terminates in an M6, so I pitched a 1/4 wrench around an M6 and the wrench end leaned against the frame so I could loosen the endlink nut without spinning the bolt. The spindles came off relatively easily once I got them spread far enough apart (I used two flat-head bits and a 1/4" box wrench to open it up). Also I ended up using a spark plug socket with the rubber insert removed to take the strut bolt apart - I could get a purchase on the hex head on top of that socket then send a 7mm allen wrench down the socket (where you'd normally attach a ratchet).
Endlinks:
These bolts. Surprised they came out.
The rears are much easier, aside from the rear top-mounts. Those are such a weird angle. Really hard to thread once everything is in place.
I love the new look though. It's a very subtle drop but it really makes the car look and feel smaller. The wheels look bigger and more well-fitted. Those 0.5 inches actually make me feel lower to the ground while sitting in the driver's seat as well. I wish I'd gotten the FTG measurements before so I could compare with the after-modification state. I've had no issues so far with the clearance but I've yet to really test it out in some of the more common inclines, curbs and roadkill I frequent.
Right after installation:
A bit more settled:
Steering weight is just a little lighter than before, overall. It's barely noticable, but notable nonetheless. The whole steering geometry is different, though. On-center is just a little bit less sensitive (+/- 10 degrees off center), but then at +/- 30 degrees the steering sensitivity is actually much greater, which makes around-town navigation (for things like 90 degree turns) a little easier.
It's a good thing that turn-in is marginally improved or that extra sensitivity would be upsetting the car's weight a little more than it does. That's because the front end doesn't dive quite as much into a turn, so the car feels less upset once the weight is transferred onto the outside wheels. In the middle of the turn I've noticed less body roll than before, which I wasn't expecting due to the raised roll-center when dropping the car. The contact patch feels a bit wider, like I have wider tires on the car, which lends more grip. Perhaps that's placebo or just something for 6-8 10ths and won't actually help at 9 or 10/10ths, I don't know. I'm not about to explore the ultimate grip on the street.
The ride quality, considering especially the damper refresh, is similar to before. It's marginally more bouncy, especially in rebound, but no where near enough to complain about. It's certainly not reminding me of poorly-sprung ricers or cheap bag setups. It's just a smidge stiffer than before as well. The car hits smaller imperfections just a bit harder than before but it's barely noticeable. Probably an effect of the TT strut mounts.
Brunkel
Go Kart Champion
Oh and lastly, this happened today:
Sincerely, XGC75
And a CEL to go with it!
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ncsugray90
Ready to race!
Pretty encouraging to see a tuned car that hits the track have this kind of mileage. Hopefully you can get your MAP issues fixed soon.Oh and lastly, this happened today:
Sincerely, XGC75
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XGC75
Go Kart Champion
I have, yes. But the car passes the dipstick test (the car idles horribly with the crank case leak) and every time I touch the MAP connector the car behaves differently. As a philosophical matter, I just have to have the right part on the car anyhow. I suppose I'm just hopeful that putting the right connector in there is the fix I need. If not I'll end up addressing the PCV with a catch can.
Sincerely, XGC75
XGC75
Go Kart Champion
Done. The car runs utterly fantastic now. After 17 weeks and 4500 miles I'm finally out of the fog and mud.
Not only are the MAP issues fixed, but I have a new IM and water pump under warranty.
Not only are the MAP issues fixed, but I have a new IM and water pump under warranty.
ncsugray90
Ready to race!
So was there any reason to be replacing the MAP again since it seems it was the intake flaps causing all your issues, or did I miss something? Either way, glad to hear the car is back up and running strong!
XGC75
Go Kart Champion
No, the MAP was indeed faulty. The new MAP was good but I'd cut the connector surround off of it so we couldn't re-use it. The intake flaps were causing a separate issue than the MAP sensor. The small leak out the flapper shaft was causing some on-throttle hesitation.
My take on the MAP sensor is that the bad harness connection caused the sensors to go bad. Intermittent power from a bad connection can be pretty damaging to some sensors. Maybe that's just what I want to think because I want to think it's fixed for good. [emoji23]
Sincerely, XGC75
My take on the MAP sensor is that the bad harness connection caused the sensors to go bad. Intermittent power from a bad connection can be pretty damaging to some sensors. Maybe that's just what I want to think because I want to think it's fixed for good. [emoji23]
Sincerely, XGC75
XGC75
Go Kart Champion
After driving this car more I'm amazed at how well it's behaving. There is no hunting around for boost. I set the throttle angle, the car just ups boost until a point and it sticks there dead solid. Even as the engine revs up. The needle doesn't jump around during transitions, either. It's all so smooth.
One more very important thing: no more boost lost during shifts. I can dump the clutch 2nd to 3rd and the car just jumps ahead and doesn't let up. Definitely because of the IM update.
This is crazy. I didn't know the car was supposed to behave like this; it instills a little more faith in me for Bosch/VW engine controls.
EDIT: and the traction control. It wasn't working properly before but it will now just barely keep me from blowing the tires off. Shit's fast.
One more very important thing: no more boost lost during shifts. I can dump the clutch 2nd to 3rd and the car just jumps ahead and doesn't let up. Definitely because of the IM update.
This is crazy. I didn't know the car was supposed to behave like this; it instills a little more faith in me for Bosch/VW engine controls.
EDIT: and the traction control. It wasn't working properly before but it will now just barely keep me from blowing the tires off. Shit's fast.
Last edited:
XGC75
Go Kart Champion
At tire rack right now getting some Blizzak LM001 tires installed onto the Nurbs. It's going to be nice to roll around in the winter with some decent looking wheels. I did try to get a warranty honored for my 24424mi PSS, but they didn't believe I'd get anywhere with Michelin with chunks off the tread blocks from my proclaimed "spirited street driving." [emoji38]
Other recent developments: had to call my wife for a jump the other day after leaving the car off with accessory and radio on. It's a 5yr old battery, whatever. Also my rear brakes started dragging metal, so I'm installing the cryo blank rears with new pads this afternoon.
Last, I crawled under the car for my oil change and saw this. No wonder I hear clunks over uneven roads.
Other than that, I'm still bummed about the mod budget. Shit just isn't looking good. I'm back in the red after purchasing the winter tires and rear brakes, will be further in the red after a battery, new licence plate bulb, bolts for the subframe and red paint for the calipers, then by the time I'm back in the black I'll have to be saving for summer tires again.
And all I really want are LED bulbs for the F+R turn signals.
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Other recent developments: had to call my wife for a jump the other day after leaving the car off with accessory and radio on. It's a 5yr old battery, whatever. Also my rear brakes started dragging metal, so I'm installing the cryo blank rears with new pads this afternoon.
Last, I crawled under the car for my oil change and saw this. No wonder I hear clunks over uneven roads.
Other than that, I'm still bummed about the mod budget. Shit just isn't looking good. I'm back in the red after purchasing the winter tires and rear brakes, will be further in the red after a battery, new licence plate bulb, bolts for the subframe and red paint for the calipers, then by the time I'm back in the black I'll have to be saving for summer tires again.
And all I really want are LED bulbs for the F+R turn signals.
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XGC75
Go Kart Champion
This weekend turned to shit when I fucked up a routine spark plug and oil change. I dropped BKR8EIX size 5044 down the cylinder head before I realized they didn't fit. The 5044s have a 13/16" hex pattern instead of the 5/8ths of the 2668 that you're supposed to have in this car. Then when I went in to extract them, as is the nature of those spark plug sockets with the rubber grommets in them, I had to press on the plugs just as much as I was able to pull on them. Keep in mind that, since I'm doing an oil change at the same time, the engine is really hot.
So I ran out to the hardware store to get some long pliers but in the meantime the engine cooled and contracted around the plugs. What a mess. I tried twisting them out with the spark plug socket. I tried pulling them out with the pliers. I tried getting a better grab on them with the spark plug socket and hot glue, super glue, rubber adhesive, JB Weld ; but nothing, not even the JB Weld could grab more than 80 in-lbs before it gave.
So I go to a buddy's house to try and mill down a 13/16" deep well socket so that I could get between the cylinder walls and the socket hex. Spent 2 hours meticulously taking 2 thousanths of an inch radius at a time, but ultimately it still broke. It would never have had enough strength to torque the plugs out anyhow.
As a last ditch effort before footing the $2000 dealership bill to have them remove the plugs, I found the smallest socket I could fit over the body of the plug, filled it up with enough JB Weld to double its weight, then left it overnight to dry (this was day 4, by the way).
It worked. I had to twist ~200 in-lbs of torque while lifting up on the socket to get the plug out. Spent another 4 hours getting metal fucking shards out of the cylinder. First, a shop vac that did nothing, then a magnet, then a magnet with aluminum tape upside down on the tip (aluminum so that I could form it around the tip of the magnet and it wouldn't fall off), then finally the outlet of the vacuum to blow shit around in the cylinder and I could pick up any other pieces I could reach with the magnet.
Alas! It drives. It makes great power with the new (correct) plugs. Tomorrow I have a dealership appointment to get the front end patched back together (extract the front seat bar bracket bolt mentioned in the last post and add the missing tyrolsport collar), get a toe alignment and maybe add APRs NLS feature. Not sure on that one yet.
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So I ran out to the hardware store to get some long pliers but in the meantime the engine cooled and contracted around the plugs. What a mess. I tried twisting them out with the spark plug socket. I tried pulling them out with the pliers. I tried getting a better grab on them with the spark plug socket and hot glue, super glue, rubber adhesive, JB Weld ; but nothing, not even the JB Weld could grab more than 80 in-lbs before it gave.
So I go to a buddy's house to try and mill down a 13/16" deep well socket so that I could get between the cylinder walls and the socket hex. Spent 2 hours meticulously taking 2 thousanths of an inch radius at a time, but ultimately it still broke. It would never have had enough strength to torque the plugs out anyhow.
As a last ditch effort before footing the $2000 dealership bill to have them remove the plugs, I found the smallest socket I could fit over the body of the plug, filled it up with enough JB Weld to double its weight, then left it overnight to dry (this was day 4, by the way).
It worked. I had to twist ~200 in-lbs of torque while lifting up on the socket to get the plug out. Spent another 4 hours getting metal fucking shards out of the cylinder. First, a shop vac that did nothing, then a magnet, then a magnet with aluminum tape upside down on the tip (aluminum so that I could form it around the tip of the magnet and it wouldn't fall off), then finally the outlet of the vacuum to blow shit around in the cylinder and I could pick up any other pieces I could reach with the magnet.
Alas! It drives. It makes great power with the new (correct) plugs. Tomorrow I have a dealership appointment to get the front end patched back together (extract the front seat bar bracket bolt mentioned in the last post and add the missing tyrolsport collar), get a toe alignment and maybe add APRs NLS feature. Not sure on that one yet.
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