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Can I replace my own brakes?

T

TiCoyote

Ready to race!
I need new brakes and rotors. I've gotten quotes in the $800-$1000 range. It looks like I can buy pads and rotors for around $300 though. A friend replaced his on his RAV4, and offered to help. Other friends have warned me that too many things can go wrong.

Is this the sort of job that I need specialized tools for? Are there precision adjustments I would need to make? Is it easy to screw up and injure myself or damage the car?
 
smanierre

smanierre

Autocross Champion
TiCoyote said:
I need new brakes and rotors. I've gotten quotes in the $800-$1000 range. It looks like I can buy pads and rotors for around $300 though. A friend replaced his on his RAV4, and offered to help. Other friends have warned me that too many things can go wrong.



Is this the sort of job that I need specialized tools for? Are there precision adjustments I would need to make? Is it easy to screw up and injure myself or damage the car?
Click to expand...
Rears need a special tool to twist the Piston as you push it back. Besides that, should be pretty straight forwards, just watch out for stripping the caliper retaining screw.

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smanierre

smanierre

Autocross Champion
TiCoyote said:
Can I use a C-clamp to do that?
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For fronts yes, rears you can try but I think it would be best to get the tool. I think some auto stores rent it out or you could get a cheap one from Amazon I bet

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PhthaloType

PhthaloType

Go Kart Champion
Also, you don't necessarily have to buy new rotors. As long as they're still within spec you can get them resurfaced at many parts stores for about $15 each.
 
aj_law

aj_law

Go Kart Champion
I replaced all my rotors and pads for the first time on this car.

Was pretty straightforward and easy. Even replaced a wheel bearing while I was in there. Not to mention that there are several instructional videos online that walk you through the process.

For the piston tool, you can rent one at autozone or advance for free. You pay $50 to $60 bucks to take it, then they refund it back when you return it.

There are some special socket bits that you'll need to have on hand too. You can usually purchase those at certain auto parts stores. Most of the instructional videos will give you a tool list. Just follow it.

If you're doing rotors and pads, don't forget to bed the brakes after you're done.
 
A

Allchokedup

Autocross Champion
Only issue I have ran into is trying to get the axle bolt broke. I tried everything in my garage, broke 2 cheater bars and 300ftlb impact wouldn't budge it..
 
W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
It's very easy. You can rent (for free) the tool tk compress the caliper pistons from your local Auto parts store. For the bolts and hub where the rotor mounts use PB Blaster (or wd 40). And let it soak for a 15 mintes or so. It actually makes a world of difference. There are no special adjustments. It really is pretty straightforward.
 
W

Wascally Wabbit1

Drag Racing Champion
It's very easy. You can rent (for free) the tool tk compress the caliper pistons from your local Auto parts store. For the bolts and hub where the rotor mounts use PB Blaster (kr wd 40). And let it soak for a 15 mintes or so. It actually makes a workd of difference. There are no special adjustments. It really is pretty straightforward.
 
PhthaloType

PhthaloType

Go Kart Champion
Allchokedup said:
Only issue I have ran into is trying to get the axle bolt broke. I tried everything in my garage, broke 2 cheater bars and 300ftlb impact wouldn't budge it..
Click to expand...


Why did you have to remove the axle bolt to replace the brakes?
 
A

Allchokedup

Autocross Champion
Sorry, let me clarify. I was considering upgrading the front disk and will do it eventually. When I put in ko4 I couldnt get the axle off and out of the way and had to pull turbo out of the top. I then thought to myself how the hell am I going to change the rotor!
Also, not positive but pretty sure the 12 point bolt has to be removed to get the rotors off. Correct me if I'm wrong,and I thought he was asking about pads and rotors.
As for the back pads, the rental kit will come with multiple fittings. Choose the correct one..other than that no problems!
 
A

Allchokedup

Autocross Champion
One other would of advice, dont touch the brake pedal while calipers are off..
Oh and dont let the caliper hang down from the line. I usually use zip ties or a coat hanger and hook them to the springs
 
zrickety

zrickety

The Fixer
Lol you don't remove the axle bolt for the rotor. There is a small torx screw that should be pretty easy. Once the caliper is off, the rotor will slide right off. Hardest part of the job is getting the rear caliper mounting bolts, but it's doable. I have the ecs geomet drilled/slotted rotors and they've held up great. Would also recommend the tyrolsport solid bushings for the front. Do the job yourself and save a ton.
 
A

Allchokedup

Autocross Champion
zrickety said:
Lol you don't remove the axle bolt for the rotor. There is a small torx screw that should be pretty easy. Once the caliper is off, the rotor will slide right off. Hardest part of the job is getting the rear caliper mounting bolts, but it's doable. I have the ecs geomet drilled/slotted rotors and they've held up great. Would also recommend the tyrolsport solid bushings for the front. Do the job yourself and save a ton.
Click to expand...

Thinking about it I haven't ever had to take an axle nut/ bolt to change rotors! Usually 2 Phillip's screws or an allen key. Dang, dont know what I was thinking! Thanks for the tip!
 
MrFancypants

MrFancypants

Autocross Champion
If you do your rotors be sure to have a 3' breaker bar handy as the caliper carrier bolts on both the front and rear are on very tight. With a breaker bar they pop loose pretty easily. For the fronts if you have access to an impact wrench it's even easier, but getting an impact to to the rear bolts is a lot more difficult.
 
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