Jared32
Ready to race!
How often do you have to refill wm? Is it practical for driving long distance?
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6
master water/meth discussion thread
- Thread starter dubbinit2
- Start date
How often do you have to refill wm? Is it practical for driving long distance?
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Usually its boost related injection, so unless your in boost constantly you don't eat it up. I use my windshield washer bottle and that lasts roughly 1 month.
How early in boost, pressure of system, nozzle size and nozzle count also can play into the equation.
A good example I drove LA to Las Vegas and back. I brought extra W/M with me and didn't end up needing any of it for trip.
Its quite practical. I guess you get used to your consumption rates and compensate for longer travels that or if your tune doesn't require it you can just shut the system off.
As already mentioned there are huge variables in terms of consumption. I have a race file tune, a K04 turbo and at the track I can go through the full washer tank in one 15 min session. Driving on the street I only use w/m when I go over 7psi so I could go weeks on a tank if I drive conservative.
I have the ability to switch between 91octane and 100octane tunes. I also put in a simple on/off switch. If I want to go for a multi day long road trip I load the 91octane tune and shut off w/m.
Where did you install your nozzles? One in the throttle body spacer I assume. Where is the second one? If it is on the cold side of the intercooler (side leading up to throttle body) have you had any issue with spraying meth in the direction of the MAP sensor? I think your GTI has a pretty similar layout to mine, but could be wrong.
Hoosier Daddy1
Ready to race!
Gentlemen,
Require some assistance. Anylon of you guys on K04 who run a dual nozzle setup without a TB Spacer IE. 2 nozzles in the throttle body pipe?
Did you see any tangible gains? I would like it for the same effect a TB Spacer gives with added octane and better distribution.
The car is not pulling timing or the sort but I'm running around 1.6 bar currently which will be upped to around 1.8 spike and I'm sure it will help the hold.
Car makes around 350 whp.
Regards
Require some assistance. Anylon of you guys on K04 who run a dual nozzle setup without a TB Spacer IE. 2 nozzles in the throttle body pipe?
Did you see any tangible gains? I would like it for the same effect a TB Spacer gives with added octane and better distribution.
The car is not pulling timing or the sort but I'm running around 1.6 bar currently which will be upped to around 1.8 spike and I'm sure it will help the hold.
Car makes around 350 whp.
Regards
Cold side exit pipe of intercooler and no problems with MAP after 2 years of running with dual nozzle setup.
Hoosier Daddy1
Ready to race!
Hi guys,
Alright really need some help here. I want to go one further and place a nozzle in the intake pipe of the turbo a D01 as at altitudes it's proven to work quite nicely in the upper RPM.
Thing is, do I T off the D02 or D07 or just pull the trigger on a distribution block? As I was told the nozzle in the intake might just siphon out all the liquid.
I'd really appreciate the advice.
Other than neatness and limiting the number of push to connects not sure I can think of any technical reason not to just T off.
Let us know how it goes. How do you plan to control that nozzle?
Hoosier Daddy1
Ready to race!
Normal check valve for the pre-turbo nozzle.
Solenoid before the lines start to tee-off. I'll keep you guys updated.
HYDE161
Go Kart Champion
Need a bit of advice here guys...
I've been toying with the idea of removing and selling my Aquamist HFS-4 system. With my Torqbyte CM5-LT and PM3 about to go in, I now have four PWM outputs, two for my twin spray Bosch port injectors and two for other pumps (in this case the one Aquamist pump at 165psi). If I remove the HFS-4 controller, wiring harness and flow gauge, I will lose the visual flow sensor or level sensor. Can anyone recommend any other flow sensor options or gauges to install?
I've been toying with the idea of removing and selling my Aquamist HFS-4 system. With my Torqbyte CM5-LT and PM3 about to go in, I now have four PWM outputs, two for my twin spray Bosch port injectors and two for other pumps (in this case the one Aquamist pump at 165psi). If I remove the HFS-4 controller, wiring harness and flow gauge, I will lose the visual flow sensor or level sensor. Can anyone recommend any other flow sensor options or gauges to install?
I could be wrong because I have never used a pre turbo nozzle but most of the information and setups indicate it is used /controlled separately so it can come on at a higher boost level than the post turbo nozzles. Some controllers can manage a subsystem (basically open a solenoid at a pre specified boost level)and for those that can't there are things like boost Trigga. LINK
HYDE161
Go Kart Champion
I ran a pre-turbo .4mm jet that was controlled separately by a double apex water meth console button I asked them to create. Press the button, it opened a cooling mist solenoid, the pre-turbo jet was progressive but fell in line with the delivery pattern of the other jets. This time around I will re-use this DA button to control a pre-intercooler jet but delayed by a boost switch like GIAC posted or this one for less: https://www.maperformance.com/produ...m_medium=cse&gclid=CMnr37vzzdACFZBWDQodZ9gJPw
I'd keep it. You'll also lose the failsafe by removing the Aquamist kit won't you? I like to actually know my kit is working, along with the low level lights and failsafes and stuff. Just my opinion.
HYDE161
Go Kart Champion
Thanks for looking out Nick. I wrestled with this decision for a while, but after having electrical issues for the past few years (randomly blown multiple 3 bar and 2.5bar MAP sensors, one N75, one bank 1 02 sensor) I’m left with the Aquamist connections to the ECU wiring harness and/or the second, newer ECU only flashed with an APR K04 file and more recently the Eurodyne BT file. There’s nothing else I can think of that could fry MAP sensors other than the wiring job we did years ago to install Aquamist.
Last night I disconnected the Aquamist wiring harness connections and power and I’ll install a new MAP sensor since the only code remaining before starting the engine is a boost sensor signal too low code. I think this means that it’s bad but we had a MAP sensor go bad when it was in the shop before I picked it up. I have a feeling it has to do with the Aquamist wiring or ECU as they did take the ECU out which could have shifted some wires around or shorted something if the Aquamist connections were not secure. With this troubleshooting, I’ll be removing the dash and glove box to remove the remaining Aquamist wiring and gauge which will then allow me access to the passenger side firewall to feed the Torqbyte wiring through easier.
In terms of water meth, I decided to try simplifying the fuel control and have the two Bosch twin spray port injectors and Aquamist water meth pump controlled by my Torqbyte CM5-LT unit (up to 4 PWM outputs). I’ll be re-using the Aquamist FAV to maintain a constant pump pressure but will lose the Aquamist flow sensor and level sensor in the gauge. I never let me meth tank run low as I have the Aquamist 5qt twin tank in the trunk so the level light on the Aquamist gauge is not a major loss. As for the failsaife, the Aquamist system was tied into the N75 but would not do anything since I’m using the Greddy Profec boost controller. The flow sensor or visual flow gauge is a loss but I’ve been looking at the AEM H20 flow gauge (shows up to 1,000cc/min) or the AEM failsafe H20 flow gauge thanks to Eric. If I go with the failsafe version I’ll figure out how to tie it into the Greddy wiring to dump boost but to be honest, with the two Bosch twin spray port injectors I should have more than enough fuel volume needed for the EFR 7163 turbo. At that point methanol would strictly be a conditioning agent for octane and cooling and the failsafe would be irrelevant.
I know this is a short response to a long answer, but I have like 2 minutes to spare.
You can't check/test the wiring to be sure something isn't up? I just find it hard to believe out of the bunch of us with Aquamist I haven't heard of anyone running through sensors because of it except for you. Like I said through texts, all of mine are 119k mile old OEM sensors and I haven't had an issue.
As for
The failsafe, all you do is cut one wire to the solenoid for your boost controller and wire the Aquamist or whatever else you're going to be using in. Takes all of ten minutes.
And I think with your injectors you will have more than enough fuel. My concern would be, unless you plan to run e85 all the time, 93 octane by itself won't be enough to suppress knock for the timing you'll have to run to hit the numbers you want. So in the case of being on 93, the meth will be critical to not knock.
And the flow switch can easily be hooked up to an LED so you still have a low level indicator up front.
I'll expand more later [emoji1303]
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You can't check/test the wiring to be sure something isn't up? I just find it hard to believe out of the bunch of us with Aquamist I haven't heard of anyone running through sensors because of it except for you. Like I said through texts, all of mine are 119k mile old OEM sensors and I haven't had an issue.
As for
The failsafe, all you do is cut one wire to the solenoid for your boost controller and wire the Aquamist or whatever else you're going to be using in. Takes all of ten minutes.
And I think with your injectors you will have more than enough fuel. My concern would be, unless you plan to run e85 all the time, 93 octane by itself won't be enough to suppress knock for the timing you'll have to run to hit the numbers you want. So in the case of being on 93, the meth will be critical to not knock.
And the flow switch can easily be hooked up to an LED so you still have a low level indicator up front.
I'll expand more later [emoji1303]
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