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TimNeedsCoffee10's Build Thread -

A_Bowers

Moderator
So the more I read - I'm getting concerned that Bilstein will be too rough for DD... looks like the Koni Yellows are going to be a good upgrade and retain more ride comfort. Leaning towards those at the moment. The Bilsteins are very well reviewed and seem to be generally considered "better" - but better performance is harsher ride quality :).

So I'm thinking: Koni Yellow, TT Strut Mounts, and SPM Springs (already ordered). If I need better handling/cornering after that, I'll start thinking sway bars.


You cant go wrong with either damper. Im just not a fan of tweaking stuff constantly....but thats me.

The TT strut mounts.....you might want to look into the 034 motorsports ones, as they are a harder durometer.

I think there is a group buy going on right now.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
You cant go wrong with either damper. Im just not a fan of tweaking stuff constantly....but thats me.

The TT strut mounts.....you might want to look into the 034 motorsports ones, as they are a harder durometer.

I think there is a group buy going on right now.

Group buy just ended :-\. But shipping on them to my house is another $25, which kind of sucks. Leaning towards TT because I can just pick them up at the dealership. That, and I was talked out of the 034's by someone who's opinion I trust...

For the Koni's - is there "constant adjustment" to be done? I know they're adjustable damping, but that doesn't mean I have to keep fidgeting with it, does it?
 

A_Bowers

Moderator
Group buy just ended :-\. But shipping on them to my house is another $25, which kind of sucks. Leaning towards TT because I can just pick them up at the dealership. That, and I was talked out of the 034's by someone who's opinion I trust...

For the Koni's - is there "constant adjustment" to be done? I know they're adjustable damping, but that doesn't mean I have to keep fidgeting with it, does it?


Well shoot...im 0 for 2 so far on recommendations :(

You shouldnt have to continue to adjust them....knowing myself i would keep fidgeting with them just because they are adjustable....



BUT thats me.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Well shoot...im 0 for 2 so far on recommendations :(

You shouldnt have to continue to adjust them....knowing myself i would keep fidgeting with them just because they are adjustable....



BUT thats me.

Heh -- The bilsteins and 034 combo were my initial direction too, so don't feel bad :). I'm just looking to retain as much DD comfort as I can at this point :).

With the Koni's, the fronts are adjustable easily, but the rears have to come out to change their settings... so for me, it's going to be a one-and-done install (unless I get it wrong, haha)
 

A_Bowers

Moderator
Heh -- The bilsteins and 034 combo were my initial direction too, so don't feel bad :). I'm just looking to retain as much DD comfort as I can at this point :).

With the Koni's, the fronts are adjustable easily, but the rears have to come out to change their settings... so for me, it's going to be a one-and-done install (unless I get it wrong, haha)



One thing i have been noticing so much more recently is the need for sways on this car. Springs have helped quite a bit with the dampers, but in higher speed sweepers, the car rolls way too much....It needs to be more flat for sure.

SPM bars are going on next. Grambles noted that his APR sways felt like they were overpowering the OEM dampers, and rightly so, as they were quite a bit larger.

The SPM ones are a smaller solid design....so it will be interesting to see how they stack up. And then the XB should provide a nice upgrade as well.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Stopped to do some data logging on my way to the office this morning... good news is my gremlin is not reappearing just yet. Interesting plot of the specified vs actual boost, with N75 duty cycle, though:

Boost_N75.jpg

So starting off at about 1500 RPMs, I went WOT in 3rd. You can see the engine begins to call for boost (red line), and the turbo spools up and delivers (blue line). The N75 Duty Cycle dropped to about 50% mid-run, which is about when my clutch slipped, and then I hit 7500 RPMs and the fuel cut out at about the 11.57 mark.

The actual-boost spike at fuel cut-off when the N75 dumps concerns me a little, but it's not too big a deal, as I will almost never red-line like that... I also notice that I am ALWAYS over the specified boost, particularly at idle (specified was 380, actual was 1000 mbar)

The other thing I noticed was my peak specified and actual boost are 2400 mbar and 2550 mbar respectively. Unless google is lying to me, that's 36 PSI! I was expecting to see in the realm of 24-25 PSI? And that was held for a little bit there, too.
 
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timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
So I actually just bit the bullet on KONI FSDs to pair with my DriveSPM springs. I think it's a small chance I'm taking -- but after days of scouring the forums, and reading all the good and bad - I think the FSDs will offer exactly the comfort and handling I want. I'll admit I'm a bit concerned about the "bounce" - but for the price I got at redline, it's worth the risk of having to move to Yellows later and put the FSDs up for sale if I'm unhappy.

All the reviews from DG+FSD owners seems over all positive. I hope for similar results on the SPM springs.

RedLine Motorworks has them on sale right now for $585 with no sales tax for NY, and free shipping -- it was only $35 more than the yellow sports... definitely worth it for smoother ride for me, and still better handling than stock.

Just have to pick up the install hardware and strut mounts, and I'll be good to go!
 
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timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Quick wash, clay, and wax this afternoon ... I want to hit her with a few rounds of polish, but won't have the time for another couple weeks.

CIMG2262.JPG
CIMG2265.JPG

Now that I've got springs and struts on their way, I'm really starting to mind that wheel gap. It never bothered me, but now that I know it's going away soon - it bothers the crap out of me, haha.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Did a bunch of research this morning to pull together a list of all the OEM parts I'll need to pick up before jumping into my suspension project. I'm undertaking three projects, so I broke this list as follows:

  1. "Spring" -- install lowering springs
  2. "Strut" -- install aftermarket strut kit (front and rear)
  3. "Bushing" -- install new front- and rear- position LCA bushings
SuspensionOEMParts.jpg

Notes:
  • "Strut" needs all the parts for "Spring" but not the other way around.
  • This list does not include the upper strut mounts, but does include the bearing.
  • Prices were pulled from KefferVWParts just before posting this.
  • KefferVWParts' online catalog didn't list N10610702, I have to call on Monday for that.

My GTI is basically getting a brand new suspension... as soon as all the parts are here, I'll be installing:
1. Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit
2. Whileline front-position poly bushings
3. KONI FSD Shocks
4. SPM Lowering Springs
5. Audi TT Upper Strut Mounts (8J0-412-331)

Should feel like a brand new car after that! And if I'm still not happy, there's always sway bars. My only concern is wether the SPM springs and FSD shocks will pair well... but I'm prepared to have to put them on the classified and move to KONI Yellows if needed.
 
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timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
My APR boost tap arrives tomorrow, so I spent some time wiring up my NSP red-line column-pod gauge. Pretty happy with how it look, and because I'm fairly tall it only blocks the lower-right corner of the temp gauge in the cluster.
CIMG2270.jpeg

The gauge hose is routed near the PVC line, so when the tap is delivered, I just have to pop it in, connect the hose, and I'm good to go!

Only problem I have is I couldn't figure out how to get the leather trim between the steering column and instrument cluster off to hide the wires, so for now they're tucked in the corner. Not noticeable while driving, but I want to hide them still.
CIMG2268.jpeg

I'm going to pick up some velcro strips to attach the column pod to the steering column so it'll pop on and off easily until I can hide those wires.

If anyone knows the trick, chime in!
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Got my boost tap in today, so I recorded a quick 3rd gear WOT pull to test it out.


Will do better later.

Also swapped my black UB/XB for red ones, and got hung up on my RB install today. Going to have to pull the whole CBE to get it in I'm afraid. Maybe I'm missing something? But I don't have time today to look any more, and I'm traveling for the next 2 weeks - so it'll have to wait.
 

A_Bowers

Moderator
Got my boost tap in today, so I recorded a quick 3rd gear WOT pull to test it out.


Will do better later.

Also swapped my black UB/XB for red ones, and got hung up on my RB install today. Going to have to pull the whole CBE to get it in I'm afraid. Maybe I'm missing something? But I don't have time today to look any more, and I'm traveling for the next 2 weeks - so it'll have to wait.

Geez you get some boost spikes.

Mine never has peaked that high. Lol.
 

timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Driving home from CigarFest 2013 today, accelerating through 3rd into 4th getting on the interstate, and I suddenly felt the turbo dump, went into limp mode, and threw a CEL. Just an over boost code, no misfires.

:/

Wasn't WOT either, and believe I was only pushing 12-15 psi on my gauge at the time. No pigeons, that's for sure.

Can't do any real logging or diagnostics until after my SB/3 next week, and subsequent breakin period - which, given my current travel plans, will be about 2 to 3 weeks.

I'm hoping the over boost is directly related to the clutch slipping. The events are correlated in time, at least. Maybe the new clutch that doesn't let go when the engine doesn't expect it will simply resolve the problem.
 
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timneedscoffee10

Go Kart Champion
Headed out on a business trip today, and leaving my car with Issam at INA Engineering for some work! When I get back, she'll have a South Bend Stage 3 Daily Silent with Single Mass Fly Wheel, new timing chain tensioner, and all new guide rails (upper and lower). There's no reason to do the timing chain guides except that we're in there anyway, the parts are cheap, and only nominal extra labor. With 50k miles on the clock, it's a bit early to be concerned about any wear, but this'll buy me 50k more before I have to think about.

The real winner will be the clutch! I have 560 miles of driving planned for the 2 weeks after I get back, too - so the break in period will be ending before I know it. Then I can get back to K04 fun, do some serious logging, and move on to my suspension.

fun fun!
 
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