Flow, you have a link to this kit for $150, I can't find it, a Rabbit friend needs a good deal.
6
Golf 2.5 Belts Tensioners Pulleys Diagram
- Thread starter MLue1
- Start date
FlowMK6
Ready to race!
Thanks anyway.They don't sell it anymore
We Found a kit at ECS Tuning but it does not include the upper and lower Idler Pulleys, the bearings in those go bad as well.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.5/Engine/Drive_Belts/
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usefulidiot
Go Kart Champion
I’m getting a squealy belt when it’s damp/humid/raining until it warms up. About a 3 on the banshee scale. Will do the whole shootin match this fall. Going to do engine and trans mounts too.
Ben, your the guy everyone wants to buy cars from.
usefulidiot
Go Kart Champion
Haha...it's a win/win...performs for me, and provides a rewarding driving experience.....or....becomes a great value for the next owner.
Wascally Wabbit1
Drag Racing Champion
That could be anything. My guess is a bearing somewhere though. Whirring and chirping sounds like a bearing about to fail.
As WW says it could be anything including the tensioners and pulleys but outside chance chirping at high rpm when you let off, could be the PCV diaphragm or a vacuum leak showing up, coz there is an awful amount of vacuum, enough to collapse weak vacuum lines.
As for whirring, idk ???
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Wascally Wabbit1
Drag Racing Champion
It's funny my first thought when you asked was the stereo. I had a strange whirring sound that I could not figure out at one point and I would turn the stereo all the way down and listen for it and it would be loudest at high rpm. Then I turned the stereo off and I didn't hear it. I thought that was odd. Turned it on heard it again. Turned out to be feedback through the speakers from the motor which was very faint and just came through like a whirring noise. It ended up actually being from a bad cable used to plug my phone in to charge was causing this weird feedback through Bluetooth audio.
Hey Einstein, you just had a million$$$ idea, I bet those manufacturers that use the radio to pipe fake sound to give the impression of performance can now add a track to the sound system to "fake out" the owners to bring their cars in for unnecessary service. :laugh: I can see Audi and BMW owners bringing their cars in for service over a ie. chirping/whirring noise. :laugh: I can see it now, $tealer service hooking/connecting up and charging $$$ to Scan for the problem.... oh $hit they already do this for everything..... :laugh::laugh::laugh: but adding the audio track must be worth something $$$.
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Wascally Wabbit1
Drag Racing Champion
No they don't. :lol:
Back on topic: A while back, I replaced all 2 belts, 2 Tensioners and 2 Idle Pulleys as regular maintenance, cause we were over 200k km (160k miles). All bearings were still smooth but I don't wait for stuff that near end of life to fail, especially now that with SRi we rev past red line quite often.
I wish someone would Post up on which bearings in the pulleys and tensioners actually go bad on the 2.5, so we can add some more substance to this thread.
I've gotten a few IMs asking questions on replacing the belts and tensioners on the 2,5, as well as Tools to have on hand. I was surprised, as there are Youtube videos; BUT apparently the YouTube Videos that out there mostly cover replacing the Belts in like 5 minutes BUT not much on replacing the 2 belt tensioners. The YouTube videos make it look easy, especially if you are only replacing the belts. If you are replacing the 2 Idlers and the 2 pulleys it's not easy and gets involved depending on the tools you have on hand and your mechanical dexterity.
It's been a while since I did this project but I'll jot down what I can remember. I did speak to my Mechanic buddies before starting this job, and they told be the short cuts they use to beat the book time and those tips helped a lot.
The tools used, are a bit out of the ordinary and not everyone will have them in there tool kit. Example WHO has 15 mm wrench, ... I do but it's a rarely used tool, and easy to misplace. You will need a M10 Triple Square bit, I needed to use both a long one as well as a short one from two different kits to get clearance with the rollers inorder to get the tensioners off then to reinstall them. The Torque on the M10 Tripple Square bolts is 40 Nm or about 30-35 ft-lb.
A guy in one of the videos indicated that having the M10 from the Lisle Triple Square Engine Kit is the way to go to get the tensioners off, but I can't confirm or deny.
By the book, you will need both T27 as well as T40 Torx bits to remove the Idler brackets and Idlers from the engine. Being sight challenged and not able to see the 5 Torx bolts very easily I opted to followed my buddies advice and left the old brackets in place and just used a 13 mm wrench to remove the 13 mm Nut to remove the Idler Pulley; then removed the Idler from the new bracket and transfered it to the old bracket and firmly tightened the nut, I used Blue Loc Tite on the nut as well. For the other Idler Pulley, I used a "short" T40 bit to remove the old Idler Pulley; then used a large Vise Grip Pliers to clamp the new Idler Pulley Bracket while breaking the Loc Tited T40 fastner on the new Idler Pulley; then transferred the new parts to the old idler bracket. Once again, I used Blue Loc Tite and firmly tightened the T40 idler fastener (bolt).
Installing the belts can be tricky, I found installing the accessory belt on the left side of the water pump pulley, to the Idler and then to the Compressor pulley and then maintain belt tension on the Left side helps to free up slack on the right side (if that makes sence to ya)to assist in getting the new belt in place around the pulleys and idlers on the right side but that's just me, you may have a better way.
Cheers
It's been a while since I did this project but I'll jot down what I can remember. I did speak to my Mechanic buddies before starting this job, and they told be the short cuts they use to beat the book time and those tips helped a lot.
The tools used, are a bit out of the ordinary and not everyone will have them in there tool kit. Example WHO has 15 mm wrench, ... I do but it's a rarely used tool, and easy to misplace. You will need a M10 Triple Square bit, I needed to use both a long one as well as a short one from two different kits to get clearance with the rollers inorder to get the tensioners off then to reinstall them. The Torque on the M10 Tripple Square bolts is 40 Nm or about 30-35 ft-lb.
A guy in one of the videos indicated that having the M10 from the Lisle Triple Square Engine Kit is the way to go to get the tensioners off, but I can't confirm or deny.
By the book, you will need both T27 as well as T40 Torx bits to remove the Idler brackets and Idlers from the engine. Being sight challenged and not able to see the 5 Torx bolts very easily I opted to followed my buddies advice and left the old brackets in place and just used a 13 mm wrench to remove the 13 mm Nut to remove the Idler Pulley; then removed the Idler from the new bracket and transfered it to the old bracket and firmly tightened the nut, I used Blue Loc Tite on the nut as well. For the other Idler Pulley, I used a "short" T40 bit to remove the old Idler Pulley; then used a large Vise Grip Pliers to clamp the new Idler Pulley Bracket while breaking the Loc Tited T40 fastner on the new Idler Pulley; then transferred the new parts to the old idler bracket. Once again, I used Blue Loc Tite and firmly tightened the T40 idler fastener (bolt).
Installing the belts can be tricky, I found installing the accessory belt on the left side of the water pump pulley, to the Idler and then to the Compressor pulley and then maintain belt tension on the Left side helps to free up slack on the right side (if that makes sence to ya)to assist in getting the new belt in place around the pulleys and idlers on the right side but that's just me, you may have a better way.
Cheers
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