Help with WMI setup

Hey guys. Just to update and ask a few more questions.

1. Supplier it out of nozzles and has stock of D04 nozzles. I have a friend running APRStage2+ tune with all the bells and whistles that is running a D03 and DO4 nozzle on a BSH pipe(AEM system). He has been having excellent results and using this for a while. Im thinking of trying this out on mine. Do you thing that Id be spraying too much ? Would I put the bigger nozzle closer or further away from the TB(1st or 2nd bung)

2. I have minimal timing pull on Stage 1 95Ron(-1.5max) and on Stage 2 95Ron(-3 max) otherwise 80% of the time sits on zero. As soon as I flash Stage 2 + I have stupid timing pulls. As soon as I boost it will spike to -8 but usually its around the -6 to -4 mark, which I guess is not that bad, but could def be closer to the 1.5 to 0 mark. I guess this points to zero hardware issues and more a fuel issue(and to be honest I didnt expect any less living in 3rd world country).

3. With all the logs Ive been doing Im interested to know more or less what RMP do guys hit peak boost at and what do you taper off to with your K04s. I see I hit peak boost between 3000-3200RPM which is 25.3 PSI and I taper down to about 17PSi at 6700RPM. Sounds a bit...laggy, even though I havent noticed it too much except in logs.

4. Forge Actuator. In regards to question 3, am I supposed to hold boot longer or will it only come into affect when I run my race tune? I dont seem to see any benefit on Stage2+ map but its a normal map not tuned for the actuator. Or are there mechanical adjustments to actuator that need to be made?

5. Plug Gap. I tried .026 and car didn't like it at all. I decided to try 2 gaps. The stock gap ,032 and the .028 gap. The .28 Gap feels smooth, but the stock gap seems to be a little more aggresive if I can say that, and feel like theres more pop/bang with the DSG farts. Could it be with the R8 coils the car likes the bigger stock gap? Is there any way to log/test the different gaps that will let me know what gap my car likes more? Or is my butt confused because the car sounds more aggresive with stock gap?

6. GFB DV+. I have one of these installed but I heard a few guys saying sticking to stock DV works best and have removed their GFB. Is there any truth to this. I like my DV and see it as a waste of money to remove if its causing issues. Maybe could run it without the spring so it operates like stock DV?

Sorry for the many questions.

huzidada said:

Thanks for the replies. I am running a Unitronic Stage 2+ 95 Tune but the fuel in my area must be a bit of a bad batch. I was getting minnimum(-2) timing pull before.

I have since upgraded to the CTS intercooler, CTS pulley, CTS discharge pipe, Forge K04 Actuator, RS4 Valve and USP Torque Insert and since then Ive been getting timing pull. Naturally I thought hardware but all types of plugs and gaps etc and nothing worked. Decided to mix some octane booster and chuck it in and my timing pull litrrally dissappered. I still get between -2 and -4 but like just the occasional. Mistly 0s now. Maybe torque insert is giving funny vibrations?.

I was thinking of running a dual nozzle setup as my kit actually came installed with a D01 at the top and a D05 nozzle at the bottom.

I was thinking of running maybe a D04 Nozzle at the top and a D02 nozzle at the bottom.

Or maybe dual D03 nozzles but I know closer to the TB os what gives more octance.

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With the timing issues have you been able to notice benefit from the pulley and discharge pipe?

To be honest, not really hey. And Im sure even if I had perfect timing it wouldnt. The discharge pipe on our cars is already a beefed up one. The pulley, ah who really knows. Wouldnt do it unless I dont want to go big turbo but have done all the other Stage 2 mods

Hello from neighbouring South Africa!

From the bit that I've read, you should be using the BKR8IEX plugs. Move away from the BKR7's. Also, who is your Unitronic Dealer over there? they should be able to sort you out easily. You honestly shouldn't be seeing any timing pull if you're running WMI. If you are it means you're either not running the correct mix of Water / Meth or you're not spraying enough at the right time.

huzidada said:

To be honest, not really hey. And Im sure even if I had perfect timing it wouldnt. The discharge pipe on our cars is already a beefed up one. The pulley, ah who really knows. Wouldnt do it unless I dont want to go big turbo but have done all the other Stage 2 mods

Click to expand...

Yeah... I'm about at that point. I'm not spending $6k to go stage 3 and there really aren't many other mods to do other than the pulley and inlet/outlet pipes. I guess I could do the RFD or even an upgraded intake manifold.

Thanks man and good luck getting everything sorted!

I think you found your answer early on. The 2+ tune runs fine on the fuel it was designed for which is 98 RON. With 98 the issues dissappeared. If you are running 95 RON fuel (98 to hard to get) in your tank you will just need to spray enough water meth to get you to the 98 RON level at those times of your run where the motor needs it. You can see where its needed in your timing logs. Methanol has a RON of 108.7. Start adding more mix by changing nozzle sizes, run timing logs, and repeat as necessary until timing is all zeros.

Note - In addition to nozzle size you have two other forms of adjustment. You can add more alky to the mix and you can move the nozzle or one of them closer to the intake manifold. In your case the ideal location would be a TB spacer. Less distance less evap of the alky, the better for trying to make up the knock suppression between 95 and 98 RON. If you run a second nozzle put it down low or as far away as possible for most evap/cooling since you live in warm climate.

Hey Neo.

DarkArts is my tuner. I guess it comes down to fuel quality. To run Stage2+ I need good fuel hence the timing pull. The problem with the water meth setup us the nozzle size. Note that we use the throttle pipe and not the TB spacer. My current setup has incorrect nozzle size. It had a DO1 closest to TB and a big DO7 nozzle at the bottom. Had no choking or misfires but saw more intake drop than octane enhancement.

As far as Ive read and I know, including asking Unitronic. 7 plugs ar/e ideal. I know APR new tune uses BKR7. Cooler plug not needed as BKR7s show no sign of overheating. What plugs are you using? Gap?

I reckon it must be fuel as I mix my own octane booster(xylene, touluene and meth) and timing pull dissappears. I even have a MAFless file so pulled MAF sensor out and still had pull. I dont have any codes and I boost as I should so I doubt its map sensor.

Maybe my oil is contaminated with age and an oil change will benefit. I doubt carbon could be affecting at 44k KM but we have very crappy fuel.

Oh and my fuel trims are good.

See timing at around 8psi so set controller to 7 psi and maxes out at17psi

https://youtu.be/UAhuhow4WJo

Hehehe Timing pull in Action

huzidada said:

Hey Neo.

DarkArts is my tuner. I guess it comes down to fuel quality. To run Stage2+ I need good fuel hence the timing pull. The problem with the water meth setup us the nozzle size. Note that we use the throttle pipe and not the TB spacer. My current setup has incorrect nozzle size. It had a DO1 closest to TB and a big DO7 nozzle at the bottom. Had no choking or misfires but saw more intake drop than octane enhancement.

Click to expand...

Swap positions of the nozzles. This will give you more emphasis on octane.
Try controller setting of 5 and 15. (this will give you more mix sooner which you clearly need)

What mix are you spraying? I assumed you were using distilled water and straight methanol mixed 50/50 by volume.

If you see good improvement but still have some timing to take care of change your mix to more alky 70/30.

Ideally you would get an assortment of nozzles to play with.

Would have the D07 nozzle closer to TB not be too much? Its does flow 441ml/min. The D01 is 62ml/min.

Im using 50/50 by volume. So if thats not helping I should try a bit of a stronger meth mix? Someone told me that adding more water would help in situations like these as its knock resistant?

So guys, I have not come right. And not with the water meth, Im awaiting an assortment of nozzles that I found cheaper online overseas.

As long as Im not stock or Stage1 95 I have silly timing pull and Im not happy with it. Even with winter setting in and awesomely cool evenings I suffer from it.

Here is my fuel log. Theres a small period when it doesnt meet rail pressure but Im pretty sure its because the RS4 Valve cranking pressure is a bit higher.



And some timing logs.





Also my spark plugs threads seem to get very black. Both the BKR7EIX and PFR7S8EG have been in my car for 500KM each and look like this on the threads.


Pull always seems to be more on number 4.

At 45K KM and maybe crappy fuel you think carbon could be the problem?
What else could cause such hectic timing pull?
I havent changed oil in 8000 KM, and it does seem a bit dirty. Could dirty old oil cause timing pull? Maybe its slowly contaminated with fuel from blow by?

Am at wits end here.

Update- My CTS TB Spacer is finally here!! Sinch the install will be a bit difficult, what size nozzle would be ideal to run in the TB Spacer and what should I run on the lower Throttle pipe? Surely I wouldn't need so much? Or the same as what I would run in the Throttle pipe alone?

Howsit bud, I haven't seen any updates on this thread in a while. Have you managed to make progress? I'm also with DarkArtz over here in Johannesburg. As for the WMI, I was equipped with a single D07 nozzle at the bottom bung of my BSH throttle body pipe. Apparently that's more than enough for cooling and octane boosting?

I need to log my car again. I haven't done it in ages.