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DIY: TSI Valve Cleaning in detail (Get Rid of That Carbon!)

R

redjet1

Passed Driver's Ed
Hmmm... so yesterday I unplugged the wire harness from the N80. It gave me a check engine code p0444 which is about right, however the ticking was still there...

I'm wondering if I needed to unplug the hose instead of just the harness..

At this moment, the ticking is exactly the same as

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiAo7OfeAsQ

Wonder if its the new cyl 4 injector that is defective making the noise... don't see what else could have gone wrong during the cleaning...
 
ToMMyGuN

ToMMyGuN

Go Kart Champion
redjet said:
Hmmm... so yesterday I unplugged the wire harness from the N80. It gave me a check engine code p0444 which is about right, however the ticking was still there...

I'm wondering if I needed to unplug the hose instead of just the harness..

At this moment, the ticking is exactly the same as

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiAo7OfeAsQ

Wonder if its the new cyl 4 injector that is defective making the noise... don't see what else could have gone wrong during the cleaning...
Click to expand...

You need to localize the ticking. Figure out where it is coming from and post back.

Sent via tapatalk
 
R

redjet1

Passed Driver's Ed
ToMMyGuN said:
Did you try the screwdriver stethascope trick? Is it coming from the head or the manifold? Any other performance issues/CEL's?

Sent via tapatalk
Click to expand...

The car drives great other than the cyl 4 misfire I had from the beginning of chipping my car when it had 10k miles. thats the reason why I decided to open the intake manifold to begin with. To change the injector.

I will try to get a long screw driver and try what you say...
 
ToMMyGuN

ToMMyGuN

Go Kart Champion
redjet said:
The car drives great other than the cyl 4 misfire I had from the beginning of chipping my car when it had 10k miles. thats the reason why I decided to open the intake manifold to begin with. To change the injector.

I will try to get a long screw driver and try what you say...
Click to expand...

Wait, you are still getting cyl 4 misfires?
 
C

carsfeverguy

Go Kart Champion
DBESTGTI said:
One major thing missed is covering the opening in the injector while its in the head of your cleaning valves. When carbon debris falls in the hole and clogs up an injector you'll be pissed buying a new one and taking it all back apart again to replace it.
Click to expand...

How do you cover the injector, also with what? Seran wrap, or vinyl with elastics?
 
R

redjet1

Passed Driver's Ed
I got a stethoscope to hear where the ticking is coming from and I could hear it the loudest right under cyl4 where the injector is. Going to tear it apart again tonight and swap the old injector back in and see if it fixes this problem.
 
R

redjet1

Passed Driver's Ed
ToMMyGuN said:
Huh, maybe a faulty injector then huh? Did you use an oem bosch one?
Click to expand...

I got the fix last night! Woohoo!!! what a relief..

I used the original part from the dealer as an injector...

MY problem was just simple stupidness LOL!!! As I opened the intake manifold last night, I figured out that I didn't put on that plastic sleeve thats on the lower side of the injector. The black sleeve that has 3 prongs and clips on the injector. :happyanim::happyanim::happyanim:

Also have a question though.. What are the torque requirements on the bolts that hold the manifold down???
 
ToMMyGuN

ToMMyGuN

Go Kart Champion
redjet said:
I got the fix last night! Woohoo!!! what a relief..

I used the original part from the dealer as an injector...

MY problem was just simple stupidness LOL!!! As I opened the intake manifold last night, I figured out that I didn't put on that plastic sleeve thats on the lower side of the injector. The black sleeve that has 3 prongs and clips on the injector. :happyanim::happyanim::happyanim:

Also have a question though.. What are the torque requirements on the bolts that hold the manifold down???
Click to expand...

Nice. That would definetly cause vibration without the retainer clip in there.

Get the bolts tight, but not uber tight. There isn't a ton of load put into those bolts, so no worries about torque loading them. Remember how tight they were when you took them off? Just get close to that with a 1/4" ratchet and you will be good to go. Make sure you don't pop the head off of one of them, as it will be a very painful process to get the screw body out of the head..
 
R

redjet1

Passed Driver's Ed
Interesting.. car idles a little bit rough until I drive it at least 5 miles and then it idles better once its fully warmed up... Wonder if I needed to change the o rings on all injectors... I never experienced the car idling this rough before it would reach hot temperatures... hmmmm
 
ToMMyGuN

ToMMyGuN

Go Kart Champion
redjet said:
Interesting.. car idles a little bit rough until I drive it at least 5 miles and then it idles better once its fully warmed up... Wonder if I needed to change the o rings on all injectors... I never experienced the car idling this rough before it would reach hot temperatures... hmmmm
Click to expand...

Any misfire codes?

Sent via tapatalk
 
R

redjet1

Passed Driver's Ed
ToMMyGuN said:
Any misfire codes?

Sent via tapatalk
Click to expand...

No misfires, car drives great... just randomly idles a little rough... like today, on one stop light it was idling rough and then the next light it would idle to the point where I can't even feel the engine running.. back and forth LOL.. wondering if its the DSG that I got to reset after the battery disconnect... oh and with the AC, it idles a lot worse...

Interesting because the valves are all carbon free clean, 1 new injector and all else is the same as before... I used to brag to my buddies how my idle was sooo smooth before I did all this injector swap thing... oh well..
 
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