grambles423
Automotive Engineer
I don't think so. I think you unplug it if youre having driveability issues in stock mode
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APR K04 TSI DIY Install
- Thread starter grambles423
- Start date
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plac
Guest
as you are putting the new turbo back on the car. do you first place the intake manifold gasket, or do you set the intake into the V slots, then slide the gasket in?
grambles423
Automotive Engineer
Place the gasket on the block studs THEN place the turbo into the V-Blocks. Much easier that way. The turbo wont really move once its in the blocks. Its really nice and just slides in like a virgin.
Bender1
Banned
So you really need to kinda cram it in there and hit it with a rubber mallet a few times?
andy_uranium
Go Kart Champion
Haha, terrible visual.
grambles423
Automotive Engineer
its a tight fit, but it goes in well!
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plac
Guest
another task im worried about, removing my stock rear intake pipe. so many people break that clip trying to get it off the tube. Maybe i should just do that part now, to know if its gonna break or not. then i can just have a new tube here by the install time if needed. and if it doesnt break, it will be loose and ready for the work.
and the other final question for the whole DIY. when tightening your 13mm nuts on the exhaust manifold. Do you have room for your torque wrench sitting upwards to top? Maybe a 1" or 3" extension on that thing?
and the other final question for the whole DIY. when tightening your 13mm nuts on the exhaust manifold. Do you have room for your torque wrench sitting upwards to top? Maybe a 1" or 3" extension on that thing?
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grambles423
Automotive Engineer
My tabs were already broken and I installed a new one during the install. Might not hurt to try...but that damn thing is so flexible, its bound to break.
I had a 3" extension with the torque wrench angled up. However, I also had the rain tray out and the sheet metal part that runs across that void out, gave me lots of room. Might consider that when you're installing.
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plac
Guest
jesus... one of those red plugged fittings is under the wastegate rod, under the manifold... looks like it will be a real beast to get to and work with.
anything i can do in prep days before?
swap that one coolant plug?
install the 4 downpipe studs?
and i have that ONE thick copper washer. i think it said it goes on the coolant fitting, between the turbo and banjo metal, then a normal thin one on the other side of that banjo fitting..
only got 1 tiny piece of paper instructions with it. wouldnt be even possible to do with just those instructions for me.
anything i can do in prep days before?
swap that one coolant plug?
install the 4 downpipe studs?
and i have that ONE thick copper washer. i think it said it goes on the coolant fitting, between the turbo and banjo metal, then a normal thin one on the other side of that banjo fitting..
only got 1 tiny piece of paper instructions with it. wouldnt be even possible to do with just those instructions for me.
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grambles423
Automotive Engineer
Its not hard to reach if you swap the plugs to the correct location as mentioned by the APR instructions. Both plugs should be on the bottom I believe.
I did the following:
- Coolant Plugs
- Downpipe Studs
- REV D DV
- Triple checked all my tools
- Got under my car and peeked around to really know what I was going to do.
Yes, Imagine the turbo on the vehicle. The thick washer will go on the firewall side of the turbocharger in the upper coolant hole (I'll need to confirm that again) NOT THE ENGINE BLOCK SIDE!!!! I made this mistake and had to take it back out.
I'll double check my instruction manual and give you any resources I can. I had to call APR and talk to Doug a few times to ensure the plug placement, but I got it all straightened out
Yeah....its not helpful at ALL!
dave80
Go Kart Champion
Plac it's not that hard to install the ko4. First make sure you have some distilled water and g12, new oil, oil filter. Just take your time, and prep yourself with install steps you can follow. Start with the dp removal and then get the damn heat shield plug/bolts off from underneath the car which worked for me. You don't need to take the battery out, make sure you remove the coolant return at the Turbo first and let the coolant drain before you undo anything on the top (it will save you the messy clean up, i lost about half of a gallon of coolant). Then you can work slowly on everything else.
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plac
Guest
i just gotta study the path of all the fluids. its real confusing to look at in person. there are holes everywhere.
and... if APR always needs people to swap that plug to the other hole.. why don't they just ship them like that?
think a cleaner coolant technique would be to find a plug or something on the radiator, and drain a bit? i was hoping to have some cool method with a big mouth funnel and somehow catch all the coolant as it spills out.
grambles423
Automotive Engineer
Drain the coolant. That'll be the only way to prevent it from leaking out. However, this introduces air into the system.
APR probably doesnt ship the plugs oriented like that out of ease of packaging and turn around. Its definitely something they can take 10minutes to do...I'm sure they have a good reason why. I've inquired about it and never really got an answer.
APR probably doesnt ship the plugs oriented like that out of ease of packaging and turn around. Its definitely something they can take 10minutes to do...I'm sure they have a good reason why. I've inquired about it and never really got an answer.