Hi Guys
Have pretty much completely exhausted all the checks I can do with this but I’ve had a disengage parking brake message, chime, and warning light up on my 2011 GTI for about 4 months now and can’t seem to figure out what’s causing it. I have replaced the parking brake switch checked the wires for ground and switch for open when depressed and closed when released. Getting 0.5V to the brown yellow wire going to it. I checked all fuses under the hood and driver’s side panel. Moved a few 10A ones around just to make sure #2 was good. I have a high line CECM from factory and VW LED taillights. One light was cracked and getting water in it for a while when this parking brake issue started? I replaced the taillights with depo ones. I also get a warning for front side lights out which showed up a couple months before the parking brake warning My front marker lights are led but I never had a bulb warning light before 6 months ago and those have been in for the last few years. I have tried disconnecting the brake fluid reservoir switch and parking brake switch, both should be normally open so this should eliminate any problems with them. I took my car in to an Indy shop here in Queens NY to get a scan (as I don’t have VCDS) and see if they could tell what faults I have and there assessment was that I must have a short somewhere. So last night I completely dismantled the interior and traced the brown/yellow wire all the way from the parking brake up to the instrument cluster no rubs or grounding? Screw it I snipped the wire at the gauge cluster and taped it up thinking this should eliminate any ground on that circuit.... Still dinging at me :mad0259: whenever I’m driving above 5 mph..... I also sometimes get the oil warning light on the display when the ignition is on but car is not running.
So my question is did the water in the twilight fry something in my CECM? Is there a relay that’s failing? Any ideas?
I know I should have my own VCDS scan cord but only use Macs and my el cheapo Bluetooth dongle works good enough for reading most faults.
Have pretty much completely exhausted all the checks I can do with this but I’ve had a disengage parking brake message, chime, and warning light up on my 2011 GTI for about 4 months now and can’t seem to figure out what’s causing it. I have replaced the parking brake switch checked the wires for ground and switch for open when depressed and closed when released. Getting 0.5V to the brown yellow wire going to it. I checked all fuses under the hood and driver’s side panel. Moved a few 10A ones around just to make sure #2 was good. I have a high line CECM from factory and VW LED taillights. One light was cracked and getting water in it for a while when this parking brake issue started? I replaced the taillights with depo ones. I also get a warning for front side lights out which showed up a couple months before the parking brake warning My front marker lights are led but I never had a bulb warning light before 6 months ago and those have been in for the last few years. I have tried disconnecting the brake fluid reservoir switch and parking brake switch, both should be normally open so this should eliminate any problems with them. I took my car in to an Indy shop here in Queens NY to get a scan (as I don’t have VCDS) and see if they could tell what faults I have and there assessment was that I must have a short somewhere. So last night I completely dismantled the interior and traced the brown/yellow wire all the way from the parking brake up to the instrument cluster no rubs or grounding? Screw it I snipped the wire at the gauge cluster and taped it up thinking this should eliminate any ground on that circuit.... Still dinging at me :mad0259: whenever I’m driving above 5 mph..... I also sometimes get the oil warning light on the display when the ignition is on but car is not running.
So my question is did the water in the twilight fry something in my CECM? Is there a relay that’s failing? Any ideas?
I know I should have my own VCDS scan cord but only use Macs and my el cheapo Bluetooth dongle works good enough for reading most faults.
