Solved: Pressure under oil cap, Oil consumption/loss, idle surge
I've recently been experiencing symptoms which would indicate a failed PCV valve, however, I recently installed the ECS Catch Can system, and shortly after that a brand new genuine PCV valve since this system still relies on the PCV to function. Since installing these, one of the issues I was having went away. Before the install, my car would rev in neutral before settling back to 800 RPM. Now it stays fairly stable at 750 RPM with no self-revving. However, I still have pressure behind the oil cap and my catch can fills up ever 400-500 miles driven. This is causing a drop in oil level, to the point where it barely registering on the dip stick after only 1500-2000 miles since my last oil change. Is this normal behavior or does anyone have any thoughts on what might be going on?
Solved!
Part 1 - Crankcase pressure & oil loss
After some research, I've come to the conclusion that the easiest solution for this issue is to reinstall the hose connection from the PCV valve to the intake rather than leave it blocked off. As far as I can tell, this is specific to the ECS catch can system but I'm not completely sure. After doing this, the can stopped catching 98% of what is caught before, however, the can is still functional under boost which is when it's needed the most. During N/A or idle, the pressure is vented to the intake. The only con to this setup is that the PCV valve is once again susceptible to failing.
Part 2 - Idle surge / self revving in neutral
This issue was resolved by cutting up my Injen intake and reinstalling the stock MAF housing in its original location using two 3" silicone couplers. I chose to leave the housing facing up for easy access. I purchased a used MAF in housing so I'm not sure whether my MAF was just going bad or if the maf wasn't seating correctly on the Injen intake or if the intake was causing the issue, but it's gone away and I've noticed the car runs better now.
Edit: Tip: It's important when trying to diagnose these issues that you perform a throttle body adjustment each time you change something. I did this through my APR tune. The ECU will try to compensate for any abnormalities over time, so even if you manage to correct the issue the car may still act off at first. It's best to reset and then access.
I've recently been experiencing symptoms which would indicate a failed PCV valve, however, I recently installed the ECS Catch Can system, and shortly after that a brand new genuine PCV valve since this system still relies on the PCV to function. Since installing these, one of the issues I was having went away. Before the install, my car would rev in neutral before settling back to 800 RPM. Now it stays fairly stable at 750 RPM with no self-revving. However, I still have pressure behind the oil cap and my catch can fills up ever 400-500 miles driven. This is causing a drop in oil level, to the point where it barely registering on the dip stick after only 1500-2000 miles since my last oil change. Is this normal behavior or does anyone have any thoughts on what might be going on?
Solved!
Part 1 - Crankcase pressure & oil loss
After some research, I've come to the conclusion that the easiest solution for this issue is to reinstall the hose connection from the PCV valve to the intake rather than leave it blocked off. As far as I can tell, this is specific to the ECS catch can system but I'm not completely sure. After doing this, the can stopped catching 98% of what is caught before, however, the can is still functional under boost which is when it's needed the most. During N/A or idle, the pressure is vented to the intake. The only con to this setup is that the PCV valve is once again susceptible to failing.
Part 2 - Idle surge / self revving in neutral
This issue was resolved by cutting up my Injen intake and reinstalling the stock MAF housing in its original location using two 3" silicone couplers. I chose to leave the housing facing up for easy access. I purchased a used MAF in housing so I'm not sure whether my MAF was just going bad or if the maf wasn't seating correctly on the Injen intake or if the intake was causing the issue, but it's gone away and I've noticed the car runs better now.
Edit: Tip: It's important when trying to diagnose these issues that you perform a throttle body adjustment each time you change something. I did this through my APR tune. The ECU will try to compensate for any abnormalities over time, so even if you manage to correct the issue the car may still act off at first. It's best to reset and then access.
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