So with a little time on my hands I went about installing as much of my Snow Performance WMI kit as I could this weekend. I did it in chunks so as not to get bored or lose the dexterity in my fingers. Some of the things you have to do are killers.
This kit, whilst very friendly in terms of instructions is not an easy kit to install. On top of what the kit comes with I probably spent at least another $150 on switches, relays, triggers, heat shrink, mounting plates/brackets. It's not simply a case of opening the box and following the instructions. I've no idea what a workshop would charge to install something like this but it wouldn't be cheap.
Here's some photos of the process and a little commentary. If you have any questions post them up and I'll do my best to answer them for you. At this stage we're not finished installing and the car won't be running WMI until we've exhausted every option to try and run an 11 on pump gas.
Here's where it begins. In order to run the cables through the fire wall and under the shifter pretty much everything has to come out. Whilst not a tough job it's a bit of a pain in the ass:
Then you have to make a loom to run from the engine bay to the shifter or wherever you want to have the LED's and the activation switch. The LED's let you know if the bottle is dry (RED) and when it's reached the pre determined boost pressure for activation (GREEN)
Making the loom
Here's where my boost feed for my gauge goes through and the three wires for the WMI gear that's inside the car
The LED's in the factory button location
Trying to make the loom as factory looking as possible. It's the black cable on the RHS of the battery box
That's pretty much where I'm up to. I wired up the relay and ran the cables but until the pump is installed there's not much else I can do. Installing the throttle plate is a bit of a job as well and much easier on a hoist and probably with the front bar off, again.
Stay tuned, should get interesting from here.